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Melt Pool Question


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How important is it to have a full melt pool on your first test burn? I've read a few varying opinions in old threads and am looking for some advice. I tested two 14oz round tumbler containers today, IGI 4627, 6% FO, one dye chip. One had LX-20 and the other HTP 83. Both had fantastic HT; however, after three hours, neither had a full melt pool. The HTP 83 seemed to be doing better as it had no mushroom. The LX20 was starting to shroom a little.

Thanks.

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I've always been told it's not SUPER important to have a full melt pool on the first burn - because as you subsequently burn it down farther, the heat that collects will ultimately melt any hangup towards the top of the jar. And in my test burns I've found this to be true (and if it's not, I wick up until it is). I also use HTPs with 4627, in both 7.75 oz and 12 oz jars (2.69" and 3.19" in diameter, respectively). The 83s work great in FOs that I need to wick up on in the smaller jars. So as long as your hangup isn't more than a centimeter or 2 thick, you should be fine. If it is, I'd suggest wicking up a size. HTH!

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Thanks for the replies. I tried my second 3-hr test burn this morning, and the HTP83 melt pool didn't get any wider, just deeper. The LX20 got a little wider and deeper as well, but still has that ugly shroom blooming on the end. I'm sure it's probably too soon to tell, but would you be inclined to think maybe the HTP83 is too small? Of course, I'll keep burning all the way to the bitter end to see what's going on.

On a side note, I am really pleased with the 4627. I've poured four containers so far, preheated two and two just room temp. All four have beautiful adhesion -- not a single wet spot so far. And all four have excellent CT/HT. Maybe I've found my wax?!?

Now, if only I can get that darned wicking thing down...

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I've always been told it's not SUPER important to have a full melt pool on the first burn - because as you subsequently burn it down farther, the heat that collects will ultimately melt any hangup towards the top of the jar. And in my test burns I've found this to be true (and if it's not, I wick up until it is). I also use HTPs with 4627, in both 7.75 oz and 12 oz jars (2.69" and 3.19" in diameter, respectively). The 83s work great in FOs that I need to wick up on in the smaller jars. So as long as your hangup isn't more than a centimeter or 2 thick, you should be fine. If it is, I'd suggest wicking up a size. HTH!

Oh, just reread your reply. Sounds like I may need to wick up on the HTP next time (I'll finish testing first, though, to be sure). The diameter of my container is just over 3 inches.

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Oh, just reread your reply. Sounds like I may need to wick up on the HTP next time (I'll finish testing first, though, to be sure). The diameter of my container is just over 3 inches.

You might want to try a 104 or a 105...I use 105's in my 3.19" diameter jars when the FO doesn't require wicking up :) It's so hard to even pick a starting point when all the suppliers' sites give different diameters!

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You might want to try a 104 or a 105...I use 105's in my 3.19" diameter jars when the FO doesn't require wicking up :) It's so hard to even pick a starting point when all the suppliers' sites give different diameters!

That's the truth! I started with the 83 because that's what Candle Science's Wick Guide said to do... I also tested the LX based on their guide's recommendation, too.

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That's the truth! I started with the 83 because that's what Candle Science's Wick Guide said to do... I also tested the LX based on their guide's recommendation, too.

That's exactly what I did! Candlescience told me to start with a 52 for my smaller jar and an 83 for my larger one - they didn't even come close! Now I start testing with a 73 and a 105 and I go up from there (although those two work with nearly all my scents). Love them for their FOs...the wick guide, not so much :rolleyes2

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