Jump to content

Palm wax information check


Recommended Posts

I have spent the last 3 weeks reading everything I can on palm wax. I plan on making votives, clamshell melts, and 3" pillars. I have read so much info and some of the posts I have read over and over. I just want to clarify. Yes, I am a control freak who has to have all the info!

I purchased my feather palm from BCN and every size of the RRD wicks. I chose RRD because that is what most people on their board seem to use. I also have most of the LX sizes. I don't have CSN because I am desperately trying not to add another supplier. Other than CSN are there other wicks I should consider?

From what I read:

Melt to just over 200 and add FO at 200. Pour close to 200 for best pattern. I poured at 157 in a plastic clamshell and did get a good pattern. :smiley2:

Pour into heated aluminum molds and cool slowly. Tap, tap, tap for air bubbles. Once a skin starts to form - wreck the tops to get rid of more air bubbles.

Questions:

For votives - I poured two. Is it better to pour to tippy top and wreck and then repour or better to pour to 1/4" or so below top and then wreck and repour? I did a test burn of a votive within 36 hours. It does burn wierd (a good wierd). I think my RRD 29 is too big or am I testing too soon? I am trying to make myself wait week before I burn the other one.

For pillars - I poured one. Should I heat gun the bottom after wrecking and cooling? I am trying to make myself wait week before I burn it.

Cure Time - Does palm need to cure for scent and hardness? I read so much I am confused.

Thanks a million!

Susan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not to make life more crazy but I use ECO wicks for my votives like I do with my palm container wax. I just had better luck with them. I use ECO 4 & 6 depending on the scent. BC has a sampler pack of these that really helps dial in on which size you need without spending a ton of $. I do RRD's for my whipped wax bakery candles and LX for my pillars with good results using the same feather palm from BC. Unfortunately I haven't been 100% thrilled with the tarts I have made using this wax but haven't had time to play with blending it with anything to see if I could get better long term HT. I seem to be only able to get a few hours out of each tart. I know my electric melter at work is a little on the hotter side but para/soy blends that I have gotten from friends seem to last much longer in it, even with my horrible case of candle nose that visits fairly frequently. Just a thought before you start making tons of them. Just make sure to test them well to make sure you are happy with them.

When I pour votives I usually pour to just below the top of the mold. that way I can break the crust before repouring to fill the air pockets that form but the pour line ends up in the crease where the "mushroom top" flair forms when I fill them. It makes it less noticable. I hope you understand/can visualize what I mean. For pillars I poke holes as it cools then do a repour to just where top of the crust from the original pour is. When I level the bottoms it takes care of any pour line I may create. Trying to heat gun it will probably make wax run down the side of the mold where the pillar shrinks back as it cools leaving you with a mess.

I have poured candles a couple of days before a show and had them be ok to go but they definitely get better with a little cure time. It is not nearly as finicky as soy can be if that is what you are asking. If I am testing I always give it atleast 24 hours before burning to give the wax a chance to harden up completely and give the crystalization a chance to finish forming. I know others might give it longer but that has worked for me in the 5 yrs I have been working with palm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use CDNs and CDs (when I can't get the right size CDN) for all my palm wax candles.

I pour to the top, wreck, repour, IF I am making one-color or layered votives. If I am making chunkies, I generally do not have to wreck.

I don't use heat guns on the bottoms. I insert the wick, then run the bottom over a hot surface (like an elctric frying pan) to set the wicktab and level.

I allow palm wax candles to cure for a week before finishing them. The hot throw benefits from curing, but I do it mostly to allow the newly formed wax to harden.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...