Cut n Carve wax?

Does anyone know a good brand of cut n carve wax that can be ordered in maybe 1 lb samples? I've never made a cut n carve before, I'd like to experiment, but I dont want a whole lot of it.

Thanks!

Not sure what you can do with just one pound.

I would go ahead if you have any interest at all and order 10, 20 or even a case of 55 pounds of it so you can really test it. Its not that great of a wax for scent throw (when burning a candle) but its a wonderful wax to make melts with. You can play with cut and carve all day and then use the scraps or any left over wax to make melts with. Cut and carve is not cheap to get into, your vats can hold as much as 500 pounds of wax like mine do and dip tanks can cost thousands of dollars, so to start playing with one pound wax just don't make sense to me. Its not a wonder wax or anything... straight 145 MP paraffin wax is the only thing i have used for years. The special blends of cc wax might be more of a long cut paraffin if I remember right and have some micro wax added, but we never had that kind of wax when I learned, you just used what you had on hand and made it work.

Hope this helps you out some.

Bruce

Thanks! I actually didnt realize you needed that much to do it. Appreciate the help!

Not sure what you can do with just one pound.

I would go ahead if you have any interest at all and order 10, 20 or even a case of 55 pounds of it so you can really test it. Its not that great of a wax for scent throw (when burning a candle) but its a wonderful wax to make melts with. You can play with cut and carve all day and then use the scraps or any left over wax to make melts with. Cut and carve is not cheap to get into, your vats can hold as much as 500 pounds of wax like mine do and dip tanks can cost thousands of dollars, so to start playing with one pound wax just don't make sense to me. Its not a wonder wax or anything... straight 145 MP paraffin wax is the only thing i have used for years. The special blends of cc wax might be more of a long cut paraffin if I remember right and have some micro wax added, but we never had that kind of wax when I learned, you just used what you had on hand and made it work.

Hope this helps you out some.

Bruce

Bruce are you saying that you carve with straight para?

You didn't say that I hope...

Bruce are you saying that you carve with straight para?

You didn't say that I hope...

That is what I read.

Its not a wonder wax or anything... straight 145 MP paraffin wax is the only thing i have used for years.

I have used IGI 1239 and IGI 1345

HTH

Have fun!

Michael

IGI 1343 works good for carving.

Bruce are you saying that you carve with straight para?

You didn't say that I hope...

Only for the last 29 years i have....

I think the easiest way to tell if the wax will work is to see if it is listed are a good taper candle wax with around a 140-145mp. (not beeswax) Its all about the layers sticking together when you cut and twist.

You dont have to have a lot of wax like my tank, but you will need some since you have to pour a base molded candle then dip it in hot wax about 25 times to make the layers. I guess you could even start with just dipping a taper candle and then carving it... that wouldnt take much wax.

Only for the last 29 years i have....

No Micro or anything else to keep it pliable? That's interesting. I'd like to see pics.

No Micro or anything else to keep it pliable? That's interesting. I'd like to see pics.

Bruce are you saying that you carve with straight para?

You didn't say that I hope...

I carve with straight paraffin, sometimes I may add some micro, and maybe some stearic, but for the most part I just carve with straight paraffin. I have since I started carving 2+ years ago, and haven't had any problems. Is there a reason you are thinking you shouldn't use straight paraffin? Just curious.

ETA: -

Oh, okay. I guess if I would have read the WHOLE thread I would have got my answer before posting!! lol To keep it pliable. No, very rarely do I add the micro or stearic to my wax either. I did when I first started carving, but anymore, it's just an extra step that really can be eliminated or avoided alltogether.

And yes, Bruce would know. His carvings are B-E-A-Utiful, to say the least!! I can only aspire to HOPE to be as good as he is. lol

Those are some very nice candles...

I'd like to hear from anyone that carves with straight 145. I've only been carving for 18 years... so I'm not as experienced as Bruce.

However I'd think that straight 145 would be far too brittle and cool far too quickly to allow even the fastest carver time to cut and curl/twist. Maybe if the room were 120*F...

