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Wood wick for beeswax rose


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I'm thinking a wood wick would look neat in my beeswax roses. However, I have no experience with wood wicks. Seeking the advice of anyone with experience. Will a wood wick work in this situation? If yes, your recommendation as to size, wood type and/or brand name. Any and all advice will be most appreciated.

J.Snow

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I don't use wood wicks either but wanted to mentioned also how pretty your rose is. Can't tell from the pic if it is a votive size or larger. Am visualizing how perfect they would be burning in a bathroom or powder room when guests come over....or just any time actually.

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I don't use wood wicks either but wanted to mentioned also how pretty your rose is. Can't tell from the pic if it is a votive size or larger. Am visualizing how perfect they would be burning in a bathroom or powder room when guests come over....or just any time actually.

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I think this is the same rose. I make them in paraffin and also make them as gel floaters.

In paraffin, I make them flat on the bottom, and also pegged(to be used in taper holders). In paraffin, they measure approx. 4 1/2" D x 5" high. As a gel floater, they are 6" D x 5" high.

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I think this is the same rose. I make them in paraffin and also make them as gel floaters.

In paraffin, I make them flat on the bottom, and also pegged(to be used in taper holders). In paraffin, they measure approx. 4 1/2" D x 5" high. As a gel floater, they are 6" D x 5" high.

Looks like it could be the same one. That is a nice size. Can see these burning alone in a narrow, semi-low cylinder with some pebbles or gems on the bottom or several in a bowl.

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snowman - I can get you in the general direction, size etc but as always testing to get the look, etc will need to be done. I make my own and not sure there is a size out in the market place available. But if you give me the overall size of your flower, how much of it you want to melt (meaning do you want a pool ultimately encapsulated within the last set of petals, if so what is that diameter) I can give you a real close dimension to the size of wick you'd be looking for.

BTW - I like the concept.. it will give your flower a great look.

Something to think about... how are you planning on attaching the wick to the bottom? I would definitely do more or plan more than just sticking it thru the middle. You'll need something to support it and keep it upright as there doesn't appear to be enough unmelted wax to do it

good luck

Edited by Hardwood Wickster
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Hardwood - Many thanks for the reply & assistance offer. The rose in the photo is 4" dia. x 2" hgt. & a 1.5" base. I'll attach another photo of the base. I also have 2 additional roses (may have to send photos in a 2nd reply), the yellow is 4" dia. X 1.5" hgt. & a 2.5" base. The pegged rose is 4.5" dia. X 3" hgt. & a .75 base. I would think the ideal melt pool would be in the range of a .25" outside lip. Do you or would you sell me wicks for these? If no, your recommendation for a source.

J.Snow

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For a 3.5" dia melt pool, using bee's wax I would start with a width of 1/2", thickness of around .040" but may need to go a little bigger in both dimensions when its all said and done and thats with a hardwood species of wood. There a couple of different sources I know of that sells woodwicks but its been so long since i looked i hate saying where to go to look. I know one had dual pcs of wood stuck together... one hardwood, one softwood. It was thick and can only imagine how that looked and would burn.

Not to discourage you at all because i know i love how mine are and it does create quite a unique burning experience. I know wood wicked candles get a bad rap from others because of how some of the manufactured ones are inconsisant, dont burn and are hotter, etc, etc than the standard cotton versions. Plus human nature hates change and you get a lot of that as well, just read these boards close enough and will see that.

As far as getting them from me, I've thought long about just marketing the wicks themselves, make them in various sizes, thicknesses, etc so that anyone could have the vast variety to choose from (like with the cotton versions) and selling those straight up and might sometime. Mine are very consistant and vary only in the minor differences in crackling sounds from one to another (and thats based mostly on gum or sap pockets and water content of each pc of wood) because of the process i developed to keep them that way..... Anyway.. i am set up only to manufacture the three different sizes I have the need for and none of them are wide enough to melt enough wax to get the melt pool you are desiring.

Wish you luck and let me know if i can assist you further

Dave

Edited by Hardwood Wickster
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  • 2 weeks later...

glowworm - My apologies for overlooking your message and request. The yellow rose is from a mold obtained from Roses' Roses, I believe their new website is moldmakinghandyman. The dark orange is from Penguin Love Molds. If you can't find their web sites, let me know and I'll copy and send. Would do so now if I can figure how to open another link without kicking me out of this site.

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Hardwood - Searched everywhere for what I hoped would be quality wicks. Settled on Unity and sent them an email for advice re my rose candles. No reply, you would think in this economic environment a company would at least respond to any sales opportunity. So, I ordered from Unity based on their available descriptions. Received the wicks recommended for palm and others. Don't believe they had a wick specific for beeswax. Tried to order based on your guidelines. They are not 1/2 inch or .04 thick. Here is a photo of a test burn, this candle is not 100% beeswax. Flame is a little high, good crackle, melt pool was ok but could be a little larger. What do you think about putting 2 wicks together and a little offset to make up the 1/2 inch? Also, attached is a photo of apost-13400-13945849338_thumb.jpg

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Snowman - looks like a good start to me.... the height of your flame will be dependant on how much wood is sticking out beyond the wax, trim it tighter and you should have a smaller flame. Also i bet you the melt pool will be real close to the size your after if you left it burn awhile. This looks like its been burning for maybe 5 minutes before the picture was taken. Just by gauging thr picture you might be surprised and have the right size width of that wick already. I wouldn't do two wicks if it were me.. I do like the look that you have going on.

