wthomas57
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Posts posted by wthomas57
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7 minutes ago, Gary in Canada said:
Thanks wthomas...I would like to try a parasoy....i think you use the 6006...but nobody up here carries it. Our choices are soy, beeswax, or paraffin...no blends. I have bought some "soy" candles just to compare to my own...and they seem to throw off a great scent...I don't know if its the way Im making them, or they have discovered the perfect formula...but It's driving me freaking crazy trying to figure it out..lol.
I use 6006 in about 1/3 of my stuff.
Those i jist call blends because they are only 30% soy.
Everything else i blend myself, other candles and wax melts.
I also use mottling parrafin in some jars.
The higher the soy... definitely less throw than parrafin. Apples to apples of course. You can get them similar by adding more fo or blending.
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3 minutes ago, Gary in Canada said:
I appreciate your honesty kandledrazy... I have played around with pure soy for a while now, but just can't seem to get it to the quality of those "pure" soy candles I have bought..just makes me wonder if some of them are "cheating"?? Maybe they aren't, but the more I've got into it..I am REALLY curious how some of them get excellent throws out of "100% soy.. I thought I would be almost there with the hype of the Q210...and now Im back to square one... I guess I better stick with my day job..lol....
Some added like 15% FO. Which is crazy and not advised.
Most uae using a parasoy. If its over 50% soy, you can call it soy. Just cant call it all natural, or organic, or 100% spy, etc.
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ECO soot too much
LX mushroom too much
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Won't work for tarts.... too soft. Its a container wax. You could try bending it with a pillar wax for tarts though.
And wood wicks wont help a ton. The problem is the wax, not the wicks unfortunately.
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I even tried blending it with 6006 at 50:50 to try and make it work..... barely helped at all. :/
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On 10/5/2017 at 3:23 PM, ellajoan said:
We have a possible opportunity to get into a few local boutiques ( a small local chain of 2 very popular fashion shops). The shops have requested a line sheet w/ minimums and wholesale pricing. I have no idea what that is, but I'm guessing it's a catalog of our candles with how many we'd like to buy and at what price. I need some guidance in setting a wholesale price. Our candles are 9 oz, and our cost per candle is $3.20-$3.40 each (biggest cost being shipping--dang it!). Are we undercutting if we charge $7.00 wholesale and give a suggested retail price of $12-$15? We are currently selling at a "booth rent" shop for $12 each or 2/$20. But these shops are much higher end, and this will be wholesale. Just needing some guidance. Hubby thinks we are underpricing. Picture of candle is below, just for reference..
Are your candles 9oz jars or net wt 9oz? It makes a difference. To me they look like 9oz jars tbat hpld approximately 7oz of wax. Is that the case or am i mistaken on the jars? Theyappear tp be like jars i use that are 9oz jars nut hold 7oz fill.
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1 hour ago, Venetti said:
@Ajah I got the eco sample pack and in the IGI 6006, it soots like crazy.
It soots like crazy but ECOs soot like crazy in 6006. Dont use eco with 6006
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14 minutes ago, Flicker said:
I do this different than any of you from what I can tell.
When making soy and doing layers, I pour at the congealing point of the wax. Basically as soon as it's poured, it's almost set. I wait about 1/2 hour so its solid but warm and then do my repour the same way, at the congealing point and it sets up right away, leaving a nice smooth, flat top. For 415 the congealing point is about 97*, but I go by look. At the point where the wax is starting to form crystals on the top (about 110*,) I start swirling it around in the pot until it becomes the consistency of an ICEE starting to warm up and then pour into room temp jars.
I can't say I don't get wet spots, they happen, but I can tell you my layered soy look perfect every time!
This is good advice. Like I said, I do NOT use 464 as I do not like it. So my general suggestions was not for 464
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I approach this a bitter different than Jcanleattic I think.
I used to do the other layer when there was a skin but not fully hardened. Caused too much bleeding of the other wax/color/scent, etc. And it was more of a blended line, where I like a little more distinction on my layers.
Obviously, it depends on the wax your using, pour temps, etc..
