Beeswax Question

[Copper]

I'm going to try to make beeswax votives and read on another site that heating the wax in aluminum pots will ruin the wax. I was wondering if anyone else had heard of this and if I should use glass instead?

Thanks, Sharon

[ChrisR]

Hmmmmmmmm never heard that. I've been making beeswax taper candles for years and always use my aluminum pour pots to melt the wax without any problems.

[Copper]

Thanks Chris, that's what I was hoping. I've searched the archives and on the web, but there just isn't that much about making beeswax candles.

Sharon

[celicagtca]

I'm going to try to make beeswax votives and read on another site that heating the wax in aluminum pots will ruin the wax. I was wondering if anyone else had heard of this and if I should use glass instead?

Thanks, Sharon

Hey Cooper,

Have always used aluminum pots for melting my beeswax without a problem. Just make sure your using a double boiler. Do not put aluminum pot on direct burner as it will not only destory your wax, but will more than likely catch on fire.

HTH

[hem06]

I use a crock pot for heating my beeswax. High until melted, then use the "keep warm" setting.

Been doing this for years.

[Copper]

Thanks all!

I'm still pretty new at this and was wanting to try different waxes. I was reading the posts in the archives (and looking at HenryK's wonderful pictures) of beeswax candles and got hooked.

Sharon

[Cetacea]

I'm going to try to make beeswax votives and read on another site that heating the wax in aluminum pots will ruin the wax. I was wondering if anyone else had heard of this and if I should use glass instead?

Thanks, Sharon

Nope won't ruin the wax, might ruin the pot if you leave it in there for a couple of weeks. I found that out when I forgot where I put my pouring pot (don't ask it was chaos..LMAO).

Beeswax votives are easy to make actually. Just make sure you use square braid or flat braid wicking and use mold release or PAM. I prefer PAM, its cheaper.

Beeswax doesn't need any additives. So don't bother with vybar, stearine..etc. The melting point is around 158 degrees making it a hard wax already. The fragrance load can be anywhere from 6-15% depending on how filtered the wax is and if it was chemically treated (aka white beeswax is sometimes chemically filtered to get it white).

The largest problem you are going to have with straight beeswax is coloring and wicking it correctly. Colors are going to vary since you are working with a yellow/gold base instead of white. So make sure you do a drop test. Of course anything you want blue is going to take more dye since yellow and blue make green.

Remember when you are looking at wicking charts they are based on paraffin, not beeswax (even square braid). So you definately need to test and probably go up a size or two than what is suggested.

HTH. Good luck!

[Copper]

Thanks all for the help!

I made the votives using just the beeswax and 3% fragrance (Peaks French Vanilla) and no dye. I had to put them in the fridge for a bit to get the wick pins out, but they came out of the votive cups alright - thanks to a liberal dose of Pam spray. I understand now about not leaving any beeswax in the pouring pot - it was difficult enough trying to clean it right away!

And now for the test burning-

Thanks again

Sharon