As far as how you inserted the wood into the wax using your homemade tool. That will work for starters but can only imagine what will happen once it gets closer to the end. I will always advise on attaching the wood to a base and the base attached to the bottom of your rose base. I assume you are making these wax roses. Please consider attaching the wood before making the rose, if thats possible. My fear is once you have a melt pool and the burn is closer to the bottom, the wooden wick will fall over and thus having a potential fire hazard or premature drowning out, etc

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You've got no idea how much I appreciate your assist. Looks like it would be a no-brainer for the sellers of products to be responsive, Can you imagine the prospective buyer of a new vehicle at a dealership and no one will answer questions. This example don't count, I know such has happened. I won't buy from Unity again, if I can find another source. The tool goes all the way through the rose, stick the wood wick out the bottom, attach a clip, push the clip into the rose with a little assist from another heat tool and you have a wood wick rose. I'll attached more photos soon.

I've got to work on inserting the wick before pouring the wax....

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Hardwood - First test burned beautifully. Next 2 test not satisfactory, didn't burn worth a flip. Can I soak these wood wicks in something that will give them a little better firepower? I think I about have the new ribbon wick figured out and will be ready to do a test next week. Have you looked at the ribbon wicks and do you have an opinion, advice or suggestions???

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Hey snowman, your roses look gorgeous! I worked a great deal with wooden wicks but I never tried them in beeswax, so I'm interested in learning about your experience. If you don't mind trying another type of wooden wick, I suggest the ones from BCN. Why I prefer them over the Unity is that they are a lot simpler (no oily treatment to dry out, no binding to stick the two wooden pieces together). They are sold in single pieces that you can double up to improve the burn when needed.

Hardwood Wickster, I am so impressed that you make your own wicks! I would love to experiment with them, however, I live in Australia and I will probably be getting out of the candle hobby before the end of the year (international move coming up). Best of luck to you :)

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snowman - it could be several reasons and would be hard to identify from here... but things to look into to maintain consistancy....

i would first try and rule out some things... idk how many wicks you have to play with but try burning some standing on end by themselves to see how consistant they are... if they aren't you'll never get them to burn right when added to wax... things I've found out are moisture content plays a big part. I never purchased any manufactured ones, so if they are coated, thats probably a good thing. Unless coated with something other than wax. anything else i would just be speculating as to what results you would find or experience... I always coat mine in the wax im using before i store them (in your case before you purchase them) i do this because i can keep them in their current state. I found that to be huge factor in consistancy. If you get them to burn consist then move on to the next test... and for god's sake dont burn down the house :)

If after pouring wax do you let them cure? minimum of one week to get consistant results.. this may be where the problem arises too

Are you keeping the same formula, fragrance and fo load, wax type, pouring conditions, etc, etc? if not, to know for sure you have to keep them the same until proven right

I suggest no color, no fragrance to start... just the wick and the wax... make up three or four and let them cure a week then try...

then add the wax with fo to three or four... wait a week and try

then add color if desired.. then try

i know it seems like a long way but you'll see its worth it in the end.. and you'll know where your problem arises now and in the future... and you may have already been down this road, idk... you may find it in step one with the wicks themselves or not curing long enough, only you can answer that. I'm just giving suggestions and ideas to think about. My guess its in the wicks, not to knock them but from reading other posts it ws the main reason i started making my own...

Sounds like Jonsie has some experience with purchased wooden wicks.. take her idea up about buying them from BCN and try... you can run tests side by side if you like.. it would save some time...

Jonsie - thanks for the compliment.. God knows i've had a lot of hard work into them to finally get it right. I know the wife and I love them, we burn 4 or 5 every night it seems... and the couple hundred others who have now purchased from us these past couple three months like them as well... its nice to see hard work pay off and exciting to see people get excited over them as i'm sure you all have with your products... Best of luck to you and in the move coming up

take care

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just trying to help.... you have to admit.. the wooden wick adds that extra special touch to it.... just get your ducks in a row, document where you are at and eliminate the variances. Wood wicks can be a pain but will be worth it and unique in the end once you have all the bugs worked out... i've been there where you are now...

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You are 100% right on. It's just finding a wood wick that's worth a hoot. The wood wick looks good in the rose, it's unique, creates interest and questions. I'm trying your suggestions, like dipping the wicks in extra hot beeswax (just a bit over 200 degs). Then I'll test one standing up alone. I have some that I got from Candlewic, if those suckers will burn after a beeswax dip - that will be an award winning formula.

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