Pouring Temp for Cargill C-3?

[Gypsyjen]

Hello everyone!

I am new to the forum & candlemaking. I have been researching a "definitive" pouring temperature for C-3. I noticed on the forum that there are many different temperatures given for this, from hot (175*) to cool/slushy (120-130*). The recommendation I got from my supplier is 140-160*. Do the temperature ranges depend on adding color, fragrance, or additives? Or is it a matter of personal preference? I've been heating to 170*, adding color and fragrance, then pouring at 140*. I do a second pour to fill in the dreaded "crater", though it's usually a very small one around the wick. I am considering eliminating color because sometimes (not always!) I will get frosting issues as well, usually around the place where the second pour meets the first pour. I am using 16oz glass apothecary jars and ECO-14 wicks (but I'll probably end up sizing down to ECO-12's).

Any thoughts would be very appreciated!

[topofmurrayhill]

From what I've seen, 140-160 seems to be the "definitive" answer though of course many people are advocates of cold pouring or have a variety of other techniques that they feel are what works. That's because this is soy, so nobody really knows how to make it work. It will do what it pleases.

But of course you can get relatively consistent results in your own application once you settle on something. When it comes to the ideal technique, a lot depends on your container, the environmental conditions, and whether you're in the habit of holding your tongue to the left or to the right while pouring. Try to find time here and there to test out variations on what you're doing (especially the tongue thing) to find out how they work for you and whether you can get any improved results.

There are also some mysterious additives you can try. Unlike the paraffin world, people put things in their soy candles that nobody knows what the hell it is except that it helps. There is a modifier to help get smoother tops as well as a brand new Ingedient X to help eliminate frost.

Sorry I don't have more definitive advice, but I think it's truly a matter of experimentation if you don't want to settle for what you're getting.

Love your avatar.

[Gypsyjen]

LOL! Thanks Top. I've read a lot of your posts and always enjoy them. I have decided to try the "hot pour" tonight and see what happens. I had a light bulb moment and have also insulated my jars by wrapping towels around and beneath them - has anyone tried doing this to reduce cratering? If that works, maybe I'll crochet some jar warmers to sell to us embattled soy chandlers!

[wookie130]

Gypsyjen, I'm actually very glad you asked this last night, as I just got my first case of this wax...I don't believe it is 100% soy, as the company claims. I think it is closer to the Ecosoya CB's, in that it has a few extra goodies thrown into it for performance, appearance, etc.

I was wondering about the pouring temp as well. I'm going to try your method...heat to 180, add dye, FO at 175, stir like crazy, and then pour around 130-140...I'll post how it works for me. I don't plan to pre-warm my jars, as that doesn't seem necessary for soy. I also wonder if doing a repour layer over the cratery layer would fix the slight cracking thing, as I don't have a heat gun at the moment. I will also be using CD 12's in my 8 oz. jj's to start with, and CD 22's for my 16 oz. mason jars, although this will probably give me a blow-torch effect. Oh well...the joy of testing.

[Fire and Ice]

Can I ask what makes you think it's not 100% soy?

I worked with C-3 since it came out and learned that you pour at right around 170 . Since I do dye blocks, color goes in when the wax does and it is all melted at the same time.

Poured in to pur pots at about 175. F/O add, stir and pour. allow to setup for at leat eigh hours, do repour and cure for seven to ten day.

I add other soy waxes to it to make my own 100% soy formular but the wax is always poured Hot.

[islandgirl]

Hey Wookie 130,

This is an email I got from Mary at Cargill:

"Thanks for the inquiry. Our wax is made from soybean oil which is under the classification of vegatable oils. The product contains a certain amount of additives to help improve functionality but does not contain botanical oils. If you would like to forward your address, I can put some information in the mail to you."

Wookie, You are right.. The C-3 is 85% Soy and 15% other vegteables.

I called Cargill and asked them. My Naturewax box says...

Vegteable blend on it!! ( It is a good soy wax IMO)

I do not know why they say it is 100%. That confused me too!! It is much creamer than the 100% pure soys I have used in the past.. HTH

[Gypsyjen]

Gypsyjen, I'm actually very glad you asked this last night, as I just got my first case of this wax...I don't believe it is 100% soy, as the company claims. I think it is closer to the Ecosoya CB's, in that it has a few extra goodies thrown into it for performance, appearance, etc.

I was wondering about the pouring temp as well. I'm going to try your method...heat to 180, add dye, FO at 175, stir like crazy, and then pour around 130-140...I'll post how it works for me. I don't plan to pre-warm my jars, as that doesn't seem necessary for soy. I also wonder if doing a repour layer over the cratery layer would fix the slight cracking thing, as I don't have a heat gun at the moment. I will also be using CD 12's in my 8 oz. jj's to start with, and CD 22's for my 16 oz. mason jars, although this will probably give me a blow-torch effect. Oh well...the joy of testing.

Hey Wookie,

I have learned that my repours set up best when the candle is barely warm. If I repour when the candle is cold, I get a frost line. If I repour when the candle has barely set up, I get a slight sinking in some areas (I think poke holes might alleviate this?). Anyway just a heads-up. Good luck!