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1274 Problems & Alternatives


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I've been reading back through 2005 messages on using IGI 1274 and wanted to start a new thread to get some up to date info and wisdom on using it, or why to switch.

Example: http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9396&highlight=1274

I'm wondering:

- Top, seems as of maybe 07 you no longer say that there's no way to make high quality mottles with 1274. Curious as to why... figured out a formula, wax changed, got tired of people using it anyway ;)

- The main problem seems to be a "low" melt point leading to bulging pillars. However, 140F is about the highest MP I see sold apart from hurricane or wick wax. Candlewic's 4045H is the only real alternative I see and it's about 140 also. Is there, easily found, anything better?

I live near Candle Science so I think I'll try to make the best of 1274.

- Some early threads came to a solid conclusion that stearic alone would work, but that FT Wax (paraflint, clear crystals, translucent crystals) at about 1% was the best way to overcome 1274 (or 1343) softness. What's the current thought on that?

And, if it's still a good idea, any suppliers recommended? I don't see it at Candlewic any more, just Gloss Poly C15 which is different and makes wax opaque.

Microcrystalline wax was mentioned here and there - anyone still argue for its usefulness in reducing bulge or seepage-during-burning?

That's about it. Though would also be interested in wicking 1343 vs 1274, as they're often said to be the same or similar, but I find the latter needs wicks two sizes down to burn about th same.

The TBSP vs Percent thing is also a hindrance trying to compare advice. Best I can deduce, 3 T of Stearic is 5-6%, depending on the "grind" of your bag of stearic.

There also seems to be disagreement as to whether anything makes a mottling candle seep less during a burn, after curing. I can't say my own experiments have conclusively proven that 343 or stearic do anything about that. Just that IGI is full of it claiming "up to 6%", and that 2-4% depending on FO is more realistic.

Thanks for any help.

PS - One of the more amusing and inspiring threads was one showing how a lot of commercial pillars burned, and conversely, how good most of our "rejects" actually are. I have solid enough recipes to use that I bought my first case of 1274, but am too curious about the craft to let it rest at that.

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When it comes to sweating when warm, it comes down mostly to the paraffin blend, the amount of fragrance oil, and the amount of mottling.

When it comes to the bulge, it's the paraffin blend, the amount of fragrance oil, and the burn quality (low burn rate + wide melt pool = big bulge). A certain amount of stearic will also start to decrease the bulge, but adding enough to make a big difference could have drawbacks.

Almost all of those factors are under your control, so good luck. The only thing you don't control is the paraffin blend. Understanding, locating and utilizing the materials is a long road. As you observed, CW 4040H is probably the next logical thing to test. That wax and IGI 1274A may be the only mottled pillar pre-blends you can easily get; beyond that there are only generic paraffins.

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I think I'll make the best I can of 1274, and it does seem like decent material for full mottles, but for bulging in some (most?) situations. Not as bad as 1343 though.

I looked at the shipping on 1218 and Candlewic, and I'd be paying almost double vs. being able to pick up locally.

What could work is getting a slab of something like 1260 and using it to raise the MP, but given the price I'm happy enough with results so far. I'm even getting no-drip tapers with LX-12 and 2% stearic 1274 in the 1/2"x4" "spell candle) size.

Cheap fun will be trying tiny amounts of Vybar 103.

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Have you tried the IGI 1302 mottle pillar wax? That is what I like in terms of beautiful and constant mottle. I've yet to find a fo that will not mottle well in it. It is a blend so has steric etc in it already. I've used mottle max to allow for fo loads up to 8% with excellent success. In a 3" diameter I use a 1/0 square braid cotton. :)

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I'd love to standardise on something with a little higher MP, though a search through google shows that 1302 was Astorlite M38, and I can't even find data for it. But, with shipping costing as much as the wax for any other mottling blend, then unless I simply cannot get good results from 1274, I need to figure out how best to use it.

It works quite well for the most part, even with no additives I get perfect 3" pillars with 3% and LX-18 that have barely a bulge. But, scent throw and hardness, as well as control of amount of mottling, are going to take some work.

I tried 1% translucent crystals and 2% stearic and 3% lavender FO (left over mix) and got totally opaque wax. I guess leave the stearic out. Made a nicely burning votive with LX-10, though.

Two goals: Fully mottled, less bulge, more scent (throw, not necessarily FO amount)

and later: Partial mottle and/or "glow candle" translucency with no mottle.

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What I have found with the 1274 is that to much stearic takes away the mottle. I use just 1 TBS per lb, 1 oz oil, and heat to 190 or so and the mottle is still good.

I measured my two types of stearic, and 1 TBS is either 7.6 or 8.1g, so either way you're recommending about what I've been using, 2%. 1% didn't do much of anything, and at 3% I need to move up a wick size for the same burn.

Hardening it enough to help with the bulge took 7% and, yes, it's beginning to become an opaque pillar rather than a mottled one at that level. 10% killed mottling completely. Even if more FO would make it mottle, the base color has become opaque enough it wouldn't much matter.

However, with 0-2% stearic, I can't get more than about 1/2oz oil in there, and it is still prone to bulging. Not always, but a bit touchy. I'll assume from what you and others have said, that there are FOs out there that it'll take a ounce of. I'll be doing a lot of testing, so if any are really dry at 3% (1/2oz) I'll try a bit more.

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