willow candle Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 Can anyone help me ? I am using C3 wax. adding 1 tsp of vybar 260, 1 oz Fo, liquid dye to 1 lb of wax. I have poured at many different temps to test. I have poured at 160,165,180,190.. and slushy. I am pouring directly into the votive conatiner. plain straight 2.5 oz jar also into 10 oz ap jars.. I am getting pits usually around my wicks and sometimes further out.I have tested HTP, RDD, HEMP, Performa, ECO wicks....I am cooling them in my kitchen on the counter. We keep our house around 70'... also I have cooled them close together and further apart,,,,, I can not figure out why I am not getting a straight top with out pits or caves or dips somewhere on the top of the candles....Is there anything more I should be adding to the wax to help this problem or something else I should change? Please help. I am just starting this testing process SO I am VERY NEW:grin2: Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 When you say "pits" I think you mean sink holes. Sounds like it's not a one pour wax. The wax shrinks and contracts towards the wick, leaving a valley. You need to pour another layer to fill it in. This is simply the nature of the wax.e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willow candle Posted February 3, 2007 Author Share Posted February 3, 2007 When I do a repour-- what temp do I heat the wax up to before I repour? How long should I wait to do a repour? Is it just the wax I am using ? Or is this most Soy waxes? Thanks for your helpPS Yes I mean sink holes. The wax says it's a one pour wax hmmmm what a stink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 It's supposed to be a one pour with recommended pouring temps of 120-165, per Cargill, I just looked it up. Sounds like you are pouring way too hot for this wax. Try the lower temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willow candle Posted February 3, 2007 Author Share Posted February 3, 2007 I will try that .. What's one more test batch heheheh.. Thanks for your help.. For some reason I was thinking 140-160 pouring temps hmmm... I must have misread....Thanks for the hope Yes, I just checked Lonestar's web page out -- where I bought the wax from and their pouring temps say 140-160... hmm.. I will try the lower temp for pour...THANKS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 Well the oddest thing you're doing is adding Vybar to it. Why don't you leave that out and see what the difference is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Accents Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 You don't need to add anything to this wax at all except UV inhibitor if you're coloring your candles. I get those sink holes pretty regularly, sometimes I think I've got them figured out then they start up again. You pretty much need to hit them with a heat gun and remelt the tops. It is a single pour, no need to do a repour. You can also poke holes in the top while it's setting up and then melt them closed when it's set up. Play with your pour temps a little more, but pouring them much cooler make the sides look funny.Let us know how it goes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willow candle Posted February 4, 2007 Author Share Posted February 4, 2007 Well the oddest thing you're doing is adding Vybar to it. Why don't you leave that out and see what the difference is.The first batch I did I left the vybar out and it seemed to have tons of bubbles in it even while the candle was burning.. But it was my first pour ever. So thank you I will try the next batch with out again and all the other info that has been given to me and well see where I end up prayerfully better than I am now:yay: thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willow candle Posted February 4, 2007 Author Share Posted February 4, 2007 You don't need to add anything to this wax at all except UV inhibitor if you're coloring your candles. I get those sink holes pretty regularly, sometimes I think I've got them figured out then they start up again. You pretty much need to hit them with a heat gun and remelt the tops. It is a single pour, no need to do a repour. You can also poke holes in the top while it's setting up and then melt them closed when it's set up. Play with your pour temps a little more, but pouring them much cooler make the sides look funny.Let us know how it goes!Amy,Thank you for your help.. How soon after you pour and they "seem" hard do you remelt the tops again .. Of course if you see sink holes that is? Should I let the candle sit for 24 hrs after pouring then if there is a sink hole remelt the tops with heat gun? I found on a web page to help with sink holes to let them cool on a wire rack so air can get from the bottom up and they also said to put a box over the tops of the candles to help the slow down of cooling from top to bottom.. hmmmm thought that was interesting.. Always something new to try Do you use this wax ? If so what wicks do you use? Thanks againWillow Candle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowgirl Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 I am new to this too but I so remember asking that very same question. I didnt use vybar tho. For what its worth coming from a noobie this may sound strange but since I live in an old drafty farmhouse I read on here where room temp makes a difference. So what I did was this...i purchased a space heater, room themometer put it in the big bathroom (yes my bathroom), put a kitchen table in there and heat that baby up to 74* to 78* melt my wax in the candle room and then take my pour pot to the bathroom & pour at 165* using C3, no more wet spots either. I still use a HG some but not like I was. The box thingy didn't work for me. My problem was air pockets under the surface that you couldn't see around the wick but they were there. The tops looked fine until you started burning one. It is unreal what room temp does. I couldn't believe the difference. If I hadn't found this board I probably would have given up by now. Good Luck & welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Accents Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 You can heat gun as soon as you want, it's a little easier while they're stll warm but set up, or you can do it a couple days later. It helps to poke holes before or during to fill in other holes you can't see. Trying to cool them slower seems to help with the sinking sometimes.I do use C3 and use 3 different wicks: LX, HTP, and RRD. Whichever gives me the best burn for the jar, pretty much.I seem to notice they cool on the bottom first then the top, but there are so many variables and things to try, it's definitely worth trying.Just curious...did the vybar help with the bubbles? I have the bubbles too but it still seems to burn fine.If C3 continues to frustrate you, you could try another wax and see if you like it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willow candle Posted February 4, 2007 Author Share Posted February 4, 2007 Cowgirl,I give you credit I am sure it is quite toasty in that bathroom. I did heat the jars up prior to pouring and ran a little heater and it sure seemed to help with wet spots. I will do it longer and check for sink holes.ThanksWillow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willow candle Posted February 4, 2007 Author Share Posted February 4, 2007 You can heat gun as soon as you want, it's a little easier while they're stll warm but set up, or you can do it a couple days later. It helps to poke holes before or during to fill in other holes you can't see. Trying to cool them slower seems to help with the sinking sometimes.I do use C3 and use 3 different wicks: LX, HTP, and RRD. Whichever gives me the best burn for the jar, pretty much.I seem to notice they cool on the bottom first then the top, but there are so many variables and things to try, it's definitely worth trying.Just curious...did the vybar help with the bubbles? I have the bubbles too but it still seems to burn fine.If C3 continues to frustrate you, you could try another wax and see if you like it better.Amy,The bubbles are gone for sure.... So I really think the vybar was the trick...I am not 100% sure though... I should try another batch with out.. but I am nervous .. I really like the scent and no bubbles while burning.. My only problem is sink holes.... I do believe I need to let them cooler at a warmer temp in my kitchen... a little heater thingy helped with wet spots but I did not leave it on them the whole time.... trial and error:grin2: .. I want to stick with this wax because I just found a supplier a couple miles up the road.. DARN BUT YIPEEEE.. I have ez soy and ecosoy advanced stuff I bought before I found the supplier up the road.. Now, I am afraid to try those incase I really like them hehheheheheh HOW FUNNY IS THAT...Thanks a lotWillow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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