itsmejeffd Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 I understand that some of you use a heat gun to level off container candles but my question is this: How do you heat the top of the candle enough to level the candle wax without taking the priming wax off the wick? BTW, I'm experimenting with Comfort Blend, J50, J223 and Crafter's Choice SP in 16oz square mason jars. Everything but the J223 has needed a second pour.Also, any recommendations for heat guns would be greatly appreciated.Thank you so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvcandleguy Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 You may singe the wax coating a little, but the best way to use the heat gun is by moving it constantly in small circles. It will get it hot enuff to smooth out, but wont do too much damage. As for suggestions, WalMart has a single temp heat gun in the paint department. Its a Wagner and it runs around 20 bucks. You can also get em at any home improvement store(ie lowes or home depot), but they run a little higher. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fern Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 It also helps to keep on what ever device you use to hold your wick in place when you are heat gunning the top. If you don't, your coating on the wick softens some and then falls over. Try your best not to direct the heat directly on the wick itself...kind of work it from the sides if you can. Also, open up the hole you're trying to fill in to a larger diameter, this way you won't have to go back and reheat again and can fill it in in one shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judette Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Also double check your 223 pours. Mine lately have looked grat on top after cooling - but, when I poked ther was a huge tunnel about one half to one inch under smooth surface. I am pouring an oddly shaped jar and in a cool environment. But even heating jars, hitting jars with heat gun as cooling, etc. still when fully cooled - big tunnel around wick. I poked with a skewer to find the tunnel. Hopefully you don't have the same problem. Like I said oddly shaped jar. It is approx. 6" at bottom and 3" at top. Been a buggar to wick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaybee23 Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 When I have to heatgun the tops, to keep from melting the wax on the wicks, I have made little caps out of foil that help protect them a bit. Most of the time though it really can't be helped. But like was already mentioned, to keep from toasting them too bad, keep the heatgun moving around, not positioned directly on the wicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Realistically, your can get a pricey variable-temperature heat gun or you can decide you don't care about melting the priming wax. I think the latter is what most people do.Another possibility is to practice when and how to do that second pour to get the nicest looking result. It doesn't have to be perfectly flat to look nice and professional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 there are times when I have to increase the size of the hole a little to get the wick to go thru so I let the wick priming run down into the hole to fill it in. Then just dip the tip of the wick into some molten wax to reprime it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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