But what I generally do now is this: (assuming 2 layers for this example)
1) First pour - let set and harden
2) top off/repour the first layer if needed
3) Do second pour (this pour needs to be hotter because it will cool quicker which means may cause sinkhole and require another pour
4) If you DO need to fix or repour second layer, do it after first one is basically set.
Personally, I try NOT to repour/2nd pour the top layer. Instead I cover them to cool as slowly as possible and then hit with heat gun if needed to fix tops.
All in all, I have much better luck doing additional layers after lower layer is hard though. Better layer lines and way less sinkage issues on additional layers.
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6006 or Clarus 3020 or 3022
I think 6006 throws a bit better, 3022 burns a bit cleaner.
Neither are that easy to wick in my opinion.
I use both a lot though.
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2 hours ago, TallTayl said:
I'd also send the feedback directly to the manufacturer. Too often the retailers fail to keep posted any negative reviews. Nor do they pass along feedback to their suppliers. So the info is lost early in the process, and nothing changes.
I've also done this.
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5 hours ago, Nickie said:
You should certainly do a review of your experience about these waxes on the site in which they were purchased. Suppliers and the manufacturer needs to hear real experiences from expert candle makers and not just the reviews of those being paid or those selling the waxes.
Oh, I have.
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12 minutes ago, Bia said:
I've had difficulty wicking 6006 in large containers.
I've also discovered that most wick charts suggest CD wick sizes that are way to big. Like break the glass too big. And like you said I also don't really like the leaning curve.
I hate ecos in 6006. I don't really like LX, but sometimes they work. I've tried paper core, hemp, htp - all huge flames and soot. I'm resisting trying zincs bc I wanted to avoid metal in my wicks....
I also wondered before this discussion about premiers and rrd's. I was skeptical bc not that many suppliers offer them... Figured there's not much demand for a reason.
I also hated working with 4627, the vaseline, break your wrist block ;-) but now it comes in slabs.
Wicking large containers - double wicking, etc works like a charm. And cuts down on mushrooms and sooting. I use different wax blends depending on my jars as I offer different "collections". So, while I dont use 6006 in most of my larger jars, it works just fine double or triple wicking and many different wicks work well to do that (HTP, RRD, Zinc, LX)
I agree on CDs. too big, too sooty, uneven burns.
Paper core works fine, but mushroom quickly.Premiers are hit or miss. Work well as far as burn goes, but with my FOs they get really sooty.
I agree on ECOs too.. terrible in 6006.
Zincs are most consisten by far in my opinion. Yes, there are drawbacks, but still work well.
As far as RRDs, you can find them many places. Premiers, less so.
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Just now, Bia said:
Do you also make candles with 4627? I've been making them and using LXs and have worked well. The combo 4627 or 4630 and LX seem so less problematic than 6006. Is it the soy that's complicating our lives? I do prefer the visual appearance of 6006... but 6006 seems more "problematic" ;-)
I dont really have complications with 6006 overall. I do not like 4627 or 4630. Smokey, sooty, and I hate working with it. 4630 is bad about wetspots even from the getgo. I dont get hung up on wetspots really... but why deal with it more than i have to. I just prefer the look and burn of 6006 over both 4627 and 4630... and them combined. 6006 has been my main wax for sometime and still currently my most used.
Maybe I need to read back some more, but waht major complications are you having with 6006?
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It is true. 6006 is mostly parrafin (70/30). Thats what i meant by being opposite of the calrus they were referrring to (which is mostly soy)
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31 minutes ago, TallTayl said:
Oh, and when you re-tab the cut off lengths, keep track of the bottom. RRD wicks are directional.
Yes... fact
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Id start with a 50. I've never used them in 464. I totally 2 use 40 or 47 but sinde 464, id wick up a bit to 50 and try. Also, if it helps, i cut mine in half and retab to get more wicks.
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I have bought from several suppliers. Most of the time I have not seen or tested any different on the same wicks from different suppliers. I was paranoid about it for a while but never really amounted to anything. I have had a FEW that were a bit off compared to each other, but i think it had more to do with the wax coating than anything else. Also, I had some wicks sent that were not properly labeled with correct size. That's a bad deal.
