The_Dallas_Texas_Dean Posted January 4, 2007 Posted January 4, 2007 Any ideas or thoughts about what can be done with this wax?When I started carving I was using IGI 1239 with a little microwax added. All was good. When it came time to reorder the only wax available to me locally was the recommended 1343. I was told that many carvers use it. Long story short, it is not working as well for me as the 1239 and I am tired of messing with it. I have 10 cases of 1239 on the way. Any idea what I could do with the colored (with pigments) wax in these 8 wells? I have approx 15 lbs of wax in each well (I also have 3 unopened cases) I hate the thought of not using it for SOMETHING.I know that many of you use the 1343 for pillars. Could I use the already colored wax to create pillars? Maybe add some Steraic and Fragrance Oil? I have heard that you can only use 3% FO with 1343. Will wax that has been colored with pigment dyes work as regular pillars?I would appreciate any help you can give me. I HATE to waste, but I am anxious to get back to the 1239 and my candle carving and need my wells empty asap.TIA to any 1343 users out there who can offer me some guidance. Quote
Shannon WY Posted January 4, 2007 Posted January 4, 2007 You most definitely can make pillars with the pigment dyes. I made a few heart pillars last year using the shocking pink pigment dye chips from BCN. I also add up to 5-6% FO in 1343 with the addition of 3 tbsp/lb of stearic. Quote
Candle Man Posted January 4, 2007 Posted January 4, 2007 I can't think of anything to do with the pigment colored wax, from my experience, pigment color will clog the wick and will not burn.Now the 1343 you have on hand you can add Vybar 103 to increase the amount of FO you can add to it. 1343 is great for wax melts, votives & pillars also for dipped critters and dipped silk flowers. Quote
Shannon WY Posted January 4, 2007 Posted January 4, 2007 I apologize- the pigment chip dyes must be different than the regular pigment dyes which are meant to be used in wax for overdipping. :embarasse Quote
Scented Posted January 4, 2007 Posted January 4, 2007 Make pillars and overdip them in your pigments. Do Bruce's experiment lol ... make some tapers. I know you dip and carve too lol!1343 holds more FO with additives dear Quote
BruceCarvesWax Posted January 4, 2007 Posted January 4, 2007 Yes do some tapers or best of all make scented melts with the wax. Are the layers not staying together? Not enough working time? I have my clear well filled with that wax and didnt like it for carving either, thats why i have lots of tapers posted now! lol I had some igi wax that was for carving that sucked also but i cant remember the numbers. I think the best is from candle wic 4045 but i forget the letters behind it (2 kinds to pick from and one is good for carving) Quote
Candle Man Posted January 4, 2007 Posted January 4, 2007 Bruce,What do you not like about IGI 1343 for carving? Quote
BruceCarvesWax Posted January 4, 2007 Posted January 4, 2007 Bruce,What do you not like about IGI 1343 for carving?The layers didnt want to stick together as well as they should and the time to carve was not but a few minutes. Could have been because my dip water is much colder then it should be but the other layers (different wax) was doing fine and workable. I had a wedding candle to do last week and always use clear and white in them. I had to trash 3 candles from the layers seperating. Its been many years since I have even had to trash one candle so i knew something was way wrong. I did one with just white layers and it carved great so it had to be the clear... first 2 were with the igi wax 12XX something and then I cleaned out the clear and loaded it with 1343 for the 3rd try that screwed up as well. Bruce Quote
The_Dallas_Texas_Dean Posted January 4, 2007 Author Posted January 4, 2007 Yea, everything he said for me too!!! Separating, cracking, shorter working time etc. Can you imagine having ALL the wells 1343? Since I started using this wax I have spent more time trying to repair all the mishaps that happen during the carving process than I have actually just enjoying the carving. (which I was doing with the 1239) I REALLY wanted to buy wax locally, but I am giving up and going back to the 1239 where carving was FUN!Making melts with ALL this wax? I have 8 wells (15 lbs in each well)...that would be 120 lbs of melts:undecided ...and this wax can hold 3% fragrance oil:undecided ??I guess I could use some form of additive (Vybar 103) and pour some 16oz tins for the warmer? How much Vybar would you recommend I add per lb, and how much FO can I load it up with?I am not a pillar guy, but I did give it a shot over the holidays.(since I have all this wax) 1343 plus 1 teaspoon Steraic and 7% FO....plus 12 drops liquid dye. Came out of the mold beautifully, excellent throw, not too oily......actually they LOOKED fairy decent. Not having any wicks suitable for pillars, fortunately my house is still standing. Quote
BruceCarvesWax Posted January 4, 2007 Posted January 4, 2007 I just use a pinch of vybar per pound of wax and that does it for me. You can get alot of scent in them if you want, like 10% if you want. Wickless tins sound like a good idea also. Bruce Quote
Scented Posted January 5, 2007 Posted January 5, 2007 And if you go with steric alone, put more in there boy. Let the Lion roar with that lol! 2 T to 1 tsp is more fun Quote
joym Posted January 5, 2007 Posted January 5, 2007 Some other ideas - add vybar & scent (I use about 1 tsp/#of vybar & 6-7% fo) fire startersdipped pine coneswater candleschubs (short, fat double-string tapers, meant for display, not burning) Quote
The_Dallas_Texas_Dean Posted January 5, 2007 Author Posted January 5, 2007 Thanks for the ideas! I decided to pop a wick in that pillar I made with it...I know it was not the right wick ....just all I had. I will be shocked if I get 4 more hours out of it. This was after the first 4. Of course I took this wax out of the clear well and added the Steraic....so it had no pigment in it. Too bad I can't just mold the wax in the wells and call it a day. Quote
The_Dallas_Texas_Dean Posted January 5, 2007 Author Posted January 5, 2007 I just use a pinch of vybar per pound of wax and that does it for me. You can get alot of scent in them if you want, like 10% if you want. Wickless tins sound like a good idea also. BruceOh Wow! Do I have a lot to learn about wax and additives!So I can take the wax out of the wells, add a pinch of Vybar per Lb plus the FO, pour it in the tins and I am good to go?! (No need to add the steraic for this, right?) Quote
candlesprite7 Posted January 5, 2007 Posted January 5, 2007 I would go wickless too, good way to get rid of it all.... Quote
BruceCarvesWax Posted January 5, 2007 Posted January 5, 2007 Oh Wow! Do I have a lot to learn about wax and additives!So I can take the wax out of the wells, add a pinch of Vybar per Lb plus the FO, pour it in the tins and I am good to go?! (No need to add the steraic for this, right?)Right! Quote
The_Dallas_Texas_Dean Posted January 5, 2007 Author Posted January 5, 2007 What about Core candles, Bruce? I have three more cases of this wax in the garage. Think it would be alright for Core candles if the wells were filled with the 1239? Quote
BruceCarvesWax Posted January 5, 2007 Posted January 5, 2007 Well, I dont think that would be the best way to get rid of it. We use to have tons of scrap wax that we needed to get rid of. We would pour the mold and leave a inch or 2 of the mold empty. We poured the scrap wax to fill the last inch or 2. Maybe that would work? We always poured a clear core and it had a brown scrap wax bottom that was low enough in the candle that it never showed up since you dont carve deep that low. Or test a mixture of the 2 waxes 50/50 for your cores. Dont make up a crap load just one or two and see how that works. Having the core seperate is something you dont want for sure. You going to lose alot of pigment there also hey? Quote
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