my joy boys Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 I just started working with palm wax and made a pillar (I'm waiting on the Glass Glow for CS!). I have a ?? about the sides being too thick?I used CS's starburst palm wax and cooled it very slowly --with an Igloo cooler over it! The mold size was a 3 x 4.5 with a concave top. Used a CSN 11 wick-- no FO, 1 dye chip. It came out beautifully, if I do say so myself! 2 days later I lit it and it burned nicely. Last night I wanted to see the glow from down inside the candle-- it had burned long enough to do this, or so I thought. Now I am wondering if I need to wick up to make the melt pool go out further to be able to see the candlelight once the wick has burned down far enough.Am I making any sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowded House Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Maybe you do. I am finding palm to be a challenge to wick.Although I finally found a use for the CSN 14's. Patchouli, 3" palm pillar, 4-5 hour burns. Heavy stuff, man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my joy boys Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 But if wicked properly, should I be getting a "glow" from inside the candle when it has burned down far enough?Do dye colors used affect this too?TIA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Yes. ANY color, unless it is very, very pale, will diminish the translucency of palm wax. Even with no dye, a 3/4" wall will almost toally obscure the glow from the flame. 1/2" is about as thick as we have been able to go and still see the glow from inside well, especially when we've colored the wax.Bottom line is that when poured to crystallize, the wax is pretty opaque. Now, when poured cool (no crystals), it is much more clear... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my joy boys Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 Thank you-- that explains so much. So I just need to fool around with wick sizes to get enough of a pool to make the side walls thin enough to see the glow, but not thin enough to collapse?(sounds easy enough......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grama Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 1 made a 16 oz pillar - 3" top - from Moon Lake Musk at 1 oz pp. I used 1 drop of blue and used the csn 11 wick. Now mine was feather palm so don't know if that made a difference or not but the 12 wick was to large. After about 3-4 hr burn it had just about started a leak on the side. Mine is burning perfectly and I can see the glow as it has burned down. It needed to burn down about 1 & 1/2 " to be able to see the glow. My wall was 3/4" thick - maybe about 1/4 or so. Now mine burned all day yesterday from about 5:30 AM to 12:30 AM - a very long time and had no problem with it trying to leak. hth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurpleHippie Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 Even with purple dye I could always see the glow when the candle burned down. Maybe not as strong with certain colors but I could see it. Just like you said, not so thin that it will break and spill but maybe a bit thinner to see the flame. JMO but if I couldn't see the glow from within what would be the point of burning a pillar without any light seen from the flame? I burn tapers and pillars for the look of candle light more than for scent throw. You know, romantic lighting:). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grama Posted May 5, 2007 Share Posted May 5, 2007 I need to correct my post from 5-3 . MY WALL WAS NOT 3/4 THICK - left out a very important word. It was probably about 1/4 or so. Hope this did not confuse anyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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