BrySC Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 I've read what y'all say about additives, and tried a few...but I still am not sure I understand. What I've been doing is using vybar in everything NON-mottled...and stearic acid is anything I want to mottle. (I read that vybar inhibits mottling) I haven't been playing with mottled candles much lately, so I'm not even using the stearic acid I have. Does this sound right? Only using vybar? I know that eventually I'll want to use UV inhibitor, but just haven't gotten to that level yet.Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mozzie Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Hi, I'm no expert but (with that proviso out of the way) my understanding is that Vybar inhibits mottling but increases opacity and scent retention. Stearine increases opacity plus hardness and increases burn time and UV Inhibitor reduces fading of colours. In mottles I use neither stearine nor vybar but use both in rustics. HTH. Mozzie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cybersix Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 No expert here too, but from what I can understand if you use Vybar you don't need stearin (stearic acid) and viceversa!You can read something here:http://www.candlemaking.org.uk/additives.htmlHTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 I've read what y'all say about additives, and tried a few...but I still am not sure I understand. What I've been doing is using vybar in everything NON-mottled...and stearic acid is anything I want to mottle. (I read that vybar inhibits mottling) I haven't been playing with mottled candles much lately, so I'm not even using the stearic acid I have. Does this sound right? Only using vybar? I know that eventually I'll want to use UV inhibitor, but just haven't gotten to that level yet.Thanks! Stearic can have some of the same effects as Vybar if you put 20% in your mixture, but it's generally better and more convenient to use the Vybar for candles that are supposed to have a smooth, opaque look.Most additives suppress mottling, so stearic is your best option for mottled candles. More than a few grains of Vybar would eliminate the mottled look.Certain combinations of additives can be useful too. Generally you don't need to use Vybar and stearic together but you can experiment with that if you like.Adding a little UV inhibitor is easy. You could just start getting into the habit of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judyvega Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 But, you can use vybar 343 for mottles. It is intended for use w/mottled candles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 But, you can use vybar 343 for mottles. It is intended for use w/mottled candles.You can use it, there's just not much reason to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judyvega Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 why do you say that? I find that if I use stearic alone, I get seepage, but if I use the two together, I don't. But maybe that's just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 why do you say that? I find that if I use stearic alone, I get seepage, but if I use the two together, I don't. But maybe that's just me.Eliminating seepage at room temperature is a matter of refining the formula and procedure, as well as using the right materials. The highest quality mottles start with zero tendency to bleed once they're cool, and that can totally be achieved with only stearic.The trickier consideration is preventing oil migration if the candle should get hot, for instance during shipping in warm weather. Vybar 343 only makes that worse, which is acknowledged by the manufacturer.Apart from failing to do the most useful thing it could do, it has no beneficial effect on the hardness of the wax, hence the burn quality. I like my mottles to consume themselves hands-free while the sides stay arrow straight. 343 not only doesn't contribute to that, but it lowers the melting point even more than stearic.In quantities that might be useful for refining the aesthetics of a mottled candle, 343 tends to compromise mold release and send the wicking requirements through the roof.I've spent crazy amounts of time testing this stuff every which way possible, but I could always make a better candle and better solve any problem without it. Some of the most famous high-quality mottles on the commercial market (with exceptional resistance to oil migration) use only stearic.BP has a higher-MP version of this additive now but I haven't seen it available. I doubt either version is going to catch on in a big way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judyvega Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Eliminating seepage at room temperature is a matter of refining the formula and procedure, as well as using the right materials. The highest quality mottles start with zero tendency to bleed once they're cool, and that can totally be achieved with only stearic.The trickier consideration is preventing oil migration if the candle should get hot, for instance during shipping in warm weather. Vybar 343 only makes that worse, which is acknowledged by the manufacturer.Apart from failing to do the most useful thing it could do, it has no beneficial effect on the hardness of the wax, hence the burn quality. I like my mottles to consume themselves hands-free while the sides stay arrow straight. 343 not only doesn't contribute to that, but it lowers the melting point even more than stearic.In quantities that might be useful for refining the aesthetics of a mottled candle, 343 tends to compromise mold release and send the wicking requirements through the roof.I've spent crazy amounts of time testing this stuff every which way possible, but I could always make a better candle and better solve any problem without it. Some of the most famous high-quality mottles on the commercial market (with exceptional resistance to oil migration) use only stearic.BP has a higher-MP version of this additive now but I haven't seen it available. I doubt either version is going to catch on in a big way.I see. I guess I'll have to keep playing around w/just the stearic alone and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsmejeffd Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 We can always count on Top for the technical and very accurate information. Most of us know what to do to get a desired result but Top understands why that result is achieved. Top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mizbizzyb Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 We can always count on Top for the technical and very accurate information. Most of us know what to do to get a desired result but Top understands why that result is achieved. Top This is soooo true! And he is not stingy with his knowledge. Top rocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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