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Newbie Needs Help On Wax!!! (Whats New LOL)


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I am very new to this, So new that I haven't actually made any candles yet..:rolleyes2

I am stuck to say the least! The choices of wick and wax combinations are endless. I don't even know where to start. I would like to make these in hopes of one day selling them so I deff. want to do as much testing as possible, but I have to know where to start.

I know that I am going to use 8oz. jelly jars no dyes and peaks fo with 6% or 1oz. per lb. to start off with.

I was going to use a soy blend wax at first considering GW464, but then decided that I would forego the "natural" cleaner burning wax for a greater scent throw.

I have since been stuck on IGI 4630 or IGI 4627 with a C-60 to 65 wick (wick was reccomended by the lady that I spoke on the phone with at peak).

I know there are alot of very succesful chandlers here, I hope someone can atleast let me know what to order to get started.

Thanks in advance

Kala

Any other advice would also be greatly appreciated :)

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First off to fix a misconception, soy was is no more "natural" than paraffin and certainly no less clean burning. Soy is lucky enough to have the soot it produces be white in color so its less visible. Soy soots just as much as paraffin. As far as natural, prior to being turned into soy wax, the product is sent to a chemical company to be hydrogenized (have hydrogen added to the wax) to make it semi-solid. Dont be surprised to see arguments from those who sell only soy. When your selling an inferior product (for scent throw and color), you hang on to whatever benefits you can find. Soy is sustainable which is good. And it keeps American farmers working (which is fantastic).

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I started off testing 4627 (comfort blend) but found it smoked too much with an HTP wick large enough for a FMP using 1.2 oz./lb of scent. I switched to 4630 and have loved it (though I have to use a touch of vybar to prevent the oil from leaking). I have never used the C-series wicks. Only HTP. They curl which prevents a lot of mushrooming and their relatively self trimming.

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I also use 4630 and love it - I use zinc or LX wicks. The trick for you will be finding what works well for you - you see many threads where 2 people can use the same stuff and have different results. That's why you will have a lot of testing to do!

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First off to fix a misconception, soy was is no more "natural" than paraffin and certainly no less clean burning. Soy is lucky enough to have the soot it produces be white in color so its less visible. Soy soots just as much as paraffin. As far as natural, prior to being turned into soy wax, the product is sent to a chemical company to be hydrogenized (have hydrogen added to the wax) to make it semi-solid. Dont be surprised to see arguments from those who sell only soy. When your selling an inferior product (for scent throw and color), you hang on to whatever benefits you can find. Soy is sustainable which is good. And it keeps American farmers working (which is fantastic).

Yea, that why I put the "Natural". I personally think people would rather have an awesome scent throw. Then again its all about how you market your product.

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If I had it to do over again, I would start out the with the Peak's candle making kit for beginners, which includes IGI 4630 wax, FOs, dyes, wicks, pour pot, thermometer, and tins. etc. That will give you a good starting point.

Edited by HorsescentS
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If I had it to do over again, I would start out the with the Peak's candle making kit for beginners, which includes IGI 4630 wax, FOs, dyes, wicks, pour pot, thermometer, and tins. etc. That will give you a good starting point.

That's how the bug bit us, with a kit from Peak's. We were working with our boys in cub scouts, helping them earn a badge. We had so much fun and awesome results that we reordered all the kit components and started experimenting with fragrance, wicks and containers. That was four years ago and it's been very fulfilling to learn the science behind making safe and quality products.

We live in the heartland and feel very good about our choice of soy wax because it supports family and friends who are soybean farmers. The cleanup from making soy products is so quick and clean, too!

Good luck and enjoy your learning.

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The only problem with going with a kit is, Im not going to use the dyes and it won't help me as far figuring out what wick I am going to need with the 8oz jelly jars I plan to use.Thats why I was going to get the sample pack of wicks.

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I certainly wouldn't call soy wax "inferior". Certain fragrance oils work better in soy wax than in paraffin, and vice versa. Candle making is all about what works best for YOU. Choose a wax, work with it for a while, and if it doesn't work out for you...you can always try another.

Both soy and paraffin have qualities that are superior and inferior when compared. I just happen to think that soy has more inferior qualities than paraffin but that's just my opinion. It also depends on which wax one is comparing. Soy wax is certainly not as easy to use as paraffin and I would always recommend newcomers starting off with a paraffin or a parasoy as to avoid the frustrations of soy and to gain some experience in candle making. There are also qualities that some may like and others not. Frosting in soy for example, personally I think it is ugly and therefore, would make my list of inferior aspects. Others, however, might like it. In any case, like you say, there are many waxes out there and the fun is in the learning.

