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seattle70

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Posts posted by seattle70

  1. I am using CB3 and added about 25% J223 to get nicer tops. I noticed some really huge sink holes that required a lot of heat gun work after it was set to fill it in and let the bubbles surface. I am also pouring in my garage and it's coooold out. Pour temp is between 120-145 and the jars are garage temp (50F). I don't poke because I was under the impression that with Soy you are poke free and the amount of 223 was small.

    Any suggestions as to why and how I can make it stop? Or should I just stop making candles.....:)

  2. You can control the direction that your HTP wicks burn by how you set them up in the container. If you look at the wick, holding it straight up, there is an upward "V" on one side and a downward "V" on the other side. Your wick will curl toward the downward "V", toward the container.

    I couldn't tell by your picture exactly how they were pointing. But that will help a little with your burn.

    Thank you, I didnt know that. I think I'll bag the HTP's and try the ECO14. If not, I think the 44's burned better, cleaner.

  3. I put (2) HTP-83's in it. We'll see how that fairs. The (2) 44's almost made it to the edge. I let it burn for a long long time..... I will go get some LX, ECO, and C85 wicks. I really like these tins and want to keep them.

    Thanks for all your help!!! It sure helps ALOT!

    ***Holly, no more cauliflower (no additives either-must have been due to the remelt..?) and the Scented Bean is by far my favorite. Excellent customer service. Thanks for the tip :)

  4. Now I understand that the CB-3 has an MP of 119, which makes me think you should be able to swing that 8oz tin, but I think you might need an ECO 14 in there and don't expect a FMP in an hour. You might also find it helpful to have some of the NST 2 treated LX wicks around (LX-24 and above) for when you need more horsepower. ECO 14 and LX-24 are roughly equivalent.

    Isnt the RRD NST2 treated as well? The two 44's have made a large oval. They left about 3/4" on either side so I'm getting close. Did you use a ECO-14 when you tested it? If so, did you get a full melt pool?

  5. No cauliflower on the CB-3 (hooray!). I will try the LX wicks. Of course it is the only wick I don't have!!

    I just put (2) 44-28Z's in the 8oz, we'll see how it does. I am beginning to believe that anything over 3" needs 2 wicks. I am just shocked that the ECO-12 didn't even put a dent in it. I see those tins for sale all the time with just one wick.

  6. Great ideas and explanations. I read somewhere once that a true soy candles will do this but man is it ugly! Thanks for the ideas on the additive and BW. I'll get some this week. Also great idea on letting people know whats coming! And it could be that I remelted it and changed the chemical makeup. Ill make a fresh batch and test it out.

    I need 70 hours in a day, this 24 stuff is not cutting it.

  7. I am at a loss with tins. Here are (2) tins that I bought from Cierra candles. The horsepower is as follows:

    8 oz tin 3.3" diameter CB3 Soy/Veggie wax Eco 12 wick

    16 oz tin 3.9" diameter CB3 (3) RRD 40 wicks

    I just used (3) RRD40's in my 11 oz barrel jars with a 4 1/8" diameter and it worked awesome!

    Any suggestions would be great. Anyone use these tins before? They are really nice and I would like to get this to wick.

    They had been burning for 2+ hours. The 8 oz tin has about a 1" melt pool. The 16 oz I let burn even longer and finally got a larger MP (not to the sides, but close enough).

  8. Kaybee23:

    It's not swelling around the wick. Just looks like a cauliflower! I remelted some jars (EZSOY and probably some other soy wax) to test my new jars. They have the old FO in them but nothing else.

    How much BW should I add per lb?

    And Holly, where do you get your additive and what is it called?

    I made my first test candle with CB3 today. I want it to cure before I light it up! (I made a patchouli, jasmine, orange, lemon candle and it smells sooooo good).

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