Jump to content

2 questions: 1- What is an ideal ROC to aspire to? Is there one?


Recommended Posts

Using CB Advanced w/6-9% depending on the FO. and HTP or LX wicks. Although, that shouldn't matter if there is an ideal ROC. Also, I saw a picture posted of a finished candle and all that was left was a slight film and some still did not consider this a well made candle. I honestly can't say I have ever burned a candle that didn't have a least a slight film. Can I see a picture of what a candle is "supposed" to look like when it is burned? I almost stopped in my tracks when I saw that. I have been thinking I was finally getting my 16 oz apoths with a nice clean burn with a slight film, then only to read that it is NOT. UGH. I really should have started with a smalled container.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're happy with it, don't worry about what others say. Some want a crystal clear glass leftover but this is often a sign of an over wicked candle, (the glass gets too hot) A slight film is perfectly normal.... though my slight film and yours might be different, to me it is a film you can see through. Where was this picture you are talking about?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're happy with it, don't worry about what others say. Some want a crystal clear glass leftover but this is often a sign of an over wicked candle, (the glass gets too hot) A slight film is perfectly normal.... though my slight film and yours might be different, to me it is a film you can see through. Where was this picture you are talking about?

Yes, mine you can see through and a lot of the glass is clear, the picture was in the long thread regarding wicking 4" containers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you are overthinking this. Soy typically leaves a "film" on the glass as it burns down. Thats just normal for soy. Instead, you should think about wickicg for the wax to burn down to the bottom of the jar. Or, the wax should "catch up" and burn down to the bottom of the jar without tunneling, burning too hot, or leaving a sooty buildup near the top of the jar. As long as the wax is always "catching up" and burning down to the bottom you can't get much better than that.

If you don't like the filmy look soy leaves behind on the glass you could try another wax like palm. When I burn my Glass glow candles the jar looks clean like it just came out of the dishwasher. But you still have to learn how to use the wax and wick it properly etc.

If you like using soy I wouldn't worry about the film on the glass. Customers are not going to complain and soy is very popular right now. The more important thing is to learn to make a safe candle that burns well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Me....over thinking!!?? NEVAH! HAHAHA:laugh2: Tis the story of my life. Been over thinking a name for a year now. Anyway, thanks for that. I don't mind the film and people I have shared the candles with don't seems to mind. I have only had one complaint and that had to do with trouble lighting cause that jar was too tall. YAY. I feel much better now.:yay: I am still curious if there is a ROC I should be striving to reach. Thanks.

Edited by amyrose2712
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I first started out I thought that wax generally burned at the same rate per hour. Until I started experimenting with different waxes, FOs, jars, wicks, etc. If it helps I find that some waxes like soy tend to burn at a slower rate than paraffin or palm. But then I wasn't really going for the best ROC.

For me ROC is not my first priority. Once I get my candle combo down to the way I want it then I start testing for ROC. But mostly so I can put the info on my label. I am not overconcerned with as I want a candle that burns well safely. I often find that once I have this combo down it tends to also have the best ROC for that candle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I honestly can't say I have ever burned a candle that didn't have a least a slight film.

Think about it this way: when you drink a glass of water, there is no film left when the liquid is gone; BUT when you drink a glass of orange juice, there is a film left on the glass; when you drink a glass of milk, there is even more film; when you dirnk a milk shake it's an even thicker film. This relates directly to the viscosity and opacity of the liquid. Paraffin is translucent and quite thin - it leaves a very thin, transparent film. Palm wax leaves a slightly thicker, but still transparent film. Soy wax is thick and opaque - it leaves a film somewhere between milk and milk shake. If you wicked a soy candle to leave NO film or just a slight, almost transparent film, that container would have to be some kinda hot and chances are, you wouldn't be able to see through it anyway because there would be sooting.

The burn itself makes a difference. If I have a perfect burn in a Glass Glow container, the glass will be very "clean" - not like it came out of the dishwasher, but darned close. But perfect burns do not happen every day because of different FOs, air currents, etc. If a draft is blowing across the top of a container, you may even see a little soot.

There has to be a happy medium. I worry more about safety first (in terms of flame height and container heat), then hot throw than I do film on a container. My best suggestion if one can't stand film on containers is to make pillars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...