annamichelle10 Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Hi, I'm fairly new to making candles. Ive already made a few candles but they always frost and crack at the top. Ive tried heating my jars and it still frosted. Any advice? Im also interested in making palm wax pillars but i haven't bought the materials yet. Thanks : :tiptoe:Anna Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjdaines Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Welcome to the wonderful world of soy wax and soy candles. There are many kinds of soy wax available so don't judge all of them by the one you are using. Unfortunately, soy wax does have a tendency to frost and one has to manage it with their "system" Cracks and sink holes are the result of the cooling process and can also be managed, for me that is a hotter pout temp. There are other factors too that you did not mention, such as the hot throw/fragrance compatibility issue which you will, no doubt, experience at some point. Soy can be discouraging and I am glad that I also work with paraffin blends. Best advise is the research this forum and avoid reinventing the wheel if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 What kind of wax are you using?To what temp are you heating the wax?What temp are you adding FOs?What temp are you pouring?How are you cooling your candles?When you need help with a problem, we need to know all the details 'cause it matters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annamichelle10 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Im useing a soy wax i got from a local craft store. I'm about to purchase GB464 from peakcandles.com tomorrow.i heated the wax to 180 f then added F.O.I started pouring at about 150 then went down to about 105. This helped drastically with the tops. I cool them in the microwave i just set them in there with it turned off.I understand im new at this so bear with me ( haha ). I'm a fast learner though. Expecialy when it comes to things i enjoy doing. My cold throw is great but my hot throw wasn't so good so i remeasured my f.o when doing my third candle and let it cure for 4 days and my hot throw was better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 (edited) HooBoy... All soy wax is NOT created equal, so I have no idea what to suggest about your craft store brand (unless they will tell you what brand of wax it is). Before ordering, I'd suggest that you read up on the different kinds of soy waxes available out there. People frequently hop from wax to wax only to find out that all of them have deficiences of some kind or another. The hopping insures that the new candlemaker won't work with any one wax long enough to learn much about its properties.I forgot to ask you how much FO you used? Did you get that at the craft store, too? What about your wicks? What kind and what size?Cooling in the microwave is NOT the worst idea I've ever heard so long as you are only cooling a couple or three small candles. Your regular oven is a better choice because it's bigger. There is such a thing as cooling too slowly and too many (or too large) candles in an enclosed space will cause problems. During the summer, all you really need to cool your candles is a draft-free area (no fans, ceiling fans, AC or AC vents, etc.). Cool them on a wire cookie rack so there is air circulation all around the candle. Don't cluster them too closely.Before you give up on using dye (your other thread) after making only a few candles, get some good quality, reliable materials with which to work. Read up on the materials you are using and do your homework BEFORE you order!! Just because a candle making supplier carries a product is no guarantee it's a good one for your candle system. Some soy waxes do best when poured at very cool temps; others need to be poured much hotter. Some soy waxes are more prone to frosting issues (depending on how they are handled) than others. Some soy waxes look beautiful but can't throw their way out of a paper bag. Many folks who use soy give up on dye because they simply will not take the time and effort to discover how to avoid frosting in their candles. Polymorphism a constant issue with nearly all soy waxes (and the one or two where it ISN'T a big issue, the hot throw IS...). Just because you pour dye-free candles doesn't mean the wax will not frost... it can frost, cauliflower, "grow" during storage and a variety of other interesting tricks. Dye is NOT the only factor that causes frosting - FOs are the real culprit most of the time. The dye simply allows one to SEE the frosting more clearly. If you don't want to fool around with learning how to reduce/avoid frosting issues, use a parasoy. When you pour candles, the idea is to keep the pouring temp constant, not range from 150° - 105° !! No wonder your results were inconsistent! I can understand your wanting to experiment to find out what works best for you, but the way to do this is in a careful, methodical fashion, not just let the temp drop as you pour without recording which one was poured at which temp, etc. Read up on how to test candles.Pouring quality candles takes a LOT of practice. It is NOT as simple as following some suggestions on a website nor just heating the wax, adding FO, stick in a wick and pour. There's a LOT of knowledge and finesse that goes along with making consistently good candles. Besides learning about candle making, you have to test your products carefully. This is very time consuming and costs money. There are no short cuts. My best suggestion to noobs is to choose a smaller sized candle when learning the ropes. Starting out with one & two pounders is a fool's errand because it takes so long to test them! If you are new, you don't really even know what you are looking for, so make your life easier at first and choose a round, straight-sided container no more than 3" in diameter (slightly less is better) that is not much taller than it is wide. Be sure to choose a container that is manufactured for candle making use - nothing used & abused or el cheapo. The Dollar store has some decent glass. Most WalMarts carry some Libbey or Anchor-Hocking glass. Many folks use glass canning jars for learning. Don't choose containers with wide shoulders and narrow mouths or ones that taper. The idea is for you to learn to walk before you run and it's a lot easier to learn to walk on solid ground than on a sailboat.My very best suggestion is for you to really STUDY and read, read, read while you are awaiting some better quality materials. The Google site search tool and you should become best friends! Good luck! HTH remeasured my f.oPS... get a good quality scale. Candle ingredients are weighed, not measured. Edited July 15, 2011 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annamichelle10 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 I haven't gotten a scale yet. I have to order it off the Internet. And the soy wax I bought jut says microwavable soy wax made by yaley. And I was measuring by useing the caps of 1 oz bottles. Not very professional I know. But with the money situatuation it had to wait . And the f.o.s aren't the greatest quality but hobby lobby didn't carry much. I'm going to order some oils from peaks soon. And I've read alot about GB415 and c3 and some others I researched for about 2 months before I bought my materials. What kind of scale do you recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annamichelle10 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 I'm useing 8oz mason jars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 (edited) I understand enthusiasm and I understand a tight budget! I think your first candles look great despite a few small booboos on the tops. Shipping adds to the cost of everything, so if there are suppliers in your area of Texas, you can save a lot of money shopping locally when you can. Having said that, there are some suppliers who carry certain items - particular FOs, etc. that are worth the extra money. Peak's carries some FOs that I cannot be without! If you can at least buy your wax locally, you'll be a ton of money ahead! If you are within driving range of Lone Star (Keller, TX), they have a lot of good stuff! This place has a LOT of scales (has an eBay store, too) and pretty good prices...http://www.oldwillknottscales.com/I bought mine from Lone Star and got the AC adapter to go with it. If I were simply weighing candle stuff, I would have chosen something more accurate on the small-quantity end, but I use mine for all kinds of things besides candles, so I needed one with a higher weight range.I use 8 oz. widemouth mason jars and find them a breeze with which to work. I also use hex jars, Status (metro) jars and some others, but the 8 oz. widemouth is our ol' reliable. Some folks don't like the raised lettering and primative look of a canning jar, but they are great to learn on, easy to find and relatively inexpensive. Edited July 15, 2011 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faerywren Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 Craft store supplies are, by and large, crap. Peaks is wonderful, you'll love them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annamichelle10 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 I agree that's the kind I'm using. I bought 4 pound of wax from micheals ( local craft store ) it was $21 and not even quality wax so I looked around online and found it was cheaper. Waco doesn't give a very big selection of candle materials. Peaks was my first choice to order from. I've read many reviews from happy customers. I get so excited making candles I want my work to show threw. I also make beaded jewelry so I thought about decorating my jars with a few strands of jewels. And some pretty ribbon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 Peak is a wonderful supplier, but when shipping wax, one should check out the closest suppliers for the best overall pricing. You have several in Texas that carry nearly every kind of soy wax there is. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annamichelle10 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Thank you for the advice. I'll certainly check into that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annamichelle10 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 (edited) I'm working on my cold and hot throw now. Cold it excelant. Hot im not sure. I'm going to test burn today. Ive let cure since monday. When ordering my new wax which would you recomend for soy and palm (if you use it) I wantto also start pillars. Edited July 15, 2011 by annamichelle10 Bad spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjdaines Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 For container I use soy or a soy/paraffin blend, there are lots of choices out there. I know there are plenty of palm users here but I don't see a that of choices (blends) and some suppliers have stopped carrying it. That said, I am experimenting with it for pillars along with Eco-Soya PB and IGI-4625 (paraffin). It's easy to get distracted and want to try everything but that just dilutes one's efforts and little progress is made. I can't make a specific recommendation about which soy wax for you to get, there are so many and none appear to be perfect. I have the following: GW: 444, 464; Eco-Soya: CB-Advanced. I work mainly with GW-464. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annamichelle10 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 I started with paraffin. Then switched to soy. Soy is more of a struggle for me. Which put more excitement in it. I love the challenge. I've read about Eco-soya. You use it with your pillars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjdaines Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 I started with paraffin. Then switched to soy. Soy is more of a struggle for me. Which put more excitement in it. I love the challenge. I've read about Eco-soya. You use it with your pillars?Glad to hear that you like a challenge because that is soy wax's middle name I think. If I was just making candles for my self all of these issues (frosting, wet spots, FO throw) would not be a problem but it seems that many of us want to sell too and that leads to the search for the perfect product. Seems that many here are at that point but us newbies need to pay our dues and get to soy heaven on our own path. My pillars are either palm or paraffin. The Eco-Soya PB wax, for me, makes great votives but lousy pillars. If I want to spend months working out a system of wicks for it I might be successful but I don't have the time or the desire to do that. I like the looks of paraffin pillars and there are a lot of FO choices that work with it. As for palm, I am just starting to work with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 The Eco-Soya PB wax, for me, makes great votives but lousy pillars.Couldn't have said it better than that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annamichelle10 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 I want to start with the starburst palm. I love the look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 One thing at a time, grasshopper. Palm wax is another animal entirely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annamichelle10 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 I get ahead of myself sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wessex Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 If you decide to try a Palm wax for pillars, I would suggest Feather Palm. It is much easier to work with IMO. Shrinks much less in the mold and I have learned how to make it almost a one pour wax (but the base must be trimmed a bit). Starburst is definately not a one pour wax. I have also found Feather a bit easier to wick than Starburst. That is just my experience. You can also make a Featherburst by mixing up to 50% Starburst into Feather Palm. There are many good threads about wicking palm wax pillars here, if you can get the search to work. I use CSN wicks for palm, but CDN's are supposed to be just as good (I believe Stella uses those).Cheers,Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annamichelle10 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Thanks for all the advise guys. I write everything down in my purple journal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazzie Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 That would be really a neat candle. I was in the same vote you were, yes you have to read read and read! Test and Test. I am almost done with testing I'm hoping for a great miracle on my next batch. I think I have ordered from every candle shop in the area trying to get that perfect candle. Good luck on your new adventure - it's fun! Make sure your order for some sample pacs of wicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annamichelle10 Posted July 16, 2011 Author Share Posted July 16, 2011 Ive got everything down but my hot throw. I Yhink I need a better quality fo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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