A Couple of M&P questions

[mappam]

I use to make CP and because of - well lots of reasons I went "back" to M&P.

I have been using the SFIC base - but it is so soft that the bars do Not last very long. I just read about Wisterial Lane = Hard Bars - anyone tried this base? How does this base compare to SFIC for lather and over all feel?

Also - what colorants do you use? I am finding that what I am using tends to "bleed" into the other colors if I layer or swirl.

The SFIC base - I do let the bars 'cure' and have been using the Low Sweat base (I am in Florida so this is almost a given!)

Thank you in advance for any and all information and tips/hints you can provide.

[soapermom]

I don't use either of those bases.

I use liquid gel pigments from go planet earth, they are the best non bleeding ones I have found.

[jazzbo848]

are you adding anything to your sfic base?

cheryl

[mappam]

Thanks for the replies - No - nothing added except color and FO. No extra oils etc.

[Noodle]

I don't know anything about the low sweat base. But I use the white base all of the time from SFIC and that bars last forever. It is a shame that they don't last for you.

[mbrown]

I too use the SFIC base and I have not had problems with it but I also add a little castor oil to help increase the lather. I LOVE LATHER.

I make both CP and MP. IMO I have found the the CP does last a little longer but not much.

[jazzbo848]

how much fo are you adding?

cheryl

[sockmonkey]

The SFIC base you're using could make a difference. I use their goat's milk, cocoa butter, shea, and oatmeal bases, and I can tell you that the cocoa butter and oatmeal bases make much more firm bars than the goat's milk. I don't consider what I make with the the goat's milk or shea "soft," but there definitely is a difference.

PrairieAnnie gave me a tip to add beeswax to make a harder bar (I hope she doesn't mind me sharing). You could do the same with cocoa butter. Here's a tip. Melt it all together. It takes a while, but you'll end up saving time in the long run.

The first time I melted beeswax with m&p I thought it took too darn long for the beeswax to melt, so I got the big idea of melting it in the microwave and then adding it into my melting pot with the liquified m&p. Bad move. The beeswax was way hotter than the m&p, so when I poured it into the soap it solidifed again, so I had to stir, and stir, and stir to get it fully incorporated into the soap.

[xsami3000x]

Last I looked wisteria lane's base is SFIC base.

How are the bars being kept? If they sit somewhere that they can't dry after use, poof and they're gone, could that be it?

I have noticed some difference between the longevity of the white oatmeal and clear versus the goat milk and shea, which seem to be softer and dissappear faster.

Sami

[mappam]

Thank you all SOO much!

I do now wonder if it is just the "low sweat" base that I am using vs the other types?

I have a rack where I let all my soap cure. I pour into the molds then when it is removed from the mold I place the bars on this coated wire rack (so air flows all around) and let the bars cure for at least a week before I wrap them.

I wrap my finished bars in "Sam's wrap" - plastic wrap from Sams or Wal-mart that stretches).

Jazz - I am only adding 7 ml of FO to a pound of base - that seems to be the magic number for "not too much/not too little".

Should I cure longer?

Also - what dye have you guys found to be the best that doesn't 'bleed' into the other layers.

Thanks again