Also, those colors look very opaque, so I would have to guess that there is something else there.

I know candle makers are usually not willing to "share" how things are made. And I do respect that, however, this is a "Candle Making Discussions" forum.

Best blend is 130-135 with 5% Micro... and any other little additives that might help your cause.

My 2 pennies.

Those are some very nice candles...

I'd like to hear from anyone that carves with straight 145. I've only been carving for 18 years... so I'm not as experienced as Bruce.

However I'd think that straight 145 would be far too brittle and cool far too quickly to allow even the fastest carver time to cut and curl/twist. Maybe if the room were 120*F...

Also, those colors look very opaque, so I would have to guess that there is something else there.

I know candle makers are usually not willing to "share" how things are made. And I do respect that, however, this is a "Candle Making Discussions" forum.

Best blend is 130-135 with 5% Micro... and any other little additives that might help your cause.

My 2 pennies.

Well, I use 1343 for my carving. I *think* that's a straight paraffin with no additives added. I haven't had any trouble with the wax being brittle or too cool to carve. In fact in some cases, I have to wait a minute or 2 for the candle to cool down enough to carve otherwise it "squishes" too much. (Don't know what other word to use for it! lol) Now I must admit, I am nowhere near as good as carving as some of the others on here, but it's mostly because of technique, not because of how the wax is reacting.

This is just what works for me, and I'm sure different things work differently for other people, just like everything else in this business.. lol

I'd like to hear from anyone that carves with straight 145. I've only been carving for 18 years... so I'm not as experienced as Bruce.

However I'd think that straight 145 would be far too brittle and cool far too quickly to allow even the fastest carver time to cut and curl/twist. Maybe if the room were 120*F...

Also, those colors look very opaque, so I would have to guess that there is something else there.

You have to remember that I use dye, not pigments. I assure you I use straight 145. My clear tank is soo clean you can see if there were a hair in the bottom of it. (until I start dipping when i get some color off the candle making the clear cloudy). Me and my father had a contract with Walmart and 2 other large retailers back then and ALL our candles were many in front of the public. We went for flash, showmanship and speed. 3 to 4 minutes to carve a super nice candle, with dipping total time 10 minutes. They would set you up in the strangest places... like the eye glass cleaner guys.. remember them? We were sometimes set up between the out doors and most of the time it was winter so we got good, real good and real quick.

You might like this link from 2 years ago, it was super fun, be sure to look at all the pages since the first page only has half the candles on it. 3 candles dipped, carved, glazed, dried and pictures posted in one hour and one minute.

http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=gallery;action=display;num=1097633594;start=0

Bruce

Bruce, I remember that thread!! That was a lot of fun, to watch people pic the colors, then BAMMO you had a carved candle in those color combos!!

umm when are you gonna do that again??? lol

Bruce, I remember that thread!! That was a lot of fun, to watch people pic the colors, then BAMMO you had a carved candle in those color combos!!

umm when are you gonna do that again??? lol

I know! It was fun.. should do it on WEB CAM this time hey? I wish i had time for that stuff... I have to get busy right now and start making 2400 one ounce melts for an order though! ACK!!!

I know! It was fun.. should do it on WEB CAM this time hey? I wish i had time for that stuff... I have to get busy right now and start making 2400 one ounce melts for an order though! ACK!!!

The 2400 melts sounds like FUN!! --- NOT!! lol

However I'd think that straight 145 would be far too brittle and cool far too quickly to allow even the fastest carver time to cut and curl/twist. Maybe if the room were 120*F...

Micro is a special type of paraffin, so when you add it you still basically have straight paraffin. You just increase the proportion of non-normal paraffin molecules, which makes the wax more pliable over a wider temperature range. A broad cut of paraffin contributes to that as well, whereas a narrow cut has a more distinct melting point and tends to be harder except when near that temp.

These things all vary a lot from the refinery and also due to blending along the way, so I imagine carvers could find various materials that work for them and their technique. For example, 4045 versus 4045EP (EP = extra pliable) are both sold as straight paraffin but the latter is highlighted for carving. The difference is the hydrocarbon distribution.