Boy, is this ever basic !

[pzwiz]

After scouring many websites, catalogs etc. there is one question I have not been able to find an answer to:

What wax/wick combination is best for fulfilling a candle's original purpose, Light Production.

I have a number of 1 pound candle Jars which I have cleaned and would like to re-use for this purpose.

I don't care about appearance, smell or any other cosmetic factors. I would just like to know how to get the most light out of a candle.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Thank you for your kind attention.

Adolph

[Stella1952]

What wax/wick combination is best for fulfilling a candle's original purpose, Light Production.

There is no ONE answer to that question because there are so many waxes and wick combos... Another member was asking about this because he does historical reenactments...

http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84334

... he found that using hemp twine gave the brightest light.

[pzwiz]

Thank you very much Stella.

As luck would have it, my containers look very much like the one in your Avatar. Mine are 4" in Diameter at the shoulder and also 4" high to the fill line.

After reading the thread mentioned in your reply, I did a little more research and found what I Think (having zero knowledge in this subject) might be a good combination for starters.

Peak makes a parrafin wax esp. for container candles, and the same site ( IGI Waxes ) suggests the "LX" wicks for this purpose also.

I am thinking of using a wick a couple of sizes larger than the suggested size, since my guess is that the recommended size is a compromise of burn time and brightness.

I know that there are many variables, but I would like to know if the above is a reasonable starting point.

I will also try the Hemp twine on a couple of candles just to see which works better.

Just to show how really ignorant I am on the subject:

When I asked this question I thought that I would get answers like " Hey dummy, everybody knows you've got to use such and such", since candles have been used for lighting purposes for thousands of years.:smiley2:

I very much appreciate your kind reply and forbearance.

Adolph

[Darbla]

If you use a wick too large, it can overheat your container and burst it.

It's cool to see LX wicks recommended by IGI. I like them but very few other people seem to use them.

[chuck_35550]

You most likely would have to double wick that container but that would double the output of light. Container candles are designed with fragrance output in mind and not much in the way of light production.

Edited September 9, 2009 by chuck_35550

[Stella1952]

Modern candles have come a long way from their original use for light. In earlier times, sconces were used to increase light output by the use of mirrors for reflecting the light. Obviously, an undyed candle will have more light output than a colored candle.

Heed well the advice to not overwick the container. Not only will this increase the heat output to an unsafe level for the glass container, it will also increase the liklihood of sooting on the inside of the container which won't help the light output at all! For best light output, I think undyed pillar candles burned in a glass hurricane seem to have the most light output (at least on my porch!). I use palm wax for mine, but I'm sure you could use any other pillar wax to achieve the same effect.

Four inch+ containers are a bitch to wick. Many people end up multiple wicking those to get a complete burn without excessive heat. Arguably, the easiest containers to wick are ones whose diameter is equal to or less than their height (squat) and which have straight or slightly tapering (to the bottom) sides. Round shapes are easiest because the heat field from a wick is circular. Hex shaped jars are relatively easy, although the narrower mouth of the container and extra height sometimes create more challenges.

Good luck with your project & let us know how it's going for you as you buy your materials. I do suggest that you purchase a sampler package of wicks so that you have several of many sizes from which to choose when testing.

[chuck_35550]

You may have a couple of things going for you in this project: you don't intend to fragrance your candles with fragrance oil, you don't care about the melt pool (just light), and you don't care about soy. Those elements help to simplify your goal at least a little bit. The one thing you don't want would be a candle that soots like a chimney stack. I would read up and compare paraffin blends and understand that a lot of people still use zinc wicks when using paraffin. Zincs are the coolest burning but tend to be soot producers if they are not the right size for the container and the type of wax you are using. I would keep it simple and not worry about any aspect but safety. Closely inspect those jars for tiny cracks and flakes or chips. Thin glass doesn't hold up well for re-use....oh and above all....watch out for candle making addiction.

[pzwiz]

Thank you all very much for your very informative replies!

You folks have cleared up several things for me.

The lousy burn pattern when I originally burned these candles. These things were almost self-extinguishing i.e. they burned a hole in the middle of the wax and the wick ended up in what I can only describe as a small circle of melted wax in the middle of the candle with only the barest tip still burning.

I thought a larger wick might take care of this.

While the containers are very heavy with glass almost 1/4" thick, I am in no way married to this style of candle. I suppose a mold for a pillar candle could be made from metal tubes I have on hand if made in the right proportions?. There used to be some kind of mold release agent to release the candle after it cooled.

