CandleKitty

My biggest mold is 3" but it's my octagon mold, I worry about whether I can get the picture properly embedded with the odd shape. I've trolled the house the last couple of days looking for anything that I could use for a mold and I'm coming up empty so far but I do like the milk carton idea - far less expensive than a piece of PVC. I'd like to keep the hurricane at the usual size - 6 inches in diameter and about 5 inches tall but I'm willing to work with anything at this point. The picture I'm using is 5 x 7, I know I can resize it down, but I don't want to get too crazy with the resizing since it could distort the picture - it shows her beautiful blues off very nicely. My crazy brain came up with something last night but I'm not sure how to do it yet, with her eyes being blue I thought about doing a marbled hurricane with sky blue chips. If I can figure everything out with that, then using the glass hurricanes would be a snap - I wouldn't be pouring screaming hot wax into the hurricane and I wouldn't have to shock the side to get the picture embedded - with the better part of 80% of the wax already hardened, it would just be a matter of pulling the wax away from the side of the glass and nestling the picture there. Scented, my nephew walked in the room and started cracking up at your avatar and I must say that after all these years, I still get a giggle looking at it myself. He wants to know if that's a lime on that cat's head - but I think it's a melon. Any idea what that is??

I am kind of in a bind and could really use some creative thinking. I have been wanting to make a hurricane for my Puddin' girl but I have one issue, I do not have a hurricane mold or three wick mold. When I rescued all of my supplies this winter, I lost all of my tin molds and at this point in time, I do not have the resources to purchase another mold of that kind for a while. I really want to make this hurricane for my mama girl and the amount of hurricane wax I have left should be plenty to make it. I know that I should probably wait until I have the finances to get a hurricane mold, but this is one of those projects that just can't seem to wait any longer and I know with all the creative brains we have here we can come with some idea to get this done. I was originally looking at several glass hurricanes that I do have, they are pretty thick and could probably handle the temperature of the wax being poured into it, but considering the shock that it will have to endure to get the picture embedded into the wax, I'm too afraid they will shatter, so that was out the window pretty fast. I am also thinking of PVC - it would be great since there is no seam line to contend with but the thickness of the PVC is going to make embedding the picture even more difficult than normal. I know there has to be another way of doing this - can anyone help?

My experience with 4625 and FOs is that some of them are heavier than others (any of the Vanillas) and that could explain the two-tone nature of the votives - as the wax hardens, the FO settles close to the bottom and leaves the top almost untouched. It's actually one of the reasons why I abandoned 4625 even though I did love how they turned out when everything went right - 4625 can be touchy. The best way that I found to combat it was once you add the FO, you've got to stir and stir it hard - almost whisk the wax for several minutes then let the bubbles settle and then pour. If memory serves me right - any of the Blueberry scents are heavy oils - I would almost bet that's part of the problem. I mixed 4625 and 1343 when I started experimenting with 1343 and you do have to watch close in how it burns and how you wick it. If using the 1343 as an overpour with the 4625 as chunks - aim your wicking just a tad higher than you normally would for a straight 1343 pour because the wax ratio between the two will be slightly higher 4625 and less 1343 by volume. The goal here is to have both waxes burn at the same rate and that's the best solution I found - wick a little higher than normal. Sidenote on 1343 - I have used vybar with it in the past with minimal trouble as far as looks are concerned but watch your ratios and use less vybar than what you think you need - vybar can choke a candle from its scent in a hurry if your ratio is wrong. Since you are relatively new to this, I would strongly suggest no vybar experimentation until you get your formulas down to an art - even with all the years I've poured candles, I still had a helluva time getting it right and always remember that my results and your results will be two different animals. I abandoned vybar years ago and now go with microcrystalline wax and Universal Additive. I get amazing colors from the U.A. and the microcrystalline wax makes the 1343 extremely translucent (check out my Enchanted Apple pillar in the Candle Gallery - I used micro wax 195 on that overpour and it was almost completely see-through). I even dropped stearic from my candles once I found the U.A. - that's all I use and get some damn good results with it. Scented is right about the heatgun and the tops of the votives for better adhesion between the layers - especially with 1343. Give yourself a good pool of melted wax (all the way to the edges) and then do your second pour and relief holes are a must with 1343 - you will get some really funky looking candles if you don't. Also, your second pour needs to be at least 10* higher for good adhesion. Something else to consider is room temperature when you pour and make sure you have zero drafts. I had an issue with 1218 mushrooming as it cooled and had someone suggest that my basement might have drafts. After I did some investigating, I found out that I did have drafts and the room temperature was too cold and had to move my operations upstairs during the winter months. HTH Edited to add: http://www.craftserver.com/topic/104427-enchanted-apple/ <----link to the Enchanted Apple

I adore Peak's chips - they have always been consistent in coloring the wax and I've yet to run into a problem with them. They're the only ones I really use and I've tried a couple other companies.

I'm still experimenting with my line - truth be told I think I'm up to about 20 but I do intend to keep it as low as I can until I'm more comfortable.

4625 is what I used to play with, but since I found 1343 - I don't use any other wax, the hot throw is really solid (although some people don't always get the same results, I've never had an issue with it) and the cold throw has always been impressive as well. I use it for pillars, votives and tarts - no issues.

I got mine, Vicky - thank you.

You have some gorgeous colors there - I've always been a fan of palm wax, I love the texture they create. $2.50 isn't out of the question for those, but double check your figures and make sure you're getting something out of them after packaging. I agree with both Vicky and Scented - nice packaging makes all the difference in the world and scent is important as well, but I'm also a fan of unscented ones because sometimes, you just want beautiful candlelight and not a heavy fragrance wafting in the air, such as at the dinner table. We always want to have our candles center stage, but when it comes to food - it's got to have its moment in the spotlight as well. For unscented - $2 would be good since you aren't fiddling with additives and fragrance but as always, check your figures.

