Jump to content

siberia

Registered Users Plus
  • Posts

    319
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by siberia

  1. Hey there! I've used Ecosoya's VB quite a bit and really like it a lot. Ignore their pouring temp advice. Heat to 170-175, add FO and dye if you like and stir like crazy. As the wax cools, stir less often and more gently. Let the wax cool down to 110-115 degrees. Pour very slowly/evenly into your molds. This should solve your air pockets. :)

  2. I wondered if that was the case. To me IGI 1343 is such a versatile wax. I can do just about anything with it using the various additives, temp variables, etc. I like flexibility as well as versatility when it comes to paraffin's. When it comes to soy, I want consistency. Still looking for that one. lol

    Thanks for answering my question. I was about to start another thread for fear that it was lost in the OP's discussion.:wave:

  3. topofmurrayhill

    Candlwic's

    4045.

    Really? Can you give a bit more detail as to why you favor CW4045 over IGI1343?

    My 2 cents, I've ordered quite a bit over the years from Candlewic and have never had a problem. However, I do agree that communicating with them through email vs the phone is much more effective (works for me as that is my preferred method of business communication:yes:).

    Kimberly

    ]Anyone who's fond of IGI 1343 would do better to trade it in for
  4. I too use the AK unrefined shea and only use EO's when I make a whipped butter and I really don't add that much. The last batch I made, I think I used 2 drops of lavender EO and 1 drop of geranium EO per ounce and you can smell it over the shea.

    This is exactly what I do as well. I think EO's are really the way to go with shea because it only takes a little bit. AK's unrefined shea is really very nice and does not smell bad at all.

    Kimberly

  5. This is definitly one of those issues where everyone will probably come up with a different number of drops pp. Testing is the key. Start with one drop of dye, pull out a small amount of wax and let it harden. If it's not dark enough you can always add another drop. Oh, and keep notes. lol

    I use Bitter Creek liquid dyes when making parrafin candles. Here's a IGI 1343 candle that has violet (3 drops pp) and yellow (1 drop pp):

    65520414_0a451b8bba.jpg

    Kimberly

  6. Here are the results of the testing I did on that particular jar.

    Wax: EcoSoya CB Advanced, no additives

    FO: 1 oz pp of wax (4 different types, light to heavy)

    Dye: 1 drop liquid dye (Bitter Creek brand) pp of wax

    Jar: Fairway Elevation 8 oz & 16 oz

    Wicks tried that failed:

    RRD55 - flame height too small; never reached full melt pool; large amt. of hangup.

    LX 20, 24, 28 - flame height too small on the 20 & 24, too big on the 28; never reached full melt pool; large amt. of hangup, mushroomed like crazy.

    HTP 126 - flame height too small; never reached full melt pool; large amt. of hangup.

    The winners:

    HTP 1212 - perfect fit for the light FO's. Great melt pool, no mushrooming and no hangup. However, this wick did fail on the heavier FO's with hangup and small meltpool.

    HTP 1312 - works beautifully on the heavier FO's. Perfect melt pool, no mushrooming and no hangup. This wick could be used in the lighter FO's but I am picky about flame height. IMO, the flame was too tall in unscented or light FO situations.

    Kimberly

  7. Are you using the Elevation jars from Fairway? That's the jar that I use and it was a bugger to figure out the wick. I was determined to single wick that bad boy and I finally succeeded. However, my wicking advice might not help you because I use soy for my containers.

    <Clinton>I feel your pain</Clinton>. Wicking issues really stink! :confused:

    Kimberly

×
×
  • Create New...