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C-3 vs Ecosoya


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Hi,

New to group and read over the posts but couldnt find one that talked about C-3 and problems with melt pool. I am now using C3 with 16 oz mason jars and EO only (good grade) I have tried HTP wicks all sizes one wick, and I cant get a good melt pool. The wax seems to pool only in the center. I went to HTP 126 and it caused black soot in the candle. SO I decided to double wick and the wick melts too fast and puts the flame out. I like the C3 but the melt pool I think is too small. If I go to Eco CB 135 will I get a better melt pool and thus a better scent throw? Has anyone tried the ecosoya 100% soy over the 135? I dont hear much about that particular wax. Ecosoya wont tell me what the "botanical oils" are that they use (trade secret they say whatever) in the 135 which bothers me because I tell my customers that the candles are 100% soy and I cant even tell them what the oils eco uses because its a secret. Anyway suggestions are most appreciated!

Thanks

Barb

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That is like comparing Lexus with a Yugo. You need to double wick the c-3 in any large container in most cases, The ECO- Throws about 6" away from the jar. LOL, Ok, that was the ADVANCED ECOSOYA, could not tell you about the regular eco. If you want to one wick everything, Use Para...

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C-3 was so hard for me to wick and I am still having a hard time getting it to be a single wick. Love the wax but frustrating at times lol had to take a break from it and go with the comfort blend, but will be going back to it within the month lol

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Thanks for the info. I just got some LX26 today so I made some candles. I have to ask since I did this on a whim and really wondering just how its going to go but I put in a small amount of Stearic Acid thinking that if the wax was a bit more firm I would get a better burn. SO how will the wax burn?

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CDN wicks work very well for us in C-3. We buy ours from Just By Nature.

All of the 100% soy waxes we have researched have "secret" ingredients like stabilizers, emulsifiers and other stuff in them to enhance the product and NONE of the manufacturers are going to tell you exactly what is in them... your best bet is to request a MSDS for the product and make that information available to your customers. Same goes for the fragrance oil and any other additive, like dye, stearic and UV stabilizers...

That is like comparing Lexus with a Yugo. You need to double wick the c-3 in any large container in most cases

Not sure which one you think is which...:confused:

The shape of the 16 oz. container will dictate whether it needs to be double wicked. A tall, narrow container would require less wick than a short, wide container as the glass walls hold in the heat. A larger surface area would keep the temperature down and therefore require more wicking.

The EOs you are using will have a strong effect on how the candle burns. Each EO will not behave the same when burned as the next one... that's the nature of things.

I think I would use a smaller size container for testing until I got everything worked out and standardized. The squat, widemouth 8 oz. masons are good as are 5 oz. tins for testing purposes.

Good luck! :grin2:

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Thanks Stella for the info. I did a test burn with the new wick that bought spooled and I dipped in wax along with the stearic I added to the C3 and the candle burned great. I was so happy. Now all I have to do is duplicate it with the rest of my oils.

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