periwinkle Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 I am going to be making my first candles this weekend, and I have a question about the wicks. I ordered a starter kit for soy container candles. The wicks are ECO-10 (I don't know if that is pertinant info or not.) My question is this- the wicks each have a metal wicktab (I think that's what it's called) on the end. Is it normal to use this kind of wick in a container? I can't remember buying a jar or container candle with a metal tab at the bottom (but to be fair, I haven't bought many candles over the last few years.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deb426 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Yes, its not only normal, its necessary. Without the wick tab, your wick will not stand up for burning. You need to attach the wick tab to the bottom of your jar before pouring. There are various methods which have been discussed on the forum so you might do a search. I use GE silicone to attach mine and then pour the next day. There are other methods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
periwinkle Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 Thank you very much! Off to search now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmc Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 You can also use a hot glue gun...insert your wick through a hollowed out pen and put hot glue on tab then center it in jar and press down using the pen holder. This method is best only for testing purposes not for resale. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IwantItgreen Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 (edited) If you use a hot glue gun, be absolutely certain that you use the HIGH TEMP glue sticks. And if your glue gun has a high and low setting, use the HIGH. Edited November 4, 2011 by IwantItgreen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
periwinkle Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 I just noticed that my kit came with glue dots. I'm so excited to try this out!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Good luck, Periwinkle; let us know how it all works out for you :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Glue dots are okay for testing, but not for gifting or selling, but you're nowhere near that yet. When you begin testing, please take photos and make sure you tell us all the data about the candle - brand of wax used, wick brand/size, amount of FO used PP (or percentage), dye type/amt (if any), inside diameter & height of container, temp to which you heated the wax, temp at which you added the FO & temp at which you poured. ALL of those things matter! Be sure you have a scale and WEIGH your ingredients (ounces refer to weighed ounces, not measured fluid ounces).Read up on everything you can before pouring and write down what you do. Let your candle sit up a MINIMUM of 48 hours before lighting it to test. Test by trimming the wick to 1/4" before each burn and burn the candle for 1 hour for each 1" of inside diameter. Record your observations, such as flame height, hot throw, width & depth of MP at the end of each test burn and note any issues such as soot, smoke, flickering or dancing flame, mushrooming of wick, etc.Hope this helps you get started. Have fun! : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
periwinkle Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 Good luck, Periwinkle; let us know how it all works out for you :-)Thank you, I will!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
periwinkle Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 Glue dots are okay for testing, but not for gifting or selling, but you're nowhere near that yet. When you begin testing, please take photos and make sure you tell us all the data about the candle - brand of wax used, wick brand/size, amount of FO used PP (or percentage), dye type/amt (if any), inside diameter & height of container, temp to which you heated the wax, temp at which you added the FO & temp at which you poured. ALL of those things matter! Be sure you have a scale and WEIGH your ingredients (ounces refer to weighed ounces, not measured fluid ounces).Read up on everything you can before pouring and write down what you do. Let your candle sit up a MINIMUM of 48 hours before lighting it to test. Test by trimming the wick to 1/4" before each burn and burn the candle for 1 hour for each 1" of inside diameter. Record your observations, such as flame height, hot throw, width & depth of MP at the end of each test burn and note any issues such as soot, smoke, flickering or dancing flame, mushrooming of wick, etc.Hope this helps you get started. Have fun! : )Thank you for all of your tips and suggestions! I have been reading this site voraciously, and learning a lot, but I have no doubt I still have tons to learn.Just out of curiosity, why would glue dots not be okay to use for candles that are being gifted or sold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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