As for safety, that's why I'm using candles in the first place. In a rich wood environment more fires are caused by flammable liquids than I care to think about.

As far as sooting is concerned, does anyone still trim their wicks the way we used to do? It was part of daily housekeeping chores and usually fell to the youngest kid (which was me ):rolleyes2

Is there a rough guideline of wick to candle diameter? Say a 5mm wick in a 2" candle for example?

Thanks very much for all your help.!

Adolph

BTW, I should mention up front that I consider myself "digitally challenged" (how is that for politically correct?):smiley2:, meaning I know diddly about computers. So If my forum etiquette is not correct, please don't hesitate to let me know.

[Stella1952]

burned a hole in the middle of the wax and the wick ended up in what I can only describe as a small circle of melted wax in the middle of the candle with only the barest tip still burning

This is tunnelling. While some waxes burn this way naturally (palm wax), in most cases it means that the candle is underwicked. Try a larger size wick. With such a large diameter candle, you will either need a pretty large wick OR you may need to double wick.

As far as sooting is concerned, does anyone still trim their wicks

Your candle should not soot if it is wicked correctly. Wicks should always be trimmed before the candle is burned each time.

While the containers are very heavy with glass almost 1/4" thick, I am in no way married to this style of candle. I suppose a mold for a pillar candle could be made from metal tubes I have on hand if made in the right proportions?

A smaller diameter container would be easier for you to wick. Many people end up having to use more than one wick to get a complete burn on 4" candles. You would need a pillar formula wax for pillars. The formula used for containers is much softer and engineered to adhere to the sides of the container. Obviously this trait would be counterproductive for a molded candle. Pillar wax has to be harder than container wax for obvious reasons. You can use many types of "found" molds for pillars. I have used frozen juice cans, Pringles potato chip cans (with the metal ring at the top removed), salt containers, cardboard tubes, etc. Molds made of cardboard do not have as smooth of a surface finish as one would get with polished aluminum or tin, but the matte look achieved can be quite pleasing.

Is there a rough guideline of wick to candle diameter?

Yes, but it differs from wick type to wick type and there are variations, depending on your individual ingredients. Here is a table that may help you ascertain a starting point. When you purchase wicks, it's a good idea to buy sample packages so that you have several of each size in case you need to wick up or down.

WickIt - Wick Recommendation Chart

Detailed descriptions of common brands of wicks can be found at the Wicks Unlimited website.

Just remember in your desire to make a candle with a high lumen output, you will also produce a lot of heat as the lumen output goes up. Your container should never become so hot that you cannot touch it. It is normal that with a container with a mouth (like the hex in my avatar), the rim of the jar will be hotter than the sides, but the sides should remain cool enough to handle without burning your fingers. Remember that you can concentrate and reflect the light by the use of faceted glass or reflective surfaces, like mirrors, polished metal, anything white, etc. While hemp twine may make a novel rustic candle, it sounds like you are planning to use these candles on a regular basis. Please try real wicks which are engineered for candlemaking. Hemp twine is fine for macrame or tying up packages, but it is NOT the most reliable nor best choice for a candle wick.

[pzwiz]

Wow Stella, Thank you ever so much for your very informative reply.

After reading your last reply and the others before it, I have been busy gathering more info from the ideas and links given me.

A consensus is starting to emerge after contacting several of the supply companies such as wickit, Peak, IGI etc.

Armed with the info provided by everyone here, I was able to ask some intelligent questions and the answer seems to be:

3" Pillar candles with Square braid wick, with the #1/0 size looking the most promising.

ALL my candles, wether in a container or not, are always burned in a metal tray or device of some sort, a tray for middle of the room use and a tray with reflector for wall use, like a weird sconce.

( I make my own from some cheap Chrome Plated rectangular trays I got from a garage sale. Just cut a notch on each side in the middle, bend it up 90 degrees and attach a handle or drill a hole for hanging. The candle is kept from sliding by a piece of a soup can bolted to the tray.)

Not pretty but it works! I am sure all the artists among you are shaking your collective heads about the use of such crude contraptions with items that you craft with such skill.

I'm afraid I just want to read by candlelight when the winter comes.

As far as the molds are concerned, I build my own Telescopes and have lots of metal tubes of all sizes and, after having looked at how the molds are made, I should be all set.

But i am getting the message to try several wick sizes to see which works best and of course I will use Pillar candle wax as you suggested.

Armed with this info, the next winter should be a little brighter.

If I have overlooked something, please let me know.

Adolph