Jump to content

Frosting in GB 464 in shop candles


Recommended Posts

I have my candles in a few boutiques and I am finding that the flourescent light is making most of my candles frost even though they were not that way to begin with. I know that soy is very sensitive to light and heat, but is there anything I can add to help prolong the shelf life of the dye?? Will the UV inhibitor help at all? Thanks for any suggestions!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you sure they're frosting, or could they just be fading from the lights? If they're frosting it could simply be from time and/or environmental conditions. In any event, you should probably be using UV inhibitor. It doesn't take long for dye to fade from light exposure, so it's just a good idea in general.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If definitely looks like frosting to me....in a very bad way...entire candle. I have seen some of my purples fade at outdoor shows right in front of me to a greyish color, but the shop candles definitely looked frosted to me. I currently do not add anything to my 464 wax, but the FO and dye chips, but I do put in extra chips for vibrant colors. I will give the UV inhibitor a try. Thanks for responding!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Yep also have major frosting with 464 (I now no longer colour as a result). Tried various things to stop the frosting but haven't found anything that works - so if anyone has any suggestions.:confused: Have seen some great pure soy coloured and wish I could do the same. I did find higher pour temps helped a little but still had frosting issues. I used liquid dyes as well.

Also tried the UV -stops the colour fading but not the frosting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I now temper my 464 and have eliminated all the frosting. I have some candles that are over a year old and they still look new. (Although, I don"t color my candles, no additives...just uv). I know tempering can lead to heated discussions, but it sure does work for me. Tempering (for me) however, does not always ensure pretty tops. But that dry, frosty look is long gone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Of course. The process is just as I have seen recommended on this forum: Heat to 125 degrees, Cool to 100, Heat to 115 and pour. The jars must be warm for proper adhesion. This works for me. Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...