CandleCouture Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 The jar measures:Height 4 1/8"Rim 3 3/8"Base 3 1/8" Any suggestions for double wick starting points with Eco Wicks and with Cotton cores? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandleCouture Posted May 4, 2006 Author Share Posted May 4, 2006 Forgot to mention that I use Greenleaf's 70/30 blend, and use anywhere between 6% and 10% FO, depending on the actual FO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carol k Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 with the cotton wicks if one 62 doesn't work i use 2-60's or 2-51 depends on the oil for triple wicking i use 3-44's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 This container does not need to be double wicked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandleCouture Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 That's debateable, however, I will be double wicking it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 That's debateable, however, I will be double wicking it.Actually it's not a debate~ it's pure fact.By double wicking this container you are greatly decreasing the burn time.If you plan on selling- these are things to consider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandleCouture Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 It's pure fact? That is pretty comical. Again, however, I will be double wicking. And, as for decreasing burn time, I don't think so. Two Eco 1's for example, would burn at a rate MUCH slower than one Eco 14, and, THAT is pure fact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandleCouture Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 By the way, to say that a container that is MORE than three inches in diameter is able to be single wicked is fine, as that is your opinion. But to say that it's FACT is absurd. Consider the fact that many people have trouble single wicking Metro Jars, which are smaller (3" in diameter). Furthermore, I use a soy blend, and tend to use higher amounts of Fragrance Oil. I would say that to have an opinion is fine, but, to think of it as fact probably isn't.By the way, I've TRIED single wicking these, and it just doesn't work, so, I guess you can call me the "fact buster."Two Eco-1's for example, would consume wax at about 0.28 oz/hour (according to published charts). One Eco-14 would consume the wax at about 0.33 oz/hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 It's pure fact? That is pretty comical. Again, however, I will be double wicking. And, as for decreasing burn time, I don't think so. Two Eco 1's for example, would burn at a rate MUCH slower than one Eco 14, and, THAT is pure fact.LMAO! Surely you jest. Let me tell you this. You can think and do whatever you please. It's your right. You can do all the research online and asking for opinions/suggestions all over this board. That is what it was designed for. However, no one here is going to put up with your sarcastic, know it all attitude. Especially me. I have tried to give you as much information as I can to many of your questions. That's not theory- it's FACT.I have over 5000 posts on the old CT and have been making candles for well over 15 years in MANY different elements. I don't care how deep you claim your pockets are. It's not going to gain you anything here responding to posts like that. It was completely unwarranted.As far as "fact busting" being thrown into the equation, I don't know what wicking you are using or you FO percentages- perhaps it isn't feasible for you. I have single wicked this tumbler. It can be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandleCouture Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 Know it all? I'm not the one who claimed that my opinion was fact. That was you.So, let's get back to my original question. Namely, a starting point for double wicking a jar that is almost 3.5" wide (hardly fact that you can single wick it).Please note that your first post didn't in any way address my question. I do value your opinion, however, your opinion is in no way FACT, nor should you mistake it as such. In addition, since by your own admission, you don't know what type of FO percentage, or what type of wax, or anything else about how I make candles, maybe rather than come on and say that it's a FACT that you can single wick this container, you should have asked these things? Or, possibly, you should have assumed that I was asking for the simple reason that I had tried and been unable to?So, CAN you single wick this container? Sure. But, given the right set of circumstances, you could single wick a 26oz apothecary jar (with a monster wick, no fragrance oil, in a straight paraffin). However, this jar, which is almost 3.5" in diameter, can NOT BE single wicked properly, given my set of circumstances, which is why I asked for starting point suggestions.I'm starting with Eco-1's and working up from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth-VT Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Well....I can tell you that two Eco-1's won't cut it, and two Eco-2's will be too damn hot. And it can be single wicked, an Eco 14 will probably do it. As much as your theory about the burn rates sounds good, it doesn't necessarily hold true. 2 wicks produce much more heat in the jar, creating a quicker melt pool as you go. With the increased heat and draft from the flames, the wicks will absorb and burn off absoltely as much as they can, and they will. You'll have a higher combustion rate......meaning the burn rate for each of the 2 wicks will be greater than a single identical wick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandleCouture Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 Beth, again, I have tried to single wick, with an Eco-14, Premier 798, and 62C, and it can't be done given my wax and FO Load. And, as for combustion rates, it is NOT a concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 CC~ I do not feel the need for the analysis on how your perceive my posts. I would be more than happy to help you~ however, make no mistake that you are not dealing with some novice. What will work for one- may not work for another. Plain and simple. It's not quantum physics. I was stating my opinion. In my realm of candlemaking- it is fact. If it doesn't work for other's- I would be more than happy to try and guide them in the right direction. Be it as you will.I would suggest not to sink too much thought into those wicking charts.They are not always correct. Plus you will always have variables to consider.Back to your question. What exactly is your FO percentage? Are you using straight GL 70/30 wax? I see you have a few kinds of wick listed. Have you tried any other kinds? I don't use ECO wicks.The largest LX wick or a CD 22 is a good starting point for this container. