ADSoy

Does anyone know the technique for making gift soaps that are permantently imaged? They're sometimes referred to as "Forever Soaps". The image is somehow adhered to the top of the soap bar and will not wash off and will last the life of the soap bar. I realize that I could just use a clear waterproof sealer or polymer but that just doesn't seem too safe for skin. The images on the soaps that I've seen are very thin so I'm assuming they're decals. There is no evidence of brush marks or an edge where a sealer has been applied. One company says the technique is patented but then there are 3 companies that I know of that make it - so what's up with that? I was wondering if there is any natural ingredient used in soap or candlemaking that might be the secret. Any help is appreciated! Linda

I hope you'll share your results once you develop your candle line. I've been wanting to find time to experiment with EO's too. Good luck and hope you have a speedy recovery. Linda

I recently noticed the same thing with a 3oz container. The wax stopped melting about 1/2 inch from the bottom. The wick was completely gone so I assumed the neck part of the wick tab is too tall. (ECO 2). Does that sound reasonable to anyone one? :undecided The wick size is correct MP, etc. Linda

I'm sure I have candle nose - no doubt about it. The informative post from Janet confirmed my suspicions as well. One curious thing I noticed last night. I lit a candle in the bedroom and about every 1/2 hour went in to test the throw. I couldn't smell anything! My husband could a little but not much. (We both make candles so his nose is not much better off than mine). Later I walked into the adjoining bathroom and the scent was wonderful in the bathroom! A similar thing happened once before when I had a candle burning in the living room and could smell it better in the back bedrooms than in the living room. So what's up with that? It's just the opposite of how a fireplace draws warm air from the adjoining rooms. Also, is there a rule of thumb of how many square feet a certain size candle will scent? Thanks again everyone. Linda

SOYA - how weird - just last night I was thinking just for curiosity sake I should test the MP temps. I've been having the same problem with hot throws. I use 9% FO with the 449 wax which gives a wonderful cold throw but can't seem to get a really nice hot throw. BTW I agree about the curing time. I had no idea that wicks consume some of the FO. I've tested ECO wicks and Premier 700's and results are the same as far as throw. So - can anyone suggest where I should go from here? I'm truly stumped. :undecided I want to smell the candle as it burns not after I extinguish the flame. I like all other aspects of the 449 so really don't want to change waxes. Any help is appreciated. Linda

Soy Blend: Golden Foods 449 Pour Temp: 145-165 with same results Wicks: Eco's and Premier 700's No dyes or additives Frosting not an issue Wet spots - pretend they're pretty Heat gun for rough tops

Thanks for sharing your tests. I think I'll try your formula just to see if my tops turn out smooth. If so, then it's the amount of FO that I'm using. I use oils from various suppliers but always in quantities of about 9-10% - that amount just seems to give me the cold and hot throws that I'm happy with. I like really fragrant candles. I'll post my results as soon as I have time to play. Linda

You have no idea what you're getting into! Ha - just kidding! I'm pretty new as well and this soy candlemaking thing is truly addicting. It's so satisfying when you actually make a candle that performs like you want it to. Good luck and have fun with it. Linda

Hi, I have been testing with the 449 for about 2 months now. Your results are opposite of mine. I can't get smooth tops without using the heat gun. After burning the surface is very smooth and glossy. I use about 10% FO and pour between 145 & 165. (Any of those temps give me the same darned sink hole tops). I don't use dye at this time. Wicks tested have been ECO's and Premier 700's - both leave same smooth tops after burning. WHAT IS YOUR SECRET TO POURING SMOOTH TOPS????? PLEASE, PLEASE SHARE:bow: I don't recall getting the frosty edge you mentioned so can't help you there. If you've read the threads for 449 you'll see that everyone seems to get differing results. Seems to be the nature of Soy in general. I think I could make candles in a different room in the same house and get different results. Candlemaking definately teaches - tests patience.:smiley2: I look forward to your smooth top secret. Linda

