Jump to content

CaptnKush

Registered Users Plus
  • Posts

    263
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by CaptnKush

  1. Hmmm. Well I have never gotten soot from the 4627 unless the candle was melted mid point or lower in jar and the wick was dancing or I didn't trim the wick. I still get the wet spots like you describe but not often. They are little tiny bubbles .  I only seem to get them in the mason jars right below the lid threads and but not in the tumblers. I have been pouring anywhere between 160-180 with heated jars. Htp is my wick of choice, sometimes lx for the 4627.

  2. Any of you 4630 users also tried 4627? If so, is there any difference other than one is slab form? I currently love 4627 for both candles by itself and mixing with soy. Jar adhesion and scent throw is the best, but I am kinda getting tired of scooping out of the box.

  3. Does Etsy give you an app for automatically figuring shipping for you or do you just have to incorporate the cost into your price like Frostbeard?

    When I said Frostbeard was overpriced I didn't realize shipping was included. After that was pointed out I think their price is decent. Isn't it supposed to be that double the price of what it cost you to make the candle is your wholesale price and triple it for retail unless you think its worth $100 like some luxury candles lol?  Etsy prices are all over the place. It really makes it hard to be competitive. If you are happy with your profit at $23 then leave it then slowly raise it when you get a ton of sales.   Gratz on having your own shop.

                                     

     

  4. 35 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

    C3 is similar in heat/cool behavior as far as sink holes, etc.

    c3 has a distinctive odor to it that I never liked. 444 was great until the factory move fiasco. If we could trust 444 would never have moisture/cracking/etc issues again I think it’s much better than C3. 

     

    C3 is harder to burn than 444 also imo.  Needs a bigger wick and is slightly “dirtier” if not wicked well.

     

    i moved to c1 and like it better than C3 in all honesty. It’s not perfect, but better. 

    Interesting. So far I have not had the problems you listed with 444, maybe I got a good batch or maybe because I blend a small amount of 4627 with it.  Thank you.

  5. On 6/3/2019 at 10:03 AM, CandleRush said:

    Ahh, sink holes!

     

    I have never had any using Northwoods coconut wax including my blend with 464. I do pour very cool as TT mentioned.

     

    I pour at 110 for straight coconut wax (Northwoods) and for my 50/50 blend with 464. Not one sink hole! Hope this helps! I cure 2 plus weeks, testing earlier won’t give you best results. I know their web sight states differently, hence, lots of testing!🌸

     

     

    Was gonna just post this. I also pour at these temps with 444/coco and no sink holes. Only slight dip on surface. I am 75/25. And so far no shrinkage in jar. I also heated the jar before pour.

     

    Question for TallTayl. I know you use the c-3, how different is it compared to the 444?

  6.   CBL 133

    Melting Temperatures: 175° F (+/-5°F)
    Pouring Temperatures: 145-150° F (+/-10°F)
    Fragrance Loads: 3-10% Higher fragrance percentages need to be tested
    Cooling: Ambient (70-75°F)
    Congealing point (ASTM D938) at 125-133F.
    Wick Recommendation: RRD, ECO, CD & HTP Series

     

    igi 4627

    Wax Type Paraffin
    Appearance Smooth, Opaque
    Max Fragrance 12% or 2oz./lb.
    Applications Container / Tealight
    Pour temp 180° (+/-5°)
    Oil Content .4
    Melt Point 125°
    Prop 65 Warning Required No

     

  7. 2 hours ago, TallTayl said:

     

     

    reluctantly adding glass this year to intro coconut wax. If coconut did as well in tins I’d just do tins for all. Shipping is easier and much cheaper for tins. 

     

    I only offer one size of each. Tried multiple sizes and it took too long (and cost tooo much)  to test and merchandise everything. 

    Which coconut wax did you find to be the best?

  8. 30 minutes ago, The Candle Nook said:

    I’ve been thinking about a presto pot because I’m tired of the double boil method I have been using....(think this part is a stupid question but here goes...) what do you use to get the wax from the presto pot to your pouring pitcher?  I’m sure there are a million different things you could use ...lead me somewhere please!

    Just make it yourself, its real easy. If you can't then there are plenty of places that sell them already made.

    • Thanks 1
  9. I love this wax. Very elegant looking. So far it has really good HT. Cold throw is ok, a little on the low side. Definitely burns hot.  Keep that wick trimmed.  I have been using CD and HTP wicks and having good luck so far. Tried blending with a little soy but didn't see any improvement doing that. One thing to note, is that it doesn't have the great glass adhesion that Candle Science claims. I would recommend jars that arent transparent because no matter what temp I poured, by the next morning there were wet spots. I even cleaned each jar thoroughly and heated in oven and still, no avoiding the wet spots unless you have some kind of temperature controlled storage. It would be nice if IGI would let us know percentages of Paraffin and Coconut. Last note, this wax still needs to cure about 2 weeks.

    • Like 1
  10. 3 hours ago, Trappeur said:

    That is great.   Looks like you have a great work area for candles....I wish I had something like that with all the candles I make...

     

    Trappeur

    Ahahaha, I wish that was my work area. I just snagged that pic off the net because it was easier than taking a pic and loading it on computer:D  But I do have a similar bun rack to that one.

×
×
  • Create New...