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Shortening & Shea Sudsy Soap???


Sharon in KY

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Never get an answer in the B&B recipes section so hoping this section can help. Thanks..

Shortening & Shea Sudsy Soap by MichelleB

Vegetable Shortening = 40%

Coconut Oil = 16%

PKO Flakes = 15%

Castor Oil = 12%

Rice Bran Oil = 10%

Shea Butter = 7% (or sub with Mango butter, it's delish!)

Additives I used for 2 lb batch:

"Q" of Silk Fibers (I call it a "Q", it's a Q-tip amount)

2 T. Sugar (dissolved in the milk prior to mixing w/Lye)

1 tsp. Salt (dissolved in the milk prior to mixing w/Lye)

Subs: If you don't have RBO, you could sub some Olive oil or omit it altogether and increase your other ingredients (maybe split the increase between the shea and pko). Just be sure you double-check your amounts through a good lye calculator.

Superfat: I did a 4.5% superfat on this recipe because I used full Goat Milk as the flluid and didn't want the extra fat from the milk to interfere with my suds negatively. This way, I got a really creamy lather with a lot of bigger bubbles too, instead of just the creamy by itself. Hope that makes sense!

If you decide to try this, I'd love to hear what you think!

Well I made this recipe using everything as stated. Only thing is I'm not sure it was right the way I did it. Have never made CP soap only MicroWave and CPOP and HP. But thought I'd give it a try. Doesn't look right to me but...

At MMS I put the % of each ingredient. Here is what I got.

5.76 castor

7.68 coconut

7.2 palm kernal

4.8 rice bran

3.36 shae

19.2 soybean

6.7 lye

used 16 oz water (8oz had goat milk pw)

1tesp salt

2tab sugar

1/4 tesp of silk powder

Everything was cooler before I got started.

Stirred by hand before I could find my stick blender.

It never did get hot or clabbered looking,

just creamy and thickened. I'm sure it won't turn out.

So if after awhile it doesn't turn to soap, what will fix it?

Just doesn't seem like enough lye. so what do you think?

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CP was what I was going for, was thick and creamy. Went in the mold, it's out tonight and cut. So CP doesn't go through all the boiling up and stiring down that HP does. You just stir until thick and pour into mold? Then wait for weeks to use? right? Give me HP any day..... I think I'll re-batch a couple of bars so I can try them tomorrow. I didn't add scent so that will be a way to scent a few bars. Scenting is the hardest part for me. I have over 150 scents but can't decide which to use. Lily of the Valley is my favorite soap and it doesn't turn brown. Dammmmm I gave it to Dee to use, it was SweetCakes, now what? SC's Herbal Essences now that smells good. See you later.

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yeeep.. I use wood molds so yeah, pour... let sit 12ish hours (kinds depends on the recipe), slice and let cure 4 weeks min. but some take longer. I let my castile which is just olive oil, water, and lye cure for 6 months. I want to try HP sometime because I am intrigued by the idea of using it right away!

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Kinda.

You mix until it's completely emulsified and begins to thicken. I pour mine before it's pudding - more like heavy cream, but judging when to pour takes practice.

You can use it once it's "zapless". In the mold it may heat up (especially if you insulated the mold with towels or blankets) and gel in which case it's probably ready to unmold within 12 hours. If it didn't gel it could take a few days, actually.

Once it's hard you can unmold it and cut it. Go ahead at that point and touch your tongue to it. If it's nasty and just tastes soapy then you are good. If it feels like you've put your tongue to the terminals of a 9v battery then it needs a few more days. Once you don't get that battery zap, you really CAN use the soap, but it'll get milder and better over the next 2-4 weeks.

Go ahead - try them tomorrow. YOU can use them if they are safe - just not ready for prime time.

Edited by CareBear
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If it feels like you've put your tongue to the terminals of a 9v battery then it needs a few more days. Once you don't get that battery zap, you really CAN use the soap, but it'll get milder and better over the next 2-4 weeks.

Go ahead - try them tomorrow. YOU can use them if they are safe - just not ready for prime time.

castile with water reduc = EPIC zap. I never knew what people were talking about with the zap test until that day.... yikes

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dont really know what to say? I've been making this castile with my grandma for 20 years. She always has it around, as do I... There were no such thing as soap calcs when she started making it but I've run it through one since, and her recipe (42 olive, 5.3oz lye, and 9.5 water).. works out to around a 30% reduc and a 5% superfat.

Thing is, I've never once thought of licking it.. I had no idea what a zap test even was, until I came on here and read about it.. so one day after cutting a batch I licked it and... zap. Its my only soap I've ever felt a zap with, so I assumed it was the water reduc and the fact that I had just cut it and it was really only a few hours "old". Checked it again a few days later and no zap... but I still let them cure 6 months because, well... thats what she does.

Edited by LuminousBoutique
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Yeah its really nice I got to learn from her :) She scares the crap out of me when she soaps though... no gloves, mixes her lye on the kitchen counter along with everything else.. soaps while she cooks dinner.. lol. Shes nuts. :laugh2:She just says "I havent burned myself yet!" yeah grandma.. theres a first for everything

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Yeah its really nice I got to learn from her :) She scares the crap out of me when she soaps though... no gloves, mixes her lye on the kitchen counter along with everything else.. soaps while she cooks dinner.. lol. Shes nuts. :laugh2:She just says "I havent burned myself yet!" yeah grandma.. theres a first for everything

Her name's not Nancy, is it? :laugh2:

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