As long as you keep them in a cool, dry location away from sunlight they will keep almost indefinitely. But to make sure that the scent lasts, I would suggest going ahead to shrink-wrap them. Be sure to pull some off to the side for testing, that's an important step.

I have started test burning my Enchanted Apple pillar and have noticed after three burns that while I have a decent sized melt pool and the depth of the pool is about where it needs to be that I have a rather large flame and I'm considering wicking down. It is a 3 x 6.5" pillar and I am using 24-ply braid. Has anyone had any problems with this scent? TIA

I've worked with 4625 in the past, it's a good wax for votives and pretty easy to wick. I would allow the layers to almost completely cool (have a decent skin on the top) before you add the next layer - with or without additives 44-24-18z (zinc wick) would be good, although keep in mind that your scent can change that. FOs such as French Vanilla and Honeysuckle are heavier FOs and you may need to wick up (next highest number) to get them to burn properly. Also remember that adding fragrance will increase the volume in your wax and you might need a final pour to top off the votives so they have smooth tops. If everything goes right - 10 is not out of the question.

I don't know about everyone else, but I can't wait for this winter to end. It's been a very hard, very long winter and the sooner I can brighten the house with spring scents, the happier I feel.

That's the only thing that bites sometimes, you have to go to this website to get this additive, but go to that website to get those wicks and oh, let's not forget to go to the other site that's having a huge sale on FOs... If I remember correctly - I got my micro from either Lone Star or Candlewic, I can't remember right now but it's not that expensive - about a dollar either way from U.A.

Ooh, that Cherry Lemonade sounds amazing - I am so into those kinds of scents. I'd like to find a scent that smells like the Sonic's Cherry Limeades, woo hoo!

Actually Vicky, I never thought of doing that, thank you so much for that idea. I have been trying the zinc cores with them - 44-24-18Zs so far and the flame is weak but I did use French Vanilla and I've always had to wick up whenever I use it. The test at this point is still inconclusive about zincs, only because of mama cat's episode the other night has taken my full attention. When I pour the Lavender Sachets this weekend, I intend to use the zinc to see where it takes me. Will post something shortly in the classified section, thanks again.

Something soothing on my mama girl's senses, the Lavender Sachets FOs from Peak's are wonderful and she's always liked the smell of lavender. Hoping to perk her up some by pouring some candles, even with everything she's gone through she's still been right there under my foot this last week.

Scented, I would think that you could use the micro as an over dip or pour - melt point for what I used was 195*. I got it when I was experimenting with hurricanes but never really played with it much in pillars but I hear you can use it in the over pour for chunks. If anything, it would make a good experiment.

These are actually on purpose with the mottle, but unfortunately the 9.5 cooled too fast to get the mottle going. Scented with a mix of Lovespell and French Vanilla.

This one was a blast to make and the cold throw is absolutely phenomenal! The light pink rings are actually magenta pigment - one chip per one pound of wax. I've decided to not hug this one as I usually do with pillars, I want to see the glow that the rings make. The overpour was done with one tsp. micro wax 195. I have a gal that is wanting a candle from me soon and I needed to see just how transparent the micro wax makes the 1343. I dare say, that's pretty transparent.

I am currently looking into the various wicks for the 2" diameter molds I have and I'm kind of stuck at the moment and need some advice. I have 18-ply flat braid that I am getting ready to test with the Cappuccino Hazelnut that I poured this weekend (pictures in the Gallery) but in the event the 18 doesn't work, I'm going to have to change it up. I've narrowed my decision down to either the RRD or the LX series wicks. My problem stems from the fact that while I can get sample packs for both, I am limited to only 6" in the packs and I have a 9.5" for the nest. Theoretically, if I were to limit my testing to the 4.5" so I can get the packs and find the right wick - would I still be able to count on my results for the 9.5"? My only other option would be to buy the spools, which would be no problem (I have found spools for the RRD and LX series size I am looking at at Candlewic) except if I find out that the wick can't be used, I am stuck with the spool. I know that truthfully, every size candle I intend to sell must be tested and tested and tested again before I can consider it a good candle to sell - but I'm not sure which direction to go. If I get the packs, I have to test only with the 4.5" but if I get the spools I can test the 9.5" but risk wasting money if the wick I choose isn't right. Any thoughts???

Thank you, mystic I do whatever I can to avoid them when I'm doing sleek candles, too. This is actually the first time I purposely tried to get the jump lines and it turned out fantastic so I'll definitely be trying it again in the future. Honestly, nothing beats the feel of a sleek candle in your hand but it adds a whole new dimension handling them when there's texture to them. Not entirely sure I'm going to burn those, I'm thinking about putting them on a mirror and keeping them on my dining room table as a centerpiece.

Standard aluminum molds, Scented. I poured them insanely cold though - right around 125-130* and had the molds in the freezer for about 30 minutes while I prepared the wax. Then I took one mold out at a time, splashed wax into the mold, waited for 7 seconds and then poured slow to get the jump lines. Actually couldn't believe my eyes when I pulled them out of the molds.

Nope! Only jumping around I do is Break On Through when I'm working on my marbled candles - although I'm also prone to doing it during L.A. Woman. I only listen to the Doors when I'm pouring. Something about Jim's voice soothes the senses and keeps the concentration on high.

Thank you. I admit, I was way nervous when I did it. Being away from this for so long, I remembered what to do and how to do it but I still found myself with butterflies in my stomach. At least Jim Morrison kept me calm - I was listening to The End when I poured these. Only obstacle now is testing, those were poured in 2" molds, I've never used them before.