pureblisscandles Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 HI everyone, first of all i love this site....some many threads. A new person could learn tons. I think my brain is already on overload:confused: .Ok so i have been using the GW 444 for container candles. When I first got in my wax 3 weeks ago. I basically just heated it around 185 or so added color and scent then cooled maybe 5 mins and poured. It was my first candles ever and I really had not done too much research at that point. Ok but to my surprise the candles turned out perfect. (IMO) I was using 16 oz mason with CD 16.Well since then I have been doing tons and tons of researching. I have been making candles everyday being very cautious watching temps, trying different wicks, scents, and documentig everything on test sheets.....Ok now the candles look awful...frosting, bubbles, poor glass adh , etc... THis is what I am now doing and those of you who uses GW444 please feel free to chime in what you guys do so maybe I can pinpoint my errors. I heat3 lbs wax in presto pot up to 185-190 then I pour into a pour pot where i then add color (block) stir stir stir for about 1-2 min then I add fragrance 1.5 oz per lbs so in this case 4.5 oz(I sit the pour pot on an electric pan so it stays hot enough 170 to bind the fragrance) then I take off the electric skillet and cool to 125-135 then pour in preheated jars.<y last batch i cooled to 145-150 and they looked awful after the 1st burn. They are cooling together on my kitchen bar overnight. I live in tx so its not cold here.the candles look decent at first but after I start testing them they look gross and start showing bubbles in the wax??? I have tested about 20 candles recently and the only thing I concluded was the wick. I like the CD and ecos. do you think I am pouring too cool, its seems like i did not cool that low the first time i made candles but I can't be sure cause I did not document anything. ok so please any insight would be great. I am seriously thinking about adding CO to my next batches but not sure. I also make beeswax candles but i keep reading from Golden brands they do not recommend adding BW. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pureblisscandles Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 oh yeah I forgot to say that they have very little scent throw after curing for 2 weeks. Great cold throw but no hot throw. I have been using fragrances from candles and supplies. I hope these are decent since i ordered tons of scents from them. I am going to try BCS FO next.Ok i am done with this book. Thank you in advance for any insight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vio Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 I was going to use 444 for my wax, but could only get C-3 locally so I went with C-3 to avoid shipping. 444 seems a very appealing wax. I've seen a lot of good about it. I'd try to check the site you bought it from, for their recommendations on how to prepare it. Use the search here for keywords and you'll find tons on 444 I'm sure. I'd search "444 frost" to see if there's anything that can help you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 You needn't be too concerned about how they look after the first burn. Soy candles aren't the prettiest things in the world. Looking good after being poured is usually the measure of success. After a burn, the melt pool often sets up like snot and you might see a ring of frost around the top of the jar.No scent throw is a soy thing too. A fairly large proportion of fragrance oils don't work. Candles & Supplies wouldn't be my first choice for fragrance (to say the least). A lot of suppliers will indicate which fragrances have been tested to work well in soy, so that it doesn't have to be hit or miss.There is maybe a temptation when you start out to collect too much information and do too many things to try and get the best results. For instance, are you heating the jars because you found out it works better or because you read it might be a good idea? Start with the simplest approach and add to it only when you have a good reason to.FO binding is something that everyone talks about and understandably you got influenced by that. What you might not realize is that the idea is made up and nobody knows exactly what this "binding" really means. Some people think it's happening and some people add FO at much lower temps and have no problem. So again in the spirit of keeping things simple, I suggest not using the hot plate while you add fragrance. FO starts off sinking to the bottom when you pour it in and personally I'd never apply bottom heat unless maybe the fragrance was already stirred in.If I were you I'd figure out how to get the best possible result with just plain 444 before considering adding anything to it.Hope some of that might help. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JennB Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 I add fo at a cool temp (about 120-130) and don't have a problem with binding, unless I don't stir enough.I second that - why add the hot plate (a second step) when it's not necessary?I use a CD18 on my 16 ounce sqaure mason, but that's because I use the heavier scents. I'll probably back off to a CD16 this Spring.I used C&S almost exclusively. Some of their fo are crap for soy. Some are awesome. Buy the 1oz before you commit to anything in a larger qty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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