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I am going with the 4630, I would love to try 4627 but think that is a bit much considering all the trouble with wicking I have been reading about. I think the 8oz jelly jars with no dye and 1oz. per lb of wax should be a good starting point I would assume. I am aiming to perfect the highest scented candle I can.

There is a lady I have gotten my candles from for sevral years that is out of state that I visit on vacation, I would soooo love to know her secrets lol. They have the perfect MP and an amazing CT and HT at every burn. I guess starting out with the sample pack of Cotton wicks will help me get there.

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I am going with the 4630, I would love to try 4627 but think that is a bit much considering all the trouble with wicking I have been reading about. I think the 8oz jelly jars with no dye and 1oz. per lb of wax should be a good starting point I would assume. I am aiming to perfect the highest scented candle I can.

There is a lady I have gotten my candles from for sevral years that is out of state that I visit on vacation, I would soooo love to know her secrets lol. They have the perfect MP and an amazing CT and HT at every burn. I guess starting out with the sample pack of Cotton wicks will help me get there.

Consider getting wick sample packs of some other wicks, it might save you some time as most people try several wicks types before finding one they are happy with. Two that come to mind are: zinc wicks and HTP. LX may be another choice to have on hand. I use 4630 quite successfully with HTP. If you jelly jar is about 3 inches in diameter then I would suggest the HTP-62 as a starting point.

Melt pools in paraffin are different that soy, so I'm not sure what you would consider a "perfect" melt pool.

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The top of my jars are 2 5/8. Maybe ill get the HTP sample pack to try first. Her candles have no hang up and have about 1/4'' mp after about 3-4 hrs of burning. The scent throw is just amazing. I sure wish I had a number for her.. Not that she would be obliged to share, but its great. What % fo do you use if you don't mind me asking.

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Both soy and paraffin have qualities that are superior and inferior when compared. I just happen to think that soy has more inferior qualities than paraffin but that's just my opinion. It also depends on which wax one is comparing. Soy wax is certainly not as easy to use as paraffin and I would always recommend newcomers starting off with a paraffin or a parasoy as to avoid the frustrations of soy and to gain some experience in candle making. There are also qualities that some may like and others not. Frosting in soy for example, personally I think it is ugly and therefore, would make my list of inferior aspects. Others, however, might like it. In any case, like you say, there are many waxes out there and the fun is in the learning.

I agree 100%. I was going to start with soy because I was brainwashed by the hype I had read on the soy candle makers websites, but then I learned the truth, and now I'm sooooo glad I started with parasoy and paraffin.

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I agree 100%. I was going to start with soy because I was brainwashed by the hype I had read on the soy candle makers websites, but then I learned the truth, and now I'm sooooo glad I started with parasoy and paraffin.

Yea, I am deff. going with the 4630. After doing my research and weighing my options. I decided that scent throw was going to be my main agenda closely followed by smoking and sooting.

Edited by kalacpck
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Robert:

I'm just curious as to how much vybar you add per lb of wax. Do you find this wax generally leaks oil at 1.2oz/lb of scent or does it leak oil under certain environmental conditions?

Thanks in advance for your reply.

Neil

I started off testing 4627 (comfort blend) but found it smoked too much with an HTP wick large enough for a FMP using 1.2 oz./lb of scent. I switched to 4630 and have loved it (though I have to use a touch of vybar to prevent the oil from leaking). I have never used the C-series wicks. Only HTP. They curl which prevents a lot of mushrooming and their relatively self trimming.
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Robert:

I'm just curious as to how much vybar you add per lb of wax. Do you find this wax generally leaks oil at 1.2oz/lb of scent or does it leak oil under certain environmental conditions?

Thanks in advance for your reply.

Neil

Oh Im interested in this as well, I need to do a little research on Vybar..

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Robert:

I'm just curious as to how much vybar you add per lb of wax. Do you find this wax generally leaks oil at 1.2oz/lb of scent or does it leak oil under certain environmental conditions?

Thanks in advance for your reply.

Neil

I used to use as much as 1/2 tsp per lb but found it bound my scent. Now I use less than 1/4, typically like 6 or 7 granuals. I get no leakage at all.

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