wthomas57

I have but that requires retesting as well which is an enourmous pain and cost. Also if I have to start adding more fragrance just to get the results i was getting before... ill look elsewhere. I mostly use a parasoy so Ive been fine. However, I did aggressively tackle the new eco waxes... which are just abysmal in my opinion. Thats for a different discussion. Just going to have to be done 100% soys for now. Too many issues

Either a freaking boat load of black liquid dye or dye blocks.

HT has taken a big hit with all these wax issues as well. At least in my experience. 

I haven't noticed any improvements... but its the problem with soy right now, its untrustworthy ya know.

I'm not sure Ill ever feel comfortable with it. I didn't really like 464 to begin with though. Lol.

I miss CB-Advanced

@Dorothy Mantooth   Its super hard to compare because there are sooo many variables. FO's can affect burn time, wick type affects burn time, wick size, jar size and style, wax of course, etc.  All things similar though most soys are going to outlast most parrafins simply because soy burns slower. So as a general rule of thumb soy is going to burn longer. But that isn't always going to be true.

9 hours ago, Jcandleattic said:

My 16oz apothecary paraffin candles can last up to about 120+ hours depending on how they are burned. 115 is not an unusual time for a "large" candle. In fact, I would think a 22oz candle would last a lot longer than 115 hours. More like 200+ hours. 

It also depends if you are single wicking or double wicking and fragrance load. But you are right.. Iv had my large apothecarys go over 200 hours before. I always assume thought that customers will not burn exactly like they should so I estimate lower than that... especially for conversational purposes.

10 minutes ago, Flicker said:

Vybar inhibits mottle. They likely just use a straight paraffin with no additives other than perhaps mineral oil. Their candles burn very consistent to mine made with IGI 1343 or 2281 with no additives at all.

Actually vybar 343 enhances mottling in mottled waxes. That is the vybar they would be using... same as i use.

The two vybars that inhibit mottling lime you are referring to are vybar 103 and vybar 260. 

I add a little to my large jars which are my mottled parrafin candles. You almost have to with it because straight or mottling waxes do not hold much FO without it.

But no, its purpose for me is nothing to do with slowing down the burn time (would be a cool bonus if its true though). I use it to slightly bump up fragrance binding with straight parrafin (pre-blended waxes do not need it). 

Well you cant really compare apples to apples with different jars. Bigger jars may be double or triple wicked for example, narrower jars keep more heat inside the jar which aids in how quickly wax is melted and used.

My large jar does about 100+ hours but I dont have a soy version of that candle so I cant tell you how long it would burn. 

MY parasoy tumblers burn around 50  and are 9oz jars. and soys are about 60 or so.

But, keep in mind... I like many others listed either a range of hours or "Up to xxx hours". Its best to list hours based off recommended burning instructions. So that's what I do.

But soy, I cant answer your specific question about 22oz burn time because I dont have one. Burn rates increase as you get lower in the jar so you can't always just assume double the size equals double the burn time. But its a descent place to start

21 hours ago, Dorothy Mantooth said:

Apologies if this has been discussed, I couldn't find it in my searches. At Walmart today I noticed they had large Yankee candles. I've only been in the Yankee store one time and I don't own any. The warning sticker says something like 115 hours. Is that because of Palm wax? I know I don't have a great candle yet, but my soys are 15-20 hours. I know my 8oz tin is a lot smaller. I've made some 4630 that lasted 25+. What's realistic with soy 8oz tin with 5oz wax?

Others said the same.. but they use parrafin, not palm. They could very well use an additive to slow down the burn a bit... I know for almost certainty that they use vybar but Id be willing to guess that's not all.

And I do feel their burn times are about right. My all parrafins last about the same amount.

My parasoy last a bit longer and my all soys last the longest. However, the strength of the HT also follows the same order.

Yah that is crazy. I would let supplier know and get a replacement.

yah I dont think the amount you are using has anything to do with it. It can hold a heck of a lot more than 6% without issue.

If you haven't already, heat to 185... add FO at that temp, pour around 160+.  Make sure to blend thoroughly. Its a dense wax, 

so you really need to blend well.

I dont currently have a photo but I can assure you it doesn't have what yours do. They look like just nice smooth tops. Like a blend og 6006 and cb-advanced.

And I tested with levels of 8%, 10% and 12%.

I am guessing you have a bad batch as well. 

I have obviously expressed my displeasure so far with this wax for several reasons. However, never once have I had the issues you are having with the tops. And never have I had oil drops or seeping out. How much are you adding? What temps? Where you getting your oils? I have tried various tests to replicate your issues with the tops and I'm just not getting the results you are. So I am kinda lost why you are having this issue? I haven;t heard anyone else with these problems either or I would chat with them as well. Now fragrance and issues wicking fragrance combos... I get those for sure like many others.

Is it real humid where you are? Any chance, you may have gotten some water in your wax by mistake?

Do you have a dehumdifier in your area? If not, Id recommend getting one and retesting.

50 minutes ago, Crafty1_AJ said:

Has anyone tried wicking with RRD series?

Yes its what i started with. I have teasted MANY wicks including the following - RRD, CD, HTP, LX, Premier, Zinc, Wood, ECO, Paper, etc.

Several wicks work. The wicks are not the issue with this wax. The issue is the fragrance oils and the wax itself. Many.. MANY fragrance oils simply are not compatible.

