Jump to content

New CB135 user

Recommended Posts

Hello all. I'm brand new to candlemaking and have gotten so much great information from past posts. I just got my first batch of CB135 about a week ago and waiting for it to cure. The more I read though, the more I get discouraged about the wax. There seems to be more negative than positive. I only intend on making container candles and scent is important to me. I love using the soy/non parrafin angle, but scent throw is so important to me that I may end up switching to 70/30.

Is there anyone that just loves their 135 and wouldn't trade it for the world? Or am I setting my self up for defeat.

Again, thank you for all of your imput

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bob,

Many people don't like ECO Advanced soy wax either - yet that is the wax I used for over a year - I liked it and I didn't care if people liked it or not - I had my own reasons for using it.

There is no perfect wax. You picked a soy wax and the majority of soy waxes will frost and/or will have other issues. Some separate very easily from containers, some don't throw as well as others, etc. I tried the parasoys and there was a drawback for me with them as well - one I didn't want to deal with. If your main concern is throw and throw alone then you might as well just go and start testing paraffin container waxes right now.

I started with soy, then went to an "advanced soy" then to a parasoy blend, now I'm back to CB135. I'm currently testing paraffin container waxes myself and may use my current soy (CB135) for some containers (like tins) and paraffin for others, like glass. Or, if I think I like paraffin for containers better and can work around whatever I come across, I'll use that alone. Don't feel married to any one wax or vendor - you will find that MANY people here have changed waxes over the course of time.

I really wouldn't worry about what people say about about a wax that YOU have chosen. The question is, do YOU like it. Can you (and do you want to) work around its particular idiosincracies to make candles you are satisfied with.

There is always the latest and greatest wax out there - everyone runs to test it, some like it, some don't. Some people love a wax (say "Joy wax") but won't use it because of shipping distance to them also. As a matter of fact, that is one of the reasons I also went with ECO waxes - you can get them at many places - you aren't limited to only one vendor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bob,

I have to agree with Henry here.

I'm currently comparing Eco cba & another cb from a British supplier & I'm planning on adding CB135 to the equation with a view to finding a preference (maybe I'm dreaming, but at least my dreams smell nice).

I haven't tried any soy/para blends, I'm still enjoying soy too much to bother.

It really is all personal preference, what works for one person may not work for you but don't be disheartened. Experimenting is all part of the fun.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Start off with samples of every new wax you want to try in addition to sampler packs of wicks. GL's 70/30 is a great soy blend with little to no appearance issues depending on your container. I've used it in a 7.5 oz. status/metro jar and a 10oz. keepsake jar...I find it adhears better to the status/metro jar than the keepsake and not sure why but the keepsake just had some wet spots...no frosting (pre or post burn)...still a pretty candle with smooth perfect tops each and every time, never a surprise. Scent throw has been wonderful when using good FOs at 6%. A good 5-7 day cure time is needed. Problem with pure soy is you have a lot of appearance issues in addition to sink holes which you have to fix with heat gun or 2nd pour. IMO, it doesn't make a 'pretty' looking candle. To test scent throw on pure soy I found a good 2wks cure is needed. I would highly recommend a sample of GL's 70/30 if you're new to candle making & want great scent throw. It's an easy wax to work with. I also recommend wicking down as much as possible (hang up on sides that will go away later as it burns) to reduce soot. I was able to wick my metro/status jar FINALLY with no visible soot. They have their own board to so you can ask more specific questions pertaining to the wax too. HTHs :) .

Edit this to say, I poured hotter for the 10oz. keepsake jar today and did not have any wetspots when cooled. Larger diameter seems to need to be poured hotter than smaller ones maybe??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bob, welcome to the board. I use the CB135 for all my containers. I chose it because of it's smooth appearance, hot and cold throw and the fact that I can pick it up, and save on shipping. I agree with Henry, every brand is a different animal, my advice is to pick yours and then tame it.

Here are some of my hard won tips if you choose the CB135:

Fragrance-A lot of FO's just do not work with soy, in general. CB135 is no different. Trial and error and patience are a must. When you find a hit, it's really a hit! Seriously. Fragrance load from 3-10% depending. Add FO @ 175 or higher, pour below 125.

Buy a heat gun to fix the tops-or just go ahead and pull out all of your hair now.

Wicking-HTP, CD and Eco wicks work for me. But, it is not as simple as "Use CD12 with the 9oz jar." Wick size differs greatly based on fragrance. Ocean, for instance may take an HTP83, while Vanilla in the same size jar needs an ECO10. Again, trial and error, patience.

I can't give advice about color, don't use it, added a whole dimension of technical and appearance issues that I did not care to wrestle with.

Overall, I recommend the CB135, I have great results, and get positive feedback and re-orders. Hope this helps, and good luck!


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...