geekrunner

Sorry late to reply! Yes I have three different kinds, though I mostly use the EZ Wick centering tools. I ordered more from GL so I can pour 24 at a time. My heat gun I got from Lowe's and it is the two-speed model used to strip paint. It is probably not smaller than yours, I wish I could find a way to narrow it down without damaging the heating element. I suspect that having a narrower tip and not dialing down the fan speed would make it throw wax, since the "muzzle velocity" would be increased. I could probably only run it on low. At times I need more power! geek

Sorry late to reply! I use a blend of 415 and 402 with 4% USA, and Pryme colors. I use the EZ Wick setter, I have both the single and multi setter, and have alot of the EZ Wick centering tools too. I double wick most of my keepsakes and single the jelly jars. Merry Christmas! geek

INtersting that I got no reponses for the opposite view. It would apear that CYA is the number one concern in business. I would agree with everyone here, but thought I could start an argument Merry Chrismas! geek

PM'd you. geek

Can't really say since I'm a soy guy but congratulations on your first candle pours! It takes a little time to get your technique down but you are off to a good start! geek

My experience with BW in 415 or 415/402 blend is that it does helps the cold/hot throw, along with hardening the wax and helping with the tops. It also will raise the melt point, since BW typically has ab 150 MP. geek

I have been trimming my wicks down to 1/4 inch after my poured candles set up, and after heat gunning. I've been doing it as a courtesy to the buyers, and to make certain the wick is correctly trimmed for it's first burn. I could see where a chandler would try to save time, and just fold the remaining wick down and make certain burning instructions include an admonishment to trim the wick to 1/4 inch before burning, and between burns. Or trimming to 1/2 inch to make it look better, and relying on the end user to trim properly. Question before the assembled masses: Do you trim wicks or not, and what is your rationale? This directly addresses the issue on how much responsibility should be assumed by the end user for properly maintaining their candle, an object that could potentially damage their home if not maintained correctly? geek

Apparently the candle mfgs like to sell by weight, so they pour a bit short to the weight they want. Since some are machine poured, the wicks will float a bit and get off-centered. Also to save time, the wicks are cut to a certain length, and then rely on the end user to trim to the correct length to burn. It seems to me that leaving the wick trimmed long on purpose, combined with explicit burning instructions provided to the end user, places some responsibility on said user to trim the wick correctly, resulting in the candle burning more like the chandler intended. Soy can and will get "brainy" depending on how old it is and the humidity level. Soy "stabilizers" include adding 30% to 50% paraffin, or 3-4% beeswax or a vegetable-based soy stabilizer (believed to be lecithin). It doesn't really affect the burn or the throw, but it doesn't look good. geek

This season, being my first real attempt at purposely selling candles, I wound up being short on some supplies. With about 35 candles needing to be poured by Friday, I found I was lacking on some stuff, so I put in last minute orders: Greenleaf last Thursday the 14th, Candlemaker's Store on Friday the 15th, and MillCreek on Saturday the 16th. I crossed my fingers that I would get the stuff in soon enough to finish my orders. Well, I found that my stuf from CStore and GL arrived today, and the MC stuff will arrive tomorrow! Woo hoo! :whoohoo: It bears repeating that these three suppliers put their customer service first! Big thank you's to them! geek

...to the world of parasoy! You'll probably get more help on parasoys on the Veggie wax forum, which I patrol most of the time . You'll find that most parasoys will pull away from the jar, the exception is Greenleaf's 70/30 parasoy. It's the paraffin content that makes it shrink up a bit and not adhere. Greenleaf's parasoy does stick much better, but you have to find a way to cool the candle very slowly. Usually you can cover the jar in a cardboard box, or set the candle in the well of a sectioned-off jar carton. If you use a thinwall jar, it doesn't look that bad to have it pull away. At least you don't have any frosting trouble like all veggie. Wecome again to the board! We love noobs, they taste like chicken geek

WTG! Now make more geek

Depends on your jar size and how much wax is remaining. I would melt and repour if it's halfway or more consumed, otherwise pull the wick, heat gun the top, poke a new wick hole and rewick. geekster