Hi and Welcome, I'm probably the least likely one to give advise because I'm only in my 2nd month of candle making but I'll give it my best shot. I've tested a little with C-3 (Cargill Container Blend) but not enough to give wick advise. There are so many variables to consider when wicking; first of all being which brand of wick you're using. When I purchased the C-3 the wholesale distributor (Lonestar) suggested using ECO wicks and they have a chart on their website for size suggestions. www.lonestarcandles.com I would suggest starting with your wax supplier - they should carry various brands of wicks and offer suggestions as to sizes. Mostly you will have to test, test, test. There is so much to learn about wicking and I learned so much from reading through the threads in this forum. If you post the size jars you're using and the brand of wicks I'm sure someone will jump on board and offer up their advise to at least put you in the right ball park. On one of the threads, I think the Premier one, I posted about testing wicks by testing different sizes in the same jar of wax. Sounds confusing I know. Check it out and if you can't find the thread I'll see if I can locate it for you. Good luck and don't give up. Linda

Jason at Golden Brands should be able to direct you to a distributor if there is one in your area. Jason@gfgb.com, www.gfgb.com.

John, Thanks for the info. I will definitely try timing myself. I pour pretty slow but still could be too fast. Today I read on another thread where several people set their candles on a heating pad to slow down the cooling from the bottom in order to give the tops time to cool slower. can't remember if they mentioned if the pad was warm or not - guess I need to check that out. I'm not much help with wicks as I've only used ECO's and Premier. Have had better luck with the Premiers but still testing to get the perfect combo for every FO and wax, jar, etc. Joe at www.wickit.net sent me a huge variety of wicks to test. I told him what size jars I was pouring, etc. and he sent wicks for those plus a pack of every other size available. It's been so helpful to have them to test with and I will definately order from him. His TOLL FREE number is 877-3WICKIT. Happy Pouring, Linda

Rookie, What kind of jars are you using? I can't figure out why I'm not getting smooth tops and you & others are I'm doing everything the same as you except just a little more FO. Surely that can't make that much difference (?) Maybe my jar is too deep - I should try pouring a squatty jar and see what happens. I did another pour yesterday at 150*-160*, 9% FO, room temp 72-75*, still had to do a 2nd pour because of sink holes. 2nd pour doesn't adhere to the sides-probably because of lower pour temp. I've tried placing my jars in a box and covering them to slow down the cooling but results are the same. I sure am glad I was introduced to the heat gun . Linda

I've been testing 3 waxes and have decided on one I like the best so I will test all the FO's that I plan to use. Some FO's seem more oily and some smell totally different when burned - it's just worth it to test them. Linda

Happy New Year Everyone! Here are my test results with the 449: 7 oz (2.5" dia) and 12 oz Metro jars (3" dia), 9% FO Poured at 140, 145, 150, 155, 160, & 165 - all came out with rough tops. Did a 2nd pour and still had rough tops. Cold and hot throws are great. For wicks, so far I like the Premier 765 for the 7 oz. and the 795 for the 12 oz. I'm still testing wicks as I'm still learning what is acceptable as far as melt pool size, mushrooms, residue, etc. Thinking that the 9% FO load could be the culprit for the rough tops I poured several 12 oz. at 6%. The tops are nice and smooth except for a couple of holes which the heat gun took care of. While this is fanstastic the throws are really weak. so I'll just keep on testing and hopefully I'll get it right - and soon :rolleyes2. I also tried adding 402 Soy at 5% and 10% but the tops were even more rough. Linda

I haven't tried a glue gun or hot glue for that matter but it sounds like a real hassle. I'm having trouble with glue dots releasing during a pour - not always but sometimes and it's so frustrating I thought about trying a glue pot and dipping the wick tab into the glue but not sure if that's any less hassle than a glue gun. Sounds like someone could make some money if they could come up with a solution. Hmmmm

