shine Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 When I first started pouring GB 444 I poured at the recommended pour temps of 130 -145F. At those temps I got tons of wet spots and cracking so I started pouring at the slushy stage 110-118F. At those temps I had smooth tops, no cracks and little to no wet spots but pouring slushy was very time consuming.After reading posts from Geek and Jason I decided to try again pouring at the recommended temp of 130F, increasing my house temp to 73-75F and placing my candles underneath the under cabinet lights (80F) to cool. With those variables I had no wet spots, no cracking but with most of the FO's I used the tops were very rough.I have two questions:#1) Is pouring at the recommended temps important for appearance, performance or both? #2) Is really a request for advice recommendations,suggestions for getting a great looking candle using GB444.(BTW I am not adding color yet). Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverm00n Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 I pour at 130, and yes the PT affects the look of the candle. My tops come out a little rough too but its better than getting a whole crap load of frosting. The heat gun fixes the top right up. ~HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geekrunner Posted January 11, 2007 Share Posted January 11, 2007 I agree wholeheartedly on pour temp and room temp. The tops are easier to fix than wet spots or frosting. My basement is generally 10 deg cooler than my upstairs, so I pour my candles, and after they set up a little, move them into boxes and take them to my computer room, which is much warmer due to normal furnace running, and the computer pumping more hot air into the room. They set up nice, no frosting, and adhering completely! I just poke and heat gun, and I'm done!geek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shine Posted January 11, 2007 Author Share Posted January 11, 2007 I just bought my first heat gun yesturday. Tried it on a few candles wasn't that impressed with the results:cry2: . I've heard how everyone loves them. What am I doing wrong? I had a few tiny air bubbles after zapping. Tried zapping farther away, still tiny air bubbles escaping. What do you mean by poke and zap? Am I missing something? Thanks for all your help,Shine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geekrunner Posted January 11, 2007 Share Posted January 11, 2007 I just bought my first heat gun yesturday. Tried it on a few candles wasn't that impressed with the results:cry2: . I've heard how everyone loves them. What am I doing wrong? I had a few tiny air bubbles after zapping. Tried zapping farther away, still tiny air bubbles escaping. What do you mean by poke and zap? Am I missing something? Thanks for all your help,ShineYou'll have air bubbles coming up when the melted wax fills in the air pockets and displaces the air. The wax also may be generally porous in the area surrounding the wick, so there may be several little air bubbles after you heat gun the tops. What I do is wait till the tops set up a little after you heat gun them, then give them just enough extra heat gun to blister the bubbles and smooth them out. Repeat if necessary.geek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shine Posted January 11, 2007 Author Share Posted January 11, 2007 Thanks geek:) I'll give your method a try.Shine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.