As far as I can tell, once the candle has completely cooled and solidified, you can wick test. You might not get an accurate assessment of cold or hot throw, but you can certainly assess the wick performance. Of course, I'm not a total expert here. Maybe Top can chime in here if he knows something I don't (which is most of the time ). geek

VERY limited indeed! Their smaller sizes are 3 1/2 inch long, they should have everything above 725 at 6" minimum. Can't wait to see what soycandles will offer. geek

There is a company from Texas that makes not only the EZ Wick Setting Tool, but also makes EZ Wick Centering tools. They are not very expensive, and they save you a bunch of time and perfectly center your wicks! I originally purchased a dozen of the small and large size. The small works well for jelly jars, and the large works well for larger jars with 3" openings, and is setup for double wicking. Very handy tools indeed! You can get them from alot of places, but one in particular is Greenleaf in Grand Prairie, TX. //end shameless plug geek

What I like about them is the wide range of sizes, they do mushroom less, and when they do, they smoke alot less if you blow them out. Also that the two largest sizes can clean a 3 1/2 inch keepsake jar in a single wick configuration! I got the sample pack, and it was very generous, but could not afford to get 1000 of each size that I would need. As soon as soycandle gets them in, I can get more to test and buy what I need! geek

It seems that offering a "deposit" for used glassware would be a good way to get people back for another candle, as long as it were tied to another candle purchase. I wouldn't want a situation where I offered $1 a jar and have someone bring me a bunch of used jars just to cash in, like I used to do with pop bottles back in the '70s. As long as it generated another sale, I would take back my used glassware and recycle them as tester jars. Eventually you break a few over time, and some you just throw out for whatever reason. I would refill a used jar for my family, and am doing so right now, but the jars are the thicker pressed two-piece terraced jars, and I carefully inspected them before refilling. I wouldn't even consider refilling a thinwall blown one-piece jar, like the ones imported from China, or refilling any jar from a customer. New jar all the way. your geek

I happened to hear this from a reliable source, so I went to their website http://www.soycandle.com and looked in the Wicks section, and it indeed has a notice that they will soon carry Premier 700 wicks! This means we no longer have to buy 1000 at a time! geek

The HTP 1312 is supposedly the second hottest wick in the line, but it probably is in reality the hottest. The WI 795 and WI 798 are the two hottest Premier 700 wicks, so I would try the 795 first, then you could go down to the 793, or up to the 798 if need be. HTH! geek

...to deliver today for a friend to sell at work this week. Poured 36 16 oz keepsakes with nine different FOs: Bayberry, Home for the Holidays, Banana Nut Bread, Mulled Cider, Apple Jack n Peel, Christmas Eve, Candy Cane, Pine, and Pumpkin Spice. Whew! Below is the inside of my secret underground lair, aka my Mad Scientist Lab with my lineup of cooling candles:

I got my ball valve and other hardware from Lowe's, right off the top I don't recall how much they all cost. You could use a different size, preferably a little larger, but you will need to change the drill bit and tap size too. It may be easier and less money in the long run to just get the 3/8'' hardware, especially if you already have the drill bit and tap. Woo hoo! This is my 1,000th post! Do I get a prize? geek

I sure jumped in on this one late! My primary reason for using soy wax: it is easier to clean up the test jars! geek

I finally have something in my pots other than dust and spider webs! Pouring Christmas present packages in my own Geekrunner Soy Blend using Home For The Holidays, and KY parasoy in the other pouring Indonesian Teak. Purple Lilac did some soaps for me to add to my packages, and they should be arriving today. Also will pour a couple each of my eleven scents to sell this season as demonstrators, and send out flyers to all my customers from last year. your geeky geek

Barnyard Romance Hogslop Pull my Finger Fresh Mown Hay White Corncob I lost my chewing gum in the chicken yard, and I thought I found it, two or three times. Q. Why are there white and red corncobs in the outhouse? A. You use a red one, then a white one to see if you need to use another red one. Your geek

Yes indeed, I had the same trouble when testing the tureens. I was able to get only a couple of test burns in before the wicks fell over. The one advnatage to tureens--if you can get them tested, and you don't mind a little extra work, youcan get double the mileage from your wicks by trimming them down, then take the triimed piecs, and attach a tab to one end, and you have another whole wick! geek