soapermom

I have loved throw in just about every peaks I have tried in j223. I have been very pleased.

WSP version throws great in J223, I also use it for B&B

well you could try it, but adding anything natural, can cause a chemical change in your scent. I tried a lot of natural coloring, like beets, coffee, tea,etc etc.. some changed the scent to something just awful.

I never freeze either. I never completely melt my shea, I get it to just very soft, shortening like consistancy.

I don't use the freezer. Go have a beer and come back and check then another and it should be just about done. That's about the amount of time it takes for mine to get perfectly whipped.

so you want to make body butter with No butters...

you are gonna have to play with your ratios of ewax,stearic acid and/or beeswax.

You can get a thick lotion with no butters, but without them its hard to get the feel of one, without going to more specialized chemicals and processes(this is just in my own experiences thus far) you can whip your thick lotion and get a very body butter like feel to them, but I haven't been able to stabilize this for a long shelf life without a butter in them.. they ultimately lose volume on me.

Hopefully someone with more experience can help you out more.

IMPO, based on my personal likes and dislikes, the best lotions & creams...have a butter, as opposed to all oils, to give a lasting moisture..the key is usually to find the right percentage of butters vs water and oils to have lasting moisture & emolliant qualities as oppsed to just plain greasiness.

I like to use about 15% butter.

I never use ceytl or stearic. only Ewax or liquid poly. I love liquid poly!

I am getting better at subbing and changing recipes.

its works!

I am a chef by trade ,so I have tons of pastry bags, I use those to fill bottle with lotion.

A lady said this.. i am wondering if anyone has any info as to if this is fact.

The reason the Hard coconut oil is not used is because it will clog your pores due to the abundance of "lauric and mryistic fatty acids" in the compsition of the hard coconut oil.

what is you opinions on this? I am having a debate and want a broad range of opinions.

I went AROUND and AROUND with this... I joined a swap and found everyone's soaps were similiar to mine.... they melted away faster than regular soap. I wanted my M&P to last as long as my Irish Spring and it WON'T. No one ever told me that so I racked my brains wondering what they were doing different than me. Glycerin is a by-product of soap making and highly moisturizing. I have added everything that soapermom has suggested and I'm not sure if I see a HUGE difference but their is some. HTH

no, no huge difference but some.. and they last more than a week?? I am not getting that, maybe she needs to change her base? I know commercially made glycerin soaps last longer than MP, I wish I knew what stabilizers they used...

you can add some beeswax or stearic to extend the life, CP embeds will also extend it a bit. you can counter the loss of lather with some things like castor oil and coconut oil and I found...even though they say it doesnt work.. liquid foam boosters will, they won't pearlize in MP but they do help boost the foam.

I do this too.. just "buy stuff".. my husband told me he hopes police never enter our home.. cause my laundry room looks like a meth lab:laugh2:

That's the one! I'd like to find something with that texture and thickness. Is it possible? How hard is it to make your own? I don't want to get into testing my life away.

not hard at all, and you can make a pretty close dupe..theres nothing too horribly unusual in there.. and prob some things you could sub out...

well they are both solubilizers and emulsifiers... the castor one..is Poly Oxyl 40 is a multitasker.. it improves water soluability, boosts foam, emulsifies, and improves clarity, they use it in a lot of vitamins...

I know the Trideceth-10 is a phosphate emulsifying agent and thats about all I know about it

I believe the one from Hallmark is emulsified. It resembles a thick cream. I haven't tried it, just noticed it while browsing.

It can be regional what they carry... our hallmarks have some local stuff in them.. I have seen The Body Shop and Backyard products in there.. theirs are just emulsified... just very thick lotions and creams..

thats still a decent price at 8 oz.... mine doesnt have a "brand" it just has Hawaiian macadamia oil..clear bottle .green label.

I got some from there the other day, but mine are only 8 oz bottles:undecided Still a good deal though!

Hmm?

If you look at this thread: http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16965

Someone was telling me to use the SL, to add to the Lye solution, and to use it at 1 oz. per pound of oils. That's what they've done and it's been successful.

I'm not sure what to do now?

this is the first time I have noticed your screen name and I am cracking up:laugh2:

I picked up 16 oz bottles of cold pressed macadamia oil@ BIG LOTS.. for $2.50!!

I think in converting to weight measure I miscalculated my butters. even after I added sugar it stayed a lil flat looking.. soooo on a hunch... I threw in some softened shea I had sitting on counter... and BAM!!! it whipped right up in like 3 minutes:laugh2:

I'm telling you, do what I did, prepare your oils the day before, or even a few hours before, and let them set up, and THEN whip it, it only took mine like 3 minutes to double in size and look just like cool whip.

I am a MP fanatic.. I have done just about everything I could and was told I couldn't with it:D I have bought and tried CP and other lye formulas and all I can say is while I love my MP and think I pushed and broke the limits of it to make the best MP possible.... CP just rocks...

I think I am too impatient for this:tongue2:

you can.. theres nothing in whipped shea that will hurt you to ingest( unless you ad some freaky posionous oil?).. up to adding FO, but the chances of something food related tainting my bath and body stuff keeps me from using my kitchen aide too much for that stuff