White lines after candle cools..

[erinmfritz]

Does anyone have advice on how to get rid of the white line that appears after a burnt candle cools. It is where the MP was or below, and it's mainly in the darker colored candles. I use GB444 with ST, liquid dyes from BCN & MC, usually 8% fo. I have just started testing with dye blocks but haven't colored a candle very dark with this yet to get the line. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[tamsoycandles]

Does anyone have advice on how to get rid of the white line that appears after a burnt candle cools. It is where the MP was or below, and it's mainly in the darker colored candles. I use GB444 with ST, liquid dyes from BCN & MC, usually 8% fo. I have just started testing with dye blocks but haven't colored a candle very dark with this yet to get the line. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I get this too. Seems a feature of soy.

[geekrunner]

That is actually a frost line, it is due to the uneven cooling of the melt pool after extinguishing the flame. I get that alot even if the rest of the candle doesn't frost. I have found that the hotter the MP, then you get less or no frost line. On my candles that I wick with zinc cores, I usually get the frost lines. But on the ones I wick with LXs, I don't get the frost line. However, I do have better luck with the zincs overall with MP depth and keeping the jars from getting too hot.

HTH! geek

[erinmfritz]

So is there any way to cut down on the frost lines? Is it caused by the dye load or is it just another annoying characteristic of soy? Is it possible to cut this down or eliminate it?

[geekrunner]

So is there any way to cut down on the frost lines? Is it caused by the dye load or is it just another annoying characteristic of soy? Is it possible to cut this down or eliminate it?

It's probably more annoying to us, but it can be explained as a characteristic of soy that does not affect the throw or burn. I tend to bias my wicking toward marathon burning, so I wind up using zinc core wicks, which burn cooler so the MP doesn't get too deep when it burns for 12+ hours. But the MP doesn't get real hot, so when it cools it leaves the frost line. When I use LX wicks, the MP gets much hotter but it is much deeper than I want, and the jar gets too hot to touch. However, no frost lines when it cools.

It's just one of those things one has to fiddle with to get just right.

geek

[erinmfritz]

I have been having great luck with the ECO wicks. Great MP when I found the right size for my jar. Every Scent I have tested has been the same wick size so far. But I am still getting the Frost line on the dark colored candles. I checked the test candles that I have used the dye blocks instead of the liquid and am not noticing the line as much, although they are not as dark colored. I am going to make a teat candle with red dye chip and make it dark to see what it does. Wish me luck.

[tlc]

I checked the test candles that I have used the dye blocks instead of the liquid and am not noticing the line as much, although they are not as dark colored. I am going to make a teat candle with red dye chip and make it dark to see what it does. Wish me luck.

Please post back with the results from your dye chip test, I would be interested to know what you ended up with. Good luck!

[Henryk]

I've used the additive at http://www.aromahaven.com/wax.html and it does work up to a point. Don't use more than a couple % though as more seems to make the wax pull away from glass more. It does really minimize that post-burn ring you see, however, if you do dark soy candles, it didn't stop that ring in mine - you'll still see it - and you'll see it even when using the dye chips or flakes instead of liquids - it doesn't matter. This additive however, also does smooth out your tops more after the wax sets up if that is important to you.