Dee

Beautiful work. Love the smell of chocolate candles burning.

Love the colors. Is the Fo from PEAKS?

Why can't you hug it?

Its very antisocial and breaks off instead of curving in leaving hot wax all over if you're not careful.

Also, depending where you are. In BC its'

www.voyageursoapandcandle.com/ Soap and body big time as well. Have sent you a pm.

I thnk the burn looks good for Astorlite. I found that when I got a pool that went out further, there was a tendency for it to weaken the sides and then they would break off in chunks. For those of you that have never made candles from it, it can't be hugged.

Very, Very pretty. Pointsettias are used everywhere here at Christmas too.

I agree with Carol entirely. It's the flame that changes the scent, not the heat. I too have successfully made tarts with FO's that were fuel smelling in candles.

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I have had candles I can't smell at all while they are burning but will really throw when I've cut pieces off and put them in the tart melter. Have put it down to wrong wicking when this happens.

Use bigger molds.

Oddly it sometimes helps to blow into the wick hole. Feels kind of silly when you do it, but it can help, at times.

That's if you use wick pins, lol. I have a vision of someone trying to blow into the wick hole with the wick in the candle:D . But of it works, it works. He's correct, usually they come out when they are ready so you may have to let them sit longer. Putting them in the fridge can work at times.

Welcome from BC.

Canwax in Ontario has some votive and container kits. They are very nice, helpful people. I usually telephone them direct.

www.canwax.com/page/page/251746.htm

PEAKS is in the US and I've got excellent service from them as well. They also have kits. If you decide to order from them, e-mail them first about how to order by mail from them because on their web site you may get the impression that they don't send to Canada. They do by mail. They are very helpful and will reply quickly.

Try e-mailing Donita. I know she posted something about water candle instructions awhile ago.

I use chips, blocks and liquid and some in combination. However, you have to test the colors. Different additives will produce different shades even if you use the same color amounts. So I start with the minimal amount I think will work and the drop some wax on a white plate and let it cool (you can put the plate in the freezer), then I add more as needed - making sure to take notes for next time. hth

Like your candle alot. Yes, the flame is high and thats been happening to me alot with flat ply wicks too no matter what formula or size. Although they give a good melt pool, I don't like to have to keep trimming to keep the flame lower. Am currently retrying lx and htp and some square braid.

Those look great! Are they Astorlite wax?

Here are instructions on making votives. You can buy the correct pretabbed wicks from Michael's. www.candletech.com/votives/

Have found that during the remelting process, some of the FO is burned off and less mottling takes place. So on the last one it may be the amount of FO left and not the steric that caused less mottling.

Beautiful candle! Beautiful color!

That's funny, I always read mine on the celsius side:grin2: . But I am bi-measurement.

They all turned our really well. If you can't decide, I'll take the one one the left:D .

Wild Raspberry from PEAKSn(not raspberry - quite different ) and that was what most guys chose from my gift packages. Ran out of it really quickly.

I haven't made many container candles, mainly pillars, so I hope the people who make containers chime in. Here are the container instructions from the same place.

www.candletech.com/containercandles/

It doesn't appear to have instructions for poking holes, but does mention how the wax will form a well as it cools and you then do a repour. There are some waxes that you aren't supposed to have to do that, but I don't know what ones. When I did make a few containers, I poked holes and did a repour. Not sure what others do?

Are you poking relief holes as your wax hardens. What type of candles - containers, pillars? If not you may find this helpful. Under basic instructions on the side bar.

/www.candletech.com/metalpillarmolds/step7.htm

Great idea!

it never occured to me to use a screw to tie the wick securely to the bottom of the mold ...i had just been using a knot but found my self falling short on the exposed wick used to light the candle ...dose any one know if this wick screw is special or is it just any short screw that i can find in my old box of left over hardware that fits the hole?truth is I dont have time to order special screws and it looks like i will be using potters clay to seal the holes because i live in the middle of no where so my options are slim for the 60 mile round trip into town and back ....but for the future i am going to have to look into the puddy idea ..thanks again for being here ...

Gave up on the wick screw system and went to the metal tape system. I use Elmer's plumbers putty and metal tape. Have to make sure the tape is really smoothed down, so I use a glue stick to do so. Works well for me, you might want to try it.

/www.candletech.com/metaltape/

Nothing to laugh about - those look great. First candles you say? Well done.

Thanks everone for helping. I think the problem is that the wax pool is not forming fast enough. I kept an eagle eye on them today and thought they were liquefying way too slowly, with more hang up than ones I made from the last wax I used in September. When I let them burn longer than normal and there was a full melt pool, the FO did get stronger. But it took too long.

It was a newer batch of the same wax and now I'm wondering if there was a change in the additive amount put in by the manufacturer and the wax has a higher mp. Also wondering if the colder temperatures we've had make a difference. Also tried lx 10s but they were wimping out too early. Don't want to go to lx 14 - thats a little big wick for votives.