Jump to content

4627 blend or straight?


Recommended Posts

I've always blended by 4627 with soy, and it pours a good looking candle. I've had some success this week testing the blend with LX wicks vs. HTP but I'm starting to wonder if I'll get better throw with straight 4627?

The HTP and LX wicks both work well but I think I'm getting a stronger throw with the HTP even if the burn time is a bit faster.

I wonder if the throw would be better using straight 4267?

Also, how high can I safely heat this wax? I've read both 220 degrees and 185. I've heated to 185, poured it into my pyrex cup, added dye, then FO and poured from there. Is it more benificial to pour hotter and mix the FO in the presto vs the pyrex cup?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, the only way you'll know if the throw will be better is to try it. You already have the wax, so why not try?

As for heating.. it can be heated higher than 220 briefly and still be safe, but there's not much point in it usually. The biggest worry (talking under 250F) is leaving it at a higher temp for very long after adding the FO. Leaving the wax at a high temperature will cause the scent to fade or burn off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's fine if you'd like to mix the fragrance in your Pyrex. That's probably what the majority of people would do, but some mix everything in the Presto and that works too.

The pouring temperature for the wax is normally 175-185. If you mix in the Pyrex you might want to heat the wax hotter to compensate for the temperature drop. I'd also suggest putting the Pyrex in a warm (not too hot) oven while the wax is melting.

I don't specifically know what the difference would be in scent throw, but I don't see why the soy would be necessary for anything except maybe marketing purposes. 4627 is a fully formulated wax. If you're not adding soy to achieve any specific result apart from saying there's soy in the candle, I'd certainly suggest trying it without so you can at least compare the results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the help. I really don't know why I started out by mixing soy with this preblend to begin with either. I think someone suggested it would be easier to wick. However, I'll make a few test jars without it on Friday when I'm off work. (I had planned on doing it tonight, but after a 14 hour shift, I need a nap.) I've been using 7% FO since day one but I think I might go up a bit and down a bit on the FO% and see what happens.

I wondered about the heat/pour temps because I noticed that the jars developed wet spots several days later, even though I heat the jars beforehand and cool them down overnight in the oven. They look perfect for a day or so but all hell breaks loose sometime around day two or three. I've recently noticed some frosting on the sides as well, which I guess can be attributed to the soy?

I've been trying to research as much about this wax as I can, and I plan on beating it before it beats me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...