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"sinking" tops- HELP please


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Hi everyone,

Well I am still testing wax combos and I have found that I really like 70% 464 soy and 30% paraffin but I keep getting tops that sink upon cooling. I used the search and found a few tips like cool slower and pour @ 125 etc. and I have done them all. Any tips on what to try next?? I am using a 10 oz tumbler and a 7% FO load and I did even try warming the tumblers and that did not work either. I do have a heat gun and leveled off the tops but I was hoping for an easier way.

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I am trying to deal with this same problem, but I am using 75% soy and 25% paraffin. I started out pouring at 165 and now I am down to 125. The tops look a lot better but I still have to use a heat gun. So I plan on pouring more either today or tomorrow going lower to see how it goes.

What I do right now is right before I pour my candles I take the heat gun and heat the outside if the jars (because I dont like the look of the wax melting off of the wick) until they are really hot, pour wax slowly, tap the jar with my wooden spoon to get air bubbles out, center wick and let set up. I am trying my hardest to get the right pouring temp without having to cover the candles (I just dont have the space to do this, and frankly I wont to avoid doing this).

So please if you find the right temp can you please share it with me, and I will do the same.

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This is often due to the surface of the wax cooling more quickly than the rest of the candle. First, I cool on wire cookie racks to ensure good air circulation all around the candles. Then I cover my C3 candles loosely with paper towels (balanced on the wicks) or a box (depending on how cool the room temp is) to help keep the tops from losing heat too quickly. HTH :)

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Stella,

I'm just starting to test C3. My first pour was around 145 degrees and the tops were funky. Had some holes around the wick, etc. I'm not sure if that was a sign of pouring too hot or too cold.

At what temp do you pour your C3's at?

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I use a 75%soy 25% paraffin... I pour at 150 but cool in styrofoam boxes that they use to ship meat. If I pour in the evening.... the candles still have warmth to them the next day. My tops are great... my only issue is a residual wax line from the initial pour where the wax shrunk down upon cooling. The tops are smooth and level, no cracks, no crators. The residue line is easily wiped off.

I did try cooling under a box and just on a table and those candles sucked! LOL I agree with the cooling slower plan!!

HTH

Danielle

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Some folks never have this problem, but for those who do, this thread has some excellent tips and tricks.

The box vs. cooler thing is dependent upon the ambient air temp and how drafty the area is. If it's real cold in my drafty old house, I use a styro cooler top. At "normal" temp in our candle room (nice and draft-free), I use a shallow box lid or just some paper towels.The idea is good air circulation and slow, even cooling.

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My first pour was around 145 degrees and the tops were funky. Had some holes around the wick, etc.

Sorry, Chakka - didn't see your post at first. C3 does best for us either poured significantly warmer than that (165°F) or significantly cooler (slush). Our most reliable, best tops come from pouring hotter rather than cooler. We also temper our wax prior to pouring.

For pesky air pockets near the wick, we *thump* the candles a few times during cooling to release air bubbles. (*Thumping* is picking the container up and *thumping* it down again in the same place.) When I use a cooling rack that fits tightly in the bottom of our cardboard flats, I just pick up the entire flat of candles and *thump* the whole danged thing on the table. Wanna know what happens when I *thump* a flat whose cooling rack doesn't fit tightly? :lipsrseal:lipsrseal:lipsrseal It's ugly... very ugly...:tiptoe:

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