KrazeKelly Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Does anyone make cdn wicks over 6 inches that are already primed? I was going to order some rolls of csn wicking but noticed that they are not primed. TIA,Kelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 CDN or CSN? If you're looking for CDNs Southwest Candle has them in 7"Can't help with the CSN though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeanie353 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Does anyone make cdn wicks over 6 inches that are already primed? I was going to order some rolls of csn wicking but noticed that they are not primed. TIA,KellyCC does for CDN.http://candlecocoon.com/viewitem.asp?Id=20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SliverOfWax Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Check Candlewic's custom wick section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazeKelly Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Great thanks!! I like the CSN's but only CS carries them and the rolls are raw. So, I thought I would try some CDN's if I could find them in the length I need already primed. I need them for some taller pillars I want to make. Thanks for giving me some direction to go.Kelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 cdn and csn are very different wicks. If you have tested csn's and like them I would not switch it up at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazeKelly Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 cdn and csn are very different wicks. If you have tested csn's and like them I would not switch it up at this point.Yes, I really don't want to switch but I don't want to have to prime my own wicks either, so I thought I would give them a shot first. I don't know what CS primes their CSN with so I would be taking a chance on a different burning wick anyway by trying to do it myself. At least that is my thinking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 I think (and you would have to confirm it with them) CS uses the high melt point natural priming wax by EcoSoya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 I use the cdn from candle coccoon and they are 12 " long and just great. I think that's just good marketing about calling your wick csn and stating that its special made for all new natural waxes IMHO. Course the best thing to do is buy a sample and test. I've used cdn wicks from other distributors and they all look a little different but burn the same as far as I can tell in testing. The customer service is so fine and Lyschel is tops. HTHSteve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazeKelly Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Here is the response from CS when I asked about what to prime with......It depends on the type of candles you are making. Spooled wick can be used uncoated in pillar candles. If you are making container candles you can coat it in the same wax you are using for the candles. The coating just provides some rigidity to help it stand up in the container while pouring and cooling the candles. It will not effect the way the candle burnsSo, I may give it a shot raw in a pillar and see if it burns the same. I'm just wondering if they are raw and I use wick pins what will happen since the hole is usually a little bigger than the wick..... Hmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazeKelly Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 The nice lady at CS said that I should not need to prime the raw wicks even if I use a wick pin. She said the roll wick is actually a little bigger than the primed wicks and should fit and burn fine. So, I'm going to give it a try. Learning stuff today!! That's always a good thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Priming with a high MP wax actually keeps the wick rigid in the melt pool while burning. This is a rare case I believe CS is wrong. I have had wicks flop over if the wicks were primed with wax with a melt point lower than 160 degrees. Not fun at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Priming with a high MP wax actually keeps the wick rigid in the melt pool while burning.Ain't that the truth! Also priming in beeswax is great too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazeKelly Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 Hmmmm... good point! I went ahead and ordered a spool of csn so I will test it out and let you know what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricofAZ Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 I went to raw wicks over a year ago because of the price. I agree that priming doesn't have much of an effect on the burn of the candle after the first burn because the wick and melt pool tend to remain stable on how they interact. During the first burn, the pure raw wick will take a while to soak to the core and likely it will form a small cap that needs to be broken off before the second burn.I've primed mostly just by letting the wick go slack and soak in the freshly poured container then pull it tight with a wick holder.I've primed also by melting high melt point micro wax and putting raw wick in the pot. This method will, after a few minutes, superheat the air in the core and push it out in place of the micro wax. As such, the burn will be consistent even with the first burn. Most pre-primed wicks are not primed through the core, only the outside.As for flopping over, I've controlled that by limiting the depth of the melt pool. The deeper it is, the more likely the wick will flop over so if you're working with a cooler burning candle, the priming doesn't really seem to matter that much (other than the first burn). The core material can have a lot to do with the wick flopping over or not as well. Obviously, zinc tends to stay straight. So do HTP cores which I prefer a lot and cotton cores which I also like. Wicks that don't have a core at all, like ply wicks, need to limit the depth of the burn so using those in tapers is often just fine. Tapers tend to do better and drip less when the wick is really flowing a higher rate of consumption for the flame size and when they tend to burn a bit above the melt pool instead of right at the melt pool. I guess that's why there are so many different kinds of wicks on the market.I tend to make my candles a little cooler only because of the abuse factor (people burning them beyond the recommended burn time). Recently I had some feedback from a new tester that she was unsure at first how much she liked (or didn't like) the fact that there was some hang on the side of the glass. She noted that it caught up which made her feel like she was getting her money's worth. The throw was definitely OK in her opinion (which is hard to do with a smaller melt pool). She did like the fact that if she had to touch the glass or grab it for some reason, it wasn't going to burn her. (Another abuse issue, people should not be moving a hot candle, but they do.) Overall I asked if she would prefer the hotter ones that leave no hang or the cooler ones and she decided that the cooler ones seemed safer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazeKelly Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Thank you for that information! I don't have mine yet but will next week. I am only using on pillars so we'll see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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