Over half of mine easily. Either horrible throw, clumping at base of wicks, terrible burns. Plus this wax smokes like no other.... when melting, when burning in finished candle.

Its awful. 

The ONLY successes I have had are that it bruns clean and super easy to use.

I doubt ill even continue with this wax just becauae of the incessant smoking after you extinguish the candles. They smoke TONS... way more than normal candles and it lasts a long time. I have had customer testers give feedback and the first thing ther all mention is the smoke.  I notice it too.  Wick type doesnt matter. Its the wax.  There is somethingin it that causes this,  probably same thing that causes the smoking vapors when your simply melting it .

Plus,  too many scents dont work. Unfortunately many of those are my best sellers

18 minutes ago, Jeana said:

 

What wax issues? I hope not mine. I mix a few to make my own blend. I have a lot of experience with many types of wicks. (performa, hemp, lx, rrd, square braid, premier, cd, csn, cdn, htp, paper, zinc) I typically gravitate towards HTP wicks, but I get tired of the curling posture. I've tried some of the cored wicks, but the ones from Peak were the best I've tried. I'm even struggling with retesting my HTP scents too. Not all HTPs are created equal. I found a supplier that has the same manufacturer of HTPs that Peak did, but they still seem to burn a little different.  

Check out some of the other threads... its been well documented here. Been LOTS of wax issues,  mostly with soy going back several months now. Most soy candle makers been suffering from issues and changes with the wax. I am not referring to Ecosoya change of their soy (although that has caused its own set of problems). I am referring to just overall soy issues and consistency. I don't want turn this thread into that, but you can easily find more info in the other topics.

If you use soy, you are probably effected though.

Regarding the wicks, what is your reasoning for not liking the curl? I find you either have to deal with a curl or with bigger mushrooms. Personal preference I guess. For example, my favorite are zincs... except the mushrooms. Then I like htp/cd, etc.... except the curl .Lol

@Jeana. What wax or blend are u using (if you dont mind me asking). Might be able to offer some suggestions. 

Yah, couple that with all the wax issues going on, mainly soy.... tough right now to haveto test more 

5 minutes ago, NightLight said:

My first tester was great. THought finally a no Brainer production wax. Tried multiple scents from candle suppliers and had more misses with crater, oil spots that good ones. The good ones meaning 2 fragrances worked out of a dozen plus experiments with 210 - 220.

 

I have about ten kinds of wax on hand and poured many candles and the new Ecosoya waxes need work I feel with consistency.

 

I would like to know if other people have problems with fragrance. My control candles without fragrance are perfect. The ones with fragrance are problematic - I tried adding at 180 and higher as suggested online at 200.

 

 

Well, again... ive had no issues with tops like you have described. My issues have been many fragrance oils having poor throw and terrible wicking.

And the smoking is obnoxious and awful which i think everyone has experienced. 

the finished candles also smoke like a chimney when you extinguish the flame. WAY more smoke than a regular candle. And it smokes for a long time after. Pretty terrible

1 hour ago, NightLight said:

This is my experience with the wax.

i have tried 2120 and the 220

 

Color of was is light beige.

Easy handling because of the pellets.

I have had very good to excellent adhesion on all my testers, and scent throw has been good.

No problem with wicks I use cd's.

This wax smokes in pot before getting it to 180 degrees which is off putting.

I tried adding Fragrance at 180 and up to 200 and still got same results of oily spots and craters.

 

My biggest issue is I poured over a dozen testers with candle fragrances from many companies, not with fragrances from

 Ecosoya - 

Results oily spots and puddles on tops of candles, craters.

Out of all the tester fragrances only 2 met my standards of beautiful smooth top. The other were unusable.

My control candle was beautiful without Fragrance - smooth shiny top, good adhesion, easy burn.

 

I do not think the is wax is ready for prime time - Ecosoya must get this wax to be compatible with fragrances, as they cannot expect

people to test and test to find compatible scents that don't leave craters and oil spots on top.

 

Will be going back to my old blend until they work the kinks out. 

Was disappointed in the release of these waxes - they needed to wait.

Interesting the different results we are getting.... yet mostly drawing the same conclusions. I have had ZERO issues with nice tops or fragrance integration. My candles look perfect. My issue has been HT on many scents that worked well for me in Advanced and my 6006. And wicking on many scents. My FO's get clumpy wicks and do not perform (regardless of wicks). I have worked with several other chandeliers having the same wicking issue with many fragrances. 

But again, the overall consensus has been the same. The wax just isn't a good option. Clean burning and easy to use, that is about all that is good about it. 

Ya thats true... a lot of factors. 

Also depends on type snd width of the wick

Thought I would throw in my two cents here.

I had no problems described above with this wax using clamshells. Mine broke apart just fine. It was actually pretty fantastic.

So... let's figure out the different so we know what factor may have caused your issues. I have two guesses, either the lot you are using or fragrance load.

1) Where did you get your Q230?

2) How much fragrance did you use? I tried 10% and had excellent results.

Community Candle has some but they are pricey. And bulk discounts are pretty much non existant.

You could check fillmore container, but I am not sure. You are right, metal lids at a good price are tough to fine. Specifically for particular jars.

Unfortunately, I do not have any good suggestions at the moment. Ill keep my eyes open though.

Yah unfortunately that isn't them. Those are just tumblers which you can get almost any supplier. The poster looking for larger 2 or 3 wick jars