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandleCouture Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 No, I've only tested the Premier 700 series (discarded...to much soot), Cotton Core, and Eco's.And, I never said you were a novice, nor did I think so, and, the fact that you have now said that what works for someone may not work for another simply proves that this isn't fact. That's all I was saying.Oh, and, as for FO percentage. I'm using up to 10%, as I'm going after a VERY strong scent throw. Some FO's are requiring only 6%, others, up to 10%. And, yeah, using straight 70/30 from GL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth-VT Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 How many times are your burning (and for how long) before you are deciding that single wicking isn't working? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 I do not think it is possible to single wick with the type of wicking you are using. They do sell a larger cotton wick (Peaks) that possibly could work. It will require a few test burns on more than one fragrance oil to gauge true results. I personally threw cotton wicks to the wayside- I don't care for the mushrooming and smoking that this type of wicking can be notorious for in most applications. I know very little about ECO wicks. I tested them in a few containers and wasn't overjoyed on their performance.I do comprehend that you are going for maximum scent throw. Not all fragrances will throw super strong. No matter what the supplier, wax formulation or additive. You will see moving forward in your testing that some fragrances do not fill a room. Not by supplier- but actual fragrance name.My suggestion to you would be to try a larger wick in another variety or to keep testing to your own liking with the ECO series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandleCouture Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 Ok, then, if you were trying to single wick this container, which wick would YOU use, then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth-VT Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 (squeezing in here before MA...)I use mainly Eco's, have for years. My main tin is just a hair under 3-1/4", and I single wick with Eco-12's all the time, sometimes an Eco-14. That's with a 50/50 blend, and am currently testing a 70/30 blend now with similar results. On tougher oils I've used CD's, maybe a 16. I prefer the Eco's cuz they rarely mushroom, the CD's do much more so but burn well. I'm also finding (in the 70/30) that the HTP's burn nice, a 1212 might work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Ok, then, if you were trying to single wick this container, which wick would YOU use, then?An LX 30 or CD 22.Are you using any type of colorants? If so, what kind and what percentage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandleCouture Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 No color at all. Now, in addition to the fact that I have not been able to single wick thus far (although I've not yet tried your suggestions), I'm also after the greatest possible scent throw, and, I believe that double wicking would aid in that regard also.However, I will attempt to single wick with the wicks you just suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandleCouture Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 One more question. Aren't CD and LX wicks pretty much identical (only from different manufacturers)? Also, do they produce less soot/black smoke than most wicks out there? And, how hot do they burn in relation to, say, Cotton Core wicks, which supposedly burn the hottest of any wicks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 No color should be even easier to wick.I do believe that double wicking can increase scent throw by a few degrees.But I am still thinking this GL blend can be single wicked. I have single wicked this container with my own proprietary blend~ thus the reason why I state it can be done. It doesn't contain any paraffin so it was a bit of a challenge.I am almost certain that Henryk had posted a very detailed experiment including various pics on how LX wicks worked for him in a different tumbler container. It showed the difference between several other wicks and results of several different test burns. It might be worth a look if you are interested. I am not sure if its on this board or the archives of the old. I think he was using Parasoy, which has similiar properties compared to the GL blend.To answer your question- yes, LX and CD wicks are almost identical. Cotton cores do burn the hottest and these wicks (LX:CD) are coreless. But they do burn quite hot and work for me in most applications and I use all natural wax. I personally have had virtually no issues with sooting with this type of wicking.Do keep in mind- we all have variables to consider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CelestialSoyCandles Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Sorry to butt in - but I wouldnt double wick it either - I have never double wicked - if a container is too big for one wick - I dont use - I dont like how double wicked candles burn, look and the amount of heat generated is a concern too me.. Heather Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandleCouture Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 Fair enough, but, those are all really matters of opinion. I don't mind how they look and, in my opinion, if you wick them correctly, they burn just as evenly as single wicked containers. As for the heat of the jar, again, proper wicking would take care of this (leaving enough room between the wick and the jar, and not using too big a wick). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystical_angel1219 Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Sorry to butt in - but I wouldnt double wick it either - I have never double wicked - if a container is too big for one wick - I dont use - I dont like how double wicked candles burn, look and the amount of heat generated is a concern too me.. HeatherAh Heather.. you do have valid points.I have read about people triple wicking containers as small as an 8 oz tin.I guess it all comes down to preference. It also would be wise to take into consideration the duration of how long a consumer would burn the actual finished product. Some of these containers are not designed to withstand that high of a heat level for hours on end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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