Palm wax information check

[sjconner]

I have spent the last 3 weeks reading everything I can on palm wax. I plan on making votives, clamshell melts, and 3" pillars. I have read so much info and some of the posts I have read over and over. I just want to clarify. Yes, I am a control freak who has to have all the info!

I purchased my feather palm from BCN and every size of the RRD wicks. I chose RRD because that is what most people on their board seem to use. I also have most of the LX sizes. I don't have CSN because I am desperately trying not to add another supplier. Other than CSN are there other wicks I should consider?

From what I read:

Melt to just over 200 and add FO at 200. Pour close to 200 for best pattern. I poured at 157 in a plastic clamshell and did get a good pattern. :smiley2:

Pour into heated aluminum molds and cool slowly. Tap, tap, tap for air bubbles. Once a skin starts to form - wreck the tops to get rid of more air bubbles.

Questions:

For votives - I poured two. Is it better to pour to tippy top and wreck and then repour or better to pour to 1/4" or so below top and then wreck and repour? I did a test burn of a votive within 36 hours. It does burn wierd (a good wierd). I think my RRD 29 is too big or am I testing too soon? I am trying to make myself wait week before I burn the other one.

For pillars - I poured one. Should I heat gun the bottom after wrecking and cooling? I am trying to make myself wait week before I burn it.

Cure Time - Does palm need to cure for scent and hardness? I read so much I am confused.

Thanks a million!

Susan

[mparadise]

Not to make life more crazy but I use ECO wicks for my votives like I do with my palm container wax. I just had better luck with them. I use ECO 4 & 6 depending on the scent. BC has a sampler pack of these that really helps dial in on which size you need without spending a ton of $. I do RRD's for my whipped wax bakery candles and LX for my pillars with good results using the same feather palm from BC. Unfortunately I haven't been 100% thrilled with the tarts I have made using this wax but haven't had time to play with blending it with anything to see if I could get better long term HT. I seem to be only able to get a few hours out of each tart. I know my electric melter at work is a little on the hotter side but para/soy blends that I have gotten from friends seem to last much longer in it, even with my horrible case of candle nose that visits fairly frequently. Just a thought before you start making tons of them. Just make sure to test them well to make sure you are happy with them.

When I pour votives I usually pour to just below the top of the mold. that way I can break the crust before repouring to fill the air pockets that form but the pour line ends up in the crease where the "mushroom top" flair forms when I fill them. It makes it less noticable. I hope you understand/can visualize what I mean. For pillars I poke holes as it cools then do a repour to just where top of the crust from the original pour is. When I level the bottoms it takes care of any pour line I may create. Trying to heat gun it will probably make wax run down the side of the mold where the pillar shrinks back as it cools leaving you with a mess.

I have poured candles a couple of days before a show and had them be ok to go but they definitely get better with a little cure time. It is not nearly as finicky as soy can be if that is what you are asking. If I am testing I always give it atleast 24 hours before burning to give the wax a chance to harden up completely and give the crystalization a chance to finish forming. I know others might give it longer but that has worked for me in the 5 yrs I have been working with palm.

[pixie]

I pour just a bit short of my fill line. I wreck the tops than do a very small repour. I use csn's and cdn's HTH

[Stella1952]

I use CDNs and CDs (when I can't get the right size CDN) for all my palm wax candles.

I pour to the top, wreck, repour, IF I am making one-color or layered votives. If I am making chunkies, I generally do not have to wreck.

I don't use heat guns on the bottoms. I insert the wick, then run the bottom over a hot surface (like an elctric frying pan) to set the wicktab and level.

I allow palm wax candles to cure for a week before finishing them. The hot throw benefits from curing, but I do it mostly to allow the newly formed wax to harden.