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Question about Rustics


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Hi,

I have been making Rustics for some time now- I think they are my favorite pillars because they are so forgiving (blemishes and imperfections are ok!) My question is this: My first layer always looks good - lots of frosting, etc. But when I let the first layer cool down and pour a second layer at 10 degrees hotter, I lose the "rustic" look on this second layer and subsequent layers. Can someone give me advice on how to make the second and third layers also look rustic?

I use IGI 1343 with steric and usually do my first pour at around 148-150 degrees into chilled or cool molds. Then I wait until the first layer has set a bit before pouring 10 degrees hotter for second layer. I dont put into water bath until I have finished all my layers. Any suggestions will be most appreciated!

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I'd say it's because your pourong 10 degrees hotter, You need to pour at a lower temp to get a rustic effect. I know some people say to pour each layer hotter than the last so the layers will adhere to each other, But I've always poured each one at 150 with no problems. It probaly isn't nessecary to do a water bath either.HTH!

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It's definitely because you're pouring hotter. I pour all my layers around 150 also, but timing is critical. You want to pour the next layer when the previous layer has a thick skin. Warm to the touch still, but thick enough that the new wax won't bust it open.

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I suggest that you not chill the molds and that you let them cool at room temp without the waterbath. Also pour the same temp throughout. 10 degrees hotter isn't necessary. The wax doesn't care about 10 degrees hotter and it doesn't know or remember what degree the first pour was at..:smiley2:

As has been said, it's the timing that's important to get each layer to meld with the previous one. Pour the next layer while the previous one is still pliable. Also when poking relief holes (I poke mine after the last layer) it's a good idea to mark your skewer or knife or whatever you use. I use an old (long) steak knife and I put a piece of masking tape on it as a depth marker. I have it marked to where the knife goes almost all the way to the bottom yet stops short of touching the mold by just under 1/2 inch.

That way, when I pour to fill the relief holes, I'm pouring through all my layers and that helps to ensure a bind of all my layers, all the way through my candle. I had the top layer pop off one of my candles once, so I started making my relief holes deeper and measured to help prevent that from happening in the future..Hope this makes sense...:smiley2:

P.S. My problem is I'm losing frosting to the molds, when trying to get the stubborn ones out..:grin2:

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If your really stuck and the layers just don't stick, you can try a heat gun on them to meld the two together (if they're not too bad) or dipping them in v hot water also helps, but you have to be careful no wax melts around a water droplet! The 10 degrees hotter will be why the other layers don't work

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thank you all for your great suggestions. I will definitely not pour the second layer hotter next time. I guess I always have poured my subsequent layers a little hotter than the first one, seems like I read it somewhere but it makes sense that wax doesn't remember what temp it was initially poured at! :cheesy2:

As for the water bath, it is in the basic Rustic/Cold Pour instructions (Techniques and Ideas link) here on the candletech forum that said a water bath will aid in clean release. I would love to not mess with the water bath. I will try that next time. But I have to admit, I do get a clean mold release so maybe it is because of the water bath.

thanks again everyone!

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It's definitely because you're pouring hotter. I pour all my layers around 150 also, but timing is critical. You want to pour the next layer when the previous layer has a thick skin. Warm to the touch still, but thick enough that the new wax won't bust it open.

Oh I have chills!!!! Sorry it's just nice to see someone with my same advice!

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