theoldehearth Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 Hi, I'm trying the Enchanted Lites Votive wax so I'm using HTP 73 which is what I normally use with my Ecosoya votive blend. I made one of each and am testing them side by side. After two hours I find the EL has not completely melted across yet while Eco has for awhile but they're both mushrooming which has never happened with ECO. I am trying a new fragrance which is Red Hot Cinnamon so that could be the issue. My question is what do you guys normally use for votive wicking on the EL votive blend? I went to the Candlesolutions message board,signed up and posted the same question but it looks pretty quiet over there.Thanks for any help!!:embarasse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris77 Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 I don't have my notes with me, but I would think the 73 would be too big from my testing....candlesoylutions is a quiet board right now...I'm a member there as well....if you search through the 20 pages that are available, you'll find a lot of valuable information there on wicking for votives and other jars...just takes a little time to search throughGood luck!try sending a message to MrsPacNW over there....she'll email you back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logcabinmomma Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 My cinnamon red hots I'm testing at the moment is running about 2 wick sizes higher than normal (4 oz tin with GB464, normally CD 5, but this is between a 6 and 8 (testing that now, but I'm thinking since it's tin the hangup will catch up at the bottom with a 6).-Kristi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldehearth Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 My cinnamon red hots I'm testing at the moment is running about 2 wick sizes higher than normal (4 oz tin with GB464, normally CD 5, but this is between a 6 and 8 (testing that now, but I'm thinking since it's tin the hangup will catch up at the bottom with a 6).-KristiI was kinda hoping it's the fragrance oil as this is the first time I'm using this scent. I'm testing another votive with HTP 83, so far after 1 hour of burning it's lopsided so I'm hoping within the next hour it will have a complete MP.I'm going to make another batch using one of my usual fragrance oils and try again with HTP 73 and see if that makes a difference.I'm also testing the EL container wax but I find the finished look has a lot of pitting and bumps on the top as oppose to ECO CB which has a more smooth top.The only reason I'm considering switching is because EL I can get local whereas ECOSOYA is a week shipping away which of course is more expensive. AH the pros and cons!!:undecided Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris77 Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 I'm testing both the EL container and the EL millenium container and do not have a problem with "pitting" if I pour at the right temp....if it's not the top I want, I heat gun a little and get very happy tops!I was kinda hoping it's the fragrance oil as this is the first time I'm using this scent. I'm testing another votive with HTP 83, so far after 1 hour of burning it's lopsided so I'm hoping within the next hour it will have a complete MP.I'm going to make another batch using one of my usual fragrance oils and try again with HTP 73 and see if that makes a difference.I'm also testing the EL container wax but I find the finished look has a lot of pitting and bumps on the top as oppose to ECO CB which has a more smooth top.The only reason I'm considering switching is because EL I can get local whereas ECOSOYA is a week shipping away which of course is more expensive. AH the pros and cons!!:undecided Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theoldehearth Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 I'm testing both the EL container and the EL millenium container and do not have a problem with "pitting" if I pour at the right temp....if it's not the top I want, I heat gun a little and get very happy tops!So you don't get the 'cauliflower' results after burning EL container and letting it cool? I'm doing a 3 wicked heart shaped glassware and the first burn it took about 3-4 hours to get a complete MP and it burned beautifully but once it cooled I was shocked at the appearance. It looks like the middle has been poked around with an icepick, rather very unattractive. The second burn took a turn for the worse as the wicks were trying to keep up with the uneven top. Do I add something or what do I do? I'm trying really hard to work with these waxes so I can switch but I'm I really don't know about that.:undecided Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris77 Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 I got a cauliflower growth once when I added 10% paraffin, poured, and heat gunned the top a minute after I poured it...my fault! I'm testing unscented and uncolored and it burns great....I get a shiny, although not perfect, top after it sets up. I get 1/4" frosting at the burn line and any hangup frosts with the EL container...the millenium did not frost after 2 3 hour burns. Still have more testing to do, switching container and wick for the next test. I like it the best of the few soys I've tested. PM me if you have any other questions...otherwise keep posting over on the candlesoylutions ezboard since it's strictly EL, and maybe contact Bruce at EL directly...He's a great guy....he also is a member of that ezboard.Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebecca Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 it's been awhile since I used this wax since I've started messing with palm wax...lolBut when I use soy this is the wax that I use and I've always had good luck with the RRD wicks from candlescience.com.I think the last batch of votives I did, I was using RRD 29. The LX series worked well also. When I tried the HTPs I didn't really like the way they burned (seemed to have lots of heat) and it did seem like I had to use huge wicks too.Had the lumpy tops too (not bad enough to effect the wick) when I did containers with this wax but not with the votives. Could try some beeswax. I started using it to help with frosting and the lumps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lisajo Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 I use EL votive and container wax. I use HTP41 for votives. I put them in a votive holder and they completely burn down like a mini-pillar. Cinnamon is usually one of those fragrances you have to wickup on...edited to add... I love cotton wicks for EL 100% soy container wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris77 Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 I use EL votive and container wax. I use HTP41 for votives. I put them in a votive holder and they completely burn down like a mini-pillar. Cinnamon is usually one of those fragrances you have to wickup on...edited to add... I love cotton wicks for EL 100% soy container wax.I wish! I tested with HTP 62 and still couldn't get a full melt pool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logcabinmomma Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 My cinnamon red hots I'm testing at the moment is running about 2 wick sizes higher than normal (4 oz tin with GB464, normally CD 5, but this is between a 6 and 8 (testing that now, but I'm thinking since it's tin the hangup will catch up at the bottom with a 6).-Kristinevermind, hangup was slow to catch up, but did by the bottom! (granted, this is 464, not EL).-Kristi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SherriLynn Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 I love the cotton wicks too, in my containers. 51's and 60's have always worked well for me in my mason jars. For votives I use an HTP 62.. or an Eco 2... however, I do blend 1 oz of beeswax per pound of EL container blend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gicandles Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 We use EL wax in all of our candles. We mainly use the container and votive wax. From time to time or for special applications we will use the EL Millenium Blend.A couple of things that everyone should note about the EL container wax is that it is one of the few 100% soy waxes out there. There is nothing else blended in. Therefore it does not naturally have nice smooth tops like most blends. To obtain the smooth tops you need to pour at the coolest temperature possible, and two pour your candles. The thinner the second layer is the smoother the top will be. The advantage is that you candle is 100% soy (assuming no fragrance or dye) and many clients are out there looking for this.As for votive wicks... I usually use a 24-28 Twisted Papercore available from Wickit.net. I get all of my wicks from them and have never had a problem. I am not sure what their pricing is like in smaller quantities as I usually get 20-30K at a time. I have found that any cotton or papercore wicks work excellent in EL wax... also note that you can get wicks coated in a Highmelt Natural Wick Wax from wickit now which works wonderfull on hard to burn items.If any frosting occurs just go at it with a heat gun or blowdryer. Same with a bumpy surface. Just be carefull of your wick. If it has a wick wax you should cover it with a drinking straw to prevent melting the wick!The biggest thing to remember about EL Soy Wax is that the regular container blend does not contain any of the additives that most soy waxes these day do. So it does take a little more work, but ultimately it is more soy than many. Also if you like to do layered candles then EL Millenium is excellent as it is a little harder and the layers do not blend together. Also hardens faster so you don't have to wait as long to pour a second colour/fragrance.I hope this has been of some assistance.Stefan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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