lmc Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 In one of my testers (16oz canning jar) using C3 (no CO or additives) and CDN20 (note to self-wick DOWN) as it is burning there are little air bubbles floating in the wax Is this just what C3 does? Not concerned too much about it but haven't seen that before in CBA or 464... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) What temp did you heat the wax to? What temp did you pour? If memory serves, you said in another post that you pour at a very low temp, but you didn't say how high the temp was that you heated the wax... C3 needs to be heated to 185°F You will notice at a certain stage of heating that some air bubbles will appear, usually around the rim of the melting container. These disappear at about 180°F. HTH Edited October 27, 2011 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmc Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 I do heat to 185*, fo 160*, smoothest top at pour temp of 110*...I have 4 other testers (different wicks-and pour temps) but I'm waiting a few more days to burn those to see how fo and ht is so I'll check for air bubbles on those as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seamist Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 (edited) Yes...C-3 can bubble like a glass of champagne. Somtimes pouring slower can help with the elimination of some of the "Bubbles". Edited October 28, 2011 by Seamist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deb426 Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 I use C3 and pour hot at around 165. Smooth tops, no air bubbles. If I pour cooler, I have problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmc Posted October 28, 2011 Author Share Posted October 28, 2011 Thanks everyone...time to pour new testers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 In one of my testers (16oz canning jar) using C3 (no CO or additives) and CDN20 (note to self-wick DOWN)What diameter jar is that? If it's 3", it's not just overwicked, it's WAY overwicked... If it's one of the newer, wider ones, a CDN 16-18 should work better... I use CDN 14 in 3" 8 oz. wide mouth containers and a CDN 12-14 in the 16 oz wide mouth, for comparison... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmc Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Overwicked is an understatement!! I made the mistake of trying to wick it like GB464 and I'm way off...So I tried your suggestions pertaining to wet spots (different thread) and the air bubbles, by pouring hotter at 160, lightly covering it, and prewarming the jar and I definetly had much better adhesion but the top is nowhere near as smooth and even as when I pour at 110* Don't know about the air bubbles yet, going to let this one cure for a week-seems C3 likes a little longer to cure. One of these days......:whistle: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 top is nowhere near as smooth and even as when I pour at 110*You still have uneven cooling going on then. Work on that. The tops I get at 165°F as equally as smooth and shiny as the ones I get at 110°F. It's all about cooling EVENLY.Some FOs are plenty strong after 48 hours, but I let my candles sit at least 5 days (usually a week) to be sure the FOs have been given ample time to "marry" into the wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deb426 Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 I pour at 160-165. I do not cover my candles when they are cooling. When I tried that, the tops were not smooth for me. You will have to try different things to find what works for you. Pouring hot without covering gets me smooth tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 This really varies a lot depending on the room temp, air currents, how close the covering is, the type of covering, etc. This is the point where people have to find what works in their individual environment by trial and error. One size DEFINITELY does not fit all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmc Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 thanks once again for all the advice...I loosely covered the jar with a paper towel and no air currents to really speak of-its a gorgeous 82* out here :smiley2:, but I will continue to try different things 1 AT A TIME lol.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deb426 Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 its a gorgeous 82* out here :smiley2:, Don't rub it in We're having a snow storm today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Don't rub it in We're having a snow storm today! I can't BELIEVE what I'm seeing on the news about that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitewing Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 I believe all wax contains air. It happened to me because I was cooling my candles too slowly. This gives the bubble a chance to gather rather than remain small. Covering them would only seem to slow the cooling even more. Have you tried to refrigerate? I refrigerate once the top of the candle has formed and the center is still liquid. This works with pillars in a tin mold. I do not know about glass. My psychiatrist won't let me play with glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 (edited) Have you tried to refrigerate?This is not an option with soy wax, which is extremely sensitive to temperature changes, particularly low temps. You want frost, stick that bad boy in the fridge and it'll show ya frost LOLThis is a characteristic of NatureWax C3 - it has to be heated beyond the point where the air bubbles are released to the surface and burst, or you'll see them again as "spit" in the MP. Edited October 31, 2011 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.