FunFlames Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 Hello all, I have created a 75/25 soy/parrafin blend that I really like but I am having a little difficulty in the cooling process....*if I cool in styrofoam boxes, they are perfect in that there are NO cracks, voids or dips... but the wax shrinks down making a "wax ring" at the hot fill line that must be removed or it looks tacky.*if I cool openly on table they crack and have voids and pretty much look crappy but have no fill line residue*if I cool under a cardboard box they still have cracks, just not as bad and no fill line residueI am thinking of putting a few holes in my styrofoam boxes so they can cool a bit quicker but still slower than cardboard.How does everyone else using a soy/parrafin blend cool their candles?? TIA for any and all help!!Danielle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellen Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 I can't help, but I'll be following this thread. I've been testing blends alot also. So far the candles llok perfect...I just can't wick them to save my life!!!I leave them out in the kitchen....CheersHells Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisR Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 I don't have time or space to cool my candles slowly, or any other gimmick to make a smooth top, etc. I work in my basement, which is always about 60 - 65, and I just leave the candles uncovered on the shelf to cool. I always poke relief holes after they've cooled and use my heat gun to fill any voids and smooth any tops. It takes less time to do it this way than to fuss around with slow cooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babyv Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 I use my own para/soy blend and I cool my candles in the oven. After I am done warming up my jars I turn the heat off and after I pour I place my candles in the oven to cool. It takes 4 -5 hrs or so and I don't make large batches...yet. I do get a bit of the line you are talking about but it's very minimal and my friends and family have never said anything to me about it. Candles smell and burn great. I think that's all that matters to them.HTHLaura Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunFlames Posted February 21, 2009 Author Share Posted February 21, 2009 Babyv..... I am starting to wonder if certain soys or parrafins leave the residue. I am using 415 and J223. Alot of people talk about great glass adhesion, but my blend pulls away from the glass. I will find the perfect "technique" for my house and bland. Hellen.... can I ask what wicks you have tried?? I am using a 11oz metro style jar with a diameter of 3inches and get great results with the CDN wicks!Have a great day everyone!Danielle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babyv Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 Funflames - I think you are right. My candle journey started with soy wax. I had to repour each one bc the center would drop on every candle. I added cocount oil to help but then I got crumbly tops. After much thought I started playing with para/soy and was amazed at the creamy soft tops I was getting. I guess after such crappy tops I was happy and just never thought about the small line. BUTyou know now that we have talked about it here...it's going to drive me crazy. Laura Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunFlames Posted February 21, 2009 Author Share Posted February 21, 2009 SORRY Laura Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellen Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 FunFlames: I haven't tried that size metro...does it look good?? I did use the 226g (which is the 8 oz) and I found the CDN 14 worked like a charm. I was trying 60 Soy 40 Paraffin in a 10oz apothecary container (because I adore the look of those jars) but I tried and tried and came up with NOTHING!!! To see which wicks I tried.....if you want to use that jar also, do an advanced jar and type in my name and I listed ALL of my tests. hehehheheDo you mind telling me which CDN worked best for you in the 10oz metro? I might get a couple of jars in and see how I go.Cheers,Hells Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellen Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 When I go downstairs later this morning I'll look in the cellar for the boxes with the paraffin wax and I'll tell you what it is. My candles really look great....from memory it says parrafin 63 degrees???I'll double check and report backCheers,Hells Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunFlames Posted February 21, 2009 Author Share Posted February 21, 2009 Hells, I get my jars from Fairway glass.... they call them the Richland, but they are the same as the metro. They are not on their site but if you call they have more jars available!So far I have found the CDN14 and 12 are what works for me. Here is a pic of a few I have made to test. My label goes on the top. Happy testingDanielleETS: when I was testing the apothecary jars in a similar blend (ratio) I used a cdn20. But I was not thrilled with the jar. I wanted something that would go with more decors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 If the fill line bothers you that much (but not the customer); I take a small strip of baby wipe and go over the ring a couple of times and everything is fine. I cool my candles in a large cardboard box and make sure they are far enough apart to not effect the cooling rate of each candle. I pour really hot (180 degrees) into a warmed jar and leave in the box overnight. Its not a gimmick or a hassle if produces a candle that works. You just do what personally feels right and makes your product something you are proud to offer for sale.Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntoniasCreations Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 Hello all, I have created a 75/25 soy/parrafin blend that I really like but I am having a little difficulty in the cooling process....*if I cool in styrofoam boxes, they are perfect in that there are NO cracks, voids or dips... but the wax shrinks down making a "wax ring" at the hot fill line that must be removed or it looks tacky.*if I cool openly on table they crack and have voids and pretty much look crappy but have no fill line residue*if I cool under a cardboard box they still have cracks, just not as bad and no fill line residueI am thinking of putting a few holes in my styrofoam boxes so they can cool a bit quicker but still slower than cardboard.How does everyone else using a soy/parrafin blend cool their candles?? TIA for any and all help!!DanielleOk I have tried the cardboard box, oven and leaving them out in the open and none of those are good for me (I got pretty much the same results as you did). I was wondering when guys guys talk about these styrofoam boxes are you guys meaning the coolers that you can get from Walmart? If not can you please post a picture of what it is and would you please let me know where you get it from. Thanks so much for any help you can give me. I feel like I did when I was trying to single wick my 100% soy apothecary jars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunFlames Posted February 24, 2009 Author Share Posted February 24, 2009 Antonia, I am sure the coolers would work. I personally use the boxes that meat is shipped in. Like from Omaha Steak. They are actually 1 1/2 inches thick and are really dense styrofoam, and I get them free from a client! LOLHere are a few pics. I put the lid down, set my jars on it, pour and cover. They really do work great.I hope this help you out!DanielleETS: I can fit between 6-8 depending on how I arrange them... and I have a lot of boxes! LOL If I ever get to the point of larger quanity I will design and create my own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntoniasCreations Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Thanks so much. I wish I could get them for free somewhere around here. But I showed it to my DH and he said I should be able to find it in the fishing section at Walmart, so that is where I will be headed. I hope I can find something, I am about to pull my hair out with these candles. I love this mix but these tops are killing me and I am having to heat gun the tops at least three times. Such a PITA, well I hope this works for me. By the way I get my jars from Fairway glass also and now I am totally jealousy that I didnt know they had these too. I really like the look of those jars, a lot. I think I am going to order some to test out, like I need something else to test. O well I guess it never ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 One other thing to consider is the thickness of your container glass. I use the Crisa tumbler just for that very reason. The thin glass containers tend to cool much more rapidly and the wax contracts in very uneven temperatures. Containers that are thin glass and have wavy sections or different widths are especially prone to blemishes in the finished product. Research glassware on the different boards and find out which ones are easiest to wick, have fewer problems with wet spots or other blemishes and then look at the cost and availability; before you decide to buy cases of glassware.Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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