NYcandles Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 I have a couple of problems here. First I attempted to make rustic multi colored pillars. I poured the first color and leaned the mold on its side,I waited until it set up and poured another color. I poured using 1343 and the instructions I was using said to pour at about 135 degrees. Well, a couple of things happened when I took them out of their molds. First the bottom layer came off completely so I am guessing I poured the second layer too cold? Then, the "rustic" blemishes are almost like big bubbles, where if you push on them or rub them lightly,they flake off. Also,some of the rustic marks are running length wise, they look more like seam marks or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judyvega Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 It would be helpful if you could post a pic so we could see the marks you're talking about to better be able to answer your questions.As far as pouring temp goes, I make rustics ALL the time, and 135 is just too low a pouring temp, imo. I use 1343 as well, I always pour each layer between 150-155 in aluminum mods. Are you using stearic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYcandles Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 I didn't think off taking pics before I remelted the candles. I am not using steric because I wanted to keep any mottled effect I may get from the 1343, won't the steric take that away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judyvega Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Nope - you will still get mottle v/stearic - you will NOT get rustic w/o stearic so use it at about 3 tbs pp to help reduce seepage - Vybar is what will inhibit the mottle (unless you use vybar 343) - hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Layers fell apart because the pour temp was too cool. Try bumping that up to 145 or 150 and then poke your relief holes through all layers and recap when it's time for the repour. That will help with binding the layers together too.Sounds like big air bubbles. You can poke these from the side of your mold. You should be able to see shiny bubbles attached to the sides. I usually poke those with my skewer to loosen them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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