I'm really new to this too (5 weeks) and know right where you're coming from. :highfive: A lot of people start out with a kit and that's probably best but I was sure of the wax and FO's I wanted to use so I didn't start with a kit. I do recommend starting out with one type/style of candle and perfecting it. This allows you to focus on fewer materials and wicks within a certain size perimeter. For example, I started out with a 2.5 " and 3" container so I only had to purchase 3 or 4 wick sizes to test with. Your wax supplier should carry wicks that are recommended for their wax plus there's a wealth of experience shared on this forum that can guide you along. I limited myself to 6 FO's. Start out with the smallest size container and if you like the FO after you've burned the candles then you can buy the largest size next time. I made the mistake of purchasing too much too fast and have large containers of fragrance I don't like. One trick that someone shared with me is if you try a wick and you can see after the first burn that it's not performing as it should then replace it. Extinquish the wick, pull it out with pliers while the wax is still soft and replace it with a length from a new wick size. You won't be able to replace the wick tab but at least you can test different wicks without having to use more wax. I let my wax pool harden completely before lighting the new wick. This may not be kosher but it works for me. Of course, I've had to learn how a wick is suppose to behave and how a wax pool is suppose to burn, and the difference between hang-up and residue - there's so much to consider when choosing a wick and I've just had to learn by reading this forum - daily - and test, test, test. :whistle: It does take an investment but being frugal can at least get you started. I haven't sold any candles yet but hope to in a few weeks time. Good luck and don't give up! Linda

Hi, I'm a little slow tonight so please bear with me So the MP should burn at about an inch per hour? Does it need to be to the glass at the end of the 3 hrs. or will it catch up on the next burn, or start tunneling? Thanks, Linda

Hi Marylyn, So the 765 & 767 worked well in the 8 oz metro's? Mine die OK with the 767 in some but had to wick up to 770 to get cleaner sides with most. I had to go to a 798 for the 12 oz metro. What wax are you pouring? I'm pouring 449. I've also found that to get clean sides then I have to settle for mushrooms. I have my test results from last week but haven't had time to post them yet. Planning to do that tomorrow morning. Linda

I've had a variety of new candles in tins stored in a box in a hallway for 1.5 yrs. and when I checked them this Fall only the Pumpkin Spice smelled old; the Christmas Tree and Cranberry were fine. Actually the smell was kind of like a solvent smell. They were made by a company that produces pure Soy candles but I'm wondering if the orange dye and the tin have reacted to cause the smell. Suppose I'll never know but wish I had one in a glass to compare to. I haven't burned any to check the fragrance. Linda

I got good results with the ECO 12 or the Premier 770 with my 3" dia cylinder jars. The 10 left about 1/8" hang up. Still a little residue with either wicks but I undersand that's the nature of Soy. I use the GW449 Blend. My MP never got deeper than 3/8" so I thought that was pretty good. Hope this helps, Linda

I get mine from the Libbey/Anchor distributor in the Dallas area. The name is Riekes-Dallas/214-638-9091. YOu can contact Libbey for the nearest dist. to you. I pay .39 ea. No minimum but you do have to order in case packs. They're very nice about sending samples too. I recommend talking to Cathy who is very helpful. Shipping can get way expensive though. We live 1.5 hrs. away and it's still much cheaper to pick them up than to have them shipped via carrier. I remember seeing a Libbey Outlet center somewhere in Louisiana one time, wonder if they have them in other states? That would probably be too convenient. Hope this helps, Linda

Thanks for the quick feedback everyone. I'm really new to candle making and and appreciate the clarification between hang-up and residue. I thought they were one in the same. I am using the GW449 and 444 and I'm getting what I now know is a residue. It's like buttermilk on left the side of a glass - if you drink buttermilk like a good southern girl does you'll know what I'm referring to I've wicked up as big as I can go using ECO wicks and the new 700 series. I've been burning a set of candles, now on their 4th - 3 hr. burn and they're looking much better - just a little area of residue clinging to the sides. I added a about 5% pure Soy to the 449 to see if that helped melt the wax a little easier but it didn't make too much difference. Linda

Does anyone have any feedback from customers as to whether the slight residue left from soy candles is a negative to them? And is it considered a NO NO in the world of Soy candlemaking? Thanks! Linda

Hope you're still keeping up with this thread and can give me some insight to your success with the ECO wicks. I just can't get a melt pool to reach the edge of my glass using Eco's no matter how big I wick. My largest jar is only 3" dia and I use 9% FO load with almost all of my FO and a 14 won't even do the trick. I also notice quite a bit of smoking and I get that ugly hang up residue. I've used 449, 444, and C-3 Soy blends with same results. Thanks, Linda