For the most part, I use a combo of CandleScience, lonestar, and CandleWic for my wicks depending on what I need. You are correct, none seem to carry them all. Ive seriously considered becoming a supplier of just wicks and having EVERYTHING... a one stop shop for them because its frustrating. Lol
I use premiers sparingly and when I need those, I get them from Flaming Candle.
About to start testing CSNs a bit more, and there are hard to find... so SouthWest Candle Supply will be the place for me for those wicks.
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I/We have mostly been talknig about after the candle is extinguished... not just when melting in the melters.
Every customer/tester who has used candles made out of this wax report the same problems. Its REALLY bad
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My issues are nothing to do with a bad batch. Ive tested several different lots/batches from a few suppliers.
The issue is the wax as many have documented pretty thoroughly. Yes, there are a few successful tests... i had some too.
But its all completely irrelevant, because no customer is going to be happy with the amount of smoking this wax does.
Customers may buy initally, but they wont keep coming back. This wax does not stand up anywhere close to most other waxes
in my opinion... even on the tests that have been "successful"
And.. i know who you are referring to in Quebec (I believe). Be careful what reviews you take to heart. Many are paid and/or given freebies
for these reviews. Also, someone using this wax a lot andhaving "success" I would be very curious the amount of their testing, scents, etc.
And like i said... may testers have paid no mind to what the candle does after being extinusuihed (or they dip the wick in the wax). Which is totally fine,
but most customers do not do that. And this wax smokes like crazy via the wicks. Heck, it smokes when melting too. There is even warnings not to breath in
any of the vapors.. yikes. No thanks.
Trust me.. I was REALLY wanting this wax to work. If anyone was going to give it the benefit of the doubt, it would have been me. Hence, why I kept testing and testing
and testing. ill never use it... unless its changed.
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No problem!
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Just overall didn't perform as well. More sooting and carbon buildup then others. They weren't the worst by any means, but not my favorite either.
Sometimes they worked well, but in most cases even the zincs worked better for me than LX.
What I DO like about LX is the night tight flame. But I just had better luck (most of of the time) with the following wicks:
Zinc, HTP, RRD
Next would be CD and Paper Core just a tad above Premier and LX
Ones I did not like with 6006 were:
ECO
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2 hours ago, CHB said:
I use LX wicks with success in IGI6006 with the exception of some of the heavier oils. I don’t get much soot even when I don’t trim the wicks. I find they work really well in my container, but then again I only use one container. What % of fragrance oil are you using and what size wick? Might you be overwicked? The reason I ask is because two different suppliers recommended an LX 18 and 20 to me and I found my go-to wick to be an LX14.
Ovrall, LX is among my least favorite with this wax....but still have them in use for a few scents.
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Agreed... worst wax I own
Best para-soy blend for container candles?
in General Candle Making Discussions
Posted
I have not personally ever thought that parrafin was "easier" to work with myself. Its easier to wick, sure... but other than that.. I dont think its easier. Parrafin cools much quicker making cleanup more difficult. Many parrafins shrink much more than soy requiring multiple pours... I dont have to repour any soy that I use.
The REASON, though, that I do soy candles too is simple. Customers want it. At first I didn't worry about it as when I first started people didn't ask or care about the type of candle as much. Now... well, I cant do an event without about 1 of every 4 customers asking if they are soy candles. They dont know why they are asking and to be perfectly honest, they aren't educated at all. But that doesn't matter, they want soy because its the big craze right now. I provide what customer want.. or at least try to. In fact, I can barely get into a new store without them first asking if my candles are soy. Lol. Just the way it is right now. People tend to care much more now than they used to. Regardless if those concerns are misguided.
But to clarify on adding soy to your blend. If the soy is less than 50%, I just call it a blend or "with soy". If its over 50%, you can call it soy from what I understand. Gotta love American regulations right.... ridiculous. But.. live within the rules.
In my soy candles, for what they lack in throw compared to parrafin.. I just use a higher FO load. Plus they make up for it by burning a bit cleaner and slower.