Thinking of making this today... sound ok?

[Regina Filange]

I was thinking of making this today, but wanted to run it by the soap pros first!

I'll be doing it the CPHP way.

Recipe:

Soft Oils-

4 oz. Sweet Almond Oil

4 oz. Apricot Kernal Oil

4 oz. Olive Oil

4 oz. Safflower Oil

Hard Oils-

5 oz. Palm Kernal Oil

5 oz. Lard

4 oz. Coconut Oil

2 oz. Shea Butter

Lye Solution-

12 oz. Distilled Water

4.43 oz. Lye

2 oz. Sodium Lactate (will mix with Lye Solution)

At trace add:

2 oz. FO (Not sure what kind yet)

Colorant

~~~~~~~~~~~

Is there anything you see that should be changed? I'm really looking to make a nice cleansing bar of soap that won't dry out my skin. I've got really dry skin as it is and would like the make soap that is really moisturizing and will help my dry flaky skin.

I tried to create a recipe that keeps the Coconut Oil under 15% and the Palm Kernal Oil under 20% so it won't be drying (as read in another post).

Am I using too much Shea Butter? If so... what should I replace it with, more Lard?

Thanks so much for any help you can provide!

~RF~

[Janis]

I think your recipe looks lovely. You have lots of linoleic and oleic, which will make a conditioning bar. The numbers look good. There are two things to consider: 1) do you really need sodium lactate (I think you'll have a nice, hard bar without it, and 2) make the recipe and let it cure. If you still have dry, flakey (and especially itchy) skin, then take out the coconut oil altogether and just use pko. Some people are allergic to co and it won't matter how low you go, you will still feel it.

If this is your first time making soap, stick with full water. If not, I'd reduce the water a bit. Multiply your lye amount by 2 and use that amount of water. So for this recipe, use 8.86 oz. of water. That way, you'll have less of a cure time. Make sure you use a tried and true fo (check out the reviews here or on "the scent review" (latherings).

[Regina Filange]

I think your recipe looks lovely. You have lots of linoleic and oleic, which will make a conditioning bar. The numbers look good. There are two things to consider: 1) do you really need sodium lactate (I think you'll have a nice, hard bar without it, and 2) make the recipe and let it cure. If you still have dry, flakey (and especially itchy) skin, then take out the coconut oil altogether and just use pko. Some people are allergic to co and it won't matter how low you go, you will still feel it.

If this is your first time making soap, stick with full water. If not, I'd reduce the water a bit. Multiply your lye amount by 2 and use that amount of water. So for this recipe, use 8.86 oz. of water. That way, you'll have less of a cure time. Make sure you use a tried and true fo (check out the reviews here or on "the scent review" (latherings).

This will be my 2nd time doing Crock pot hot process. The first time I used much more lard and no coconut or Palm. The soap is "ok" but a little slimy when using it. I want more lather. The reason I'm using Sodium Lactate is because it was recommended since the first batch of soap hardened so quickly, that I didn't have time to get it into the molds. The bars come out rather chunky looking, and I wanted a more professional looking bar. I don't know if the Coconut will cause a problem for me, as I haven't used it yet. But I did read another post that said too much of either (coco or palm) can make you dry and ichy. I'll just have to try and see. I wanted to use coco cuz it will help with the lather (so I've read). I think I do want to stick with full water just because I'm hoping it will make the soap smoother and give me a little more time to mold (along with the help of the sodium lactate). I'll be sure to check out the scent review and see what it says. Right now I'm thinking about Peaks' Cool Citrus Basil. I will be waiting until tomorrow to get started.

Thanks for your time and info!

[Bunny]

I don't do HP, but was under the impression that you add in the SL at the end of the cook? MMS says at 1/2 oz ppo...

Just wondering out loud..lol

[Janis]

Sorry, I didn't know you were doing hp. I don't know about sodium lactate in hp. Remember that pko and co really do the same thing. They make the bar hard and lathery. So, you can replace the co with pko in any recipe. Go ahead and try your recipe and see how your skin feels. It may be fine. But if not, try replacing the co with all pko. Also, I've never thought that palm make your skin feel dry. Actually, I like the feel of palm. JMHO, lol.

[Regina Filange]

Hmm?

If you look at this thread: http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16965

Someone was telling me to use the SL, to add to the Lye solution, and to use it at 1 oz. per pound of oils. That's what they've done and it's been successful.

I'm not sure what to do now?

[Amish Ragdoll]

Hmm?

If you look at this thread: http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16965

Someone was telling me to use the SL, to add to the Lye solution, and to use it at 1 oz. per pound of oils. That's what they've done and it's been successful.

I'm not sure what to do now?

Hi Regina!

That was me suggesting SL. Look at the thread again....it is .5oz. per pound.

MMS suggests that you add the SL solution to the lye water. It is written towards the bottom of the calculated recipe. When building your recipe just remember to check the box for SL recommendations, it is after you choose your type of lye.

In case you do not have the link to the MMS Lye Calculator, here it is:

http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php

Here is a link to other peoples opinions on SL: http://www.soapdishforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=19242&hl=

Please remember that individual results may vary, what may work for one may not work for another....if you've every made a soy candle, you'll understand my meaning...that also goes for soapmaking as well. I'm not trying to discourage you in any way, just stating facts. But from what I've read most people love using SL. I know I do!

Your recipe looks good except the SL. Try 1 ounce. That will make it .5 ppo.

If you have more questions, just yell. I 'll try to help as much as I can!

[soapermom]

Hmm?

If you look at this thread: http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16965

Someone was telling me to use the SL, to add to the Lye solution, and to use it at 1 oz. per pound of oils. That's what they've done and it's been successful.

I'm not sure what to do now?

this is the first time I have noticed your screen name and I am cracking up:laugh2:

[Bunny]

Hi Regina!

That was me suggesting SL. Look at the thread again....it is .5oz. per pound.

MMS suggests that you add the SL solution to the lye water. It is written towards the bottom of the calculated recipe. When building your recipe just remember to check the box for SL recommendations, it is after you choose your type of lye.

In case you do not have the link to the MMS Lye Calculator, here it is:

http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php

Here is a link to other peoples opinions on SL: http://www.soapdishforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=19242&hl=

Please remember that individual results may vary, what may work for one may not work for another....if you've every made a soy candle, you'll understand my meaning...that also goes for soapmaking as well. I'm not trying to discourage you in any way, just stating facts. But from what I've read most people love using SL. I know I do!

Your recipe looks good except the SL. Try 1 ounce. That will make it .5 ppo.

If you have more questions, just yell. I 'll try to help as much as I can!

Interesting! Thanks for the clarification!

[Regina Filange]

Oops. My mistake! I'll lower the amount to 1 oz. for this recipe then. THANKS! Interesting thread at the soapdish.

SoaperMom - I like the name too!

If I can ever get things done around here, I'd like to get started on it. I know the UPS man is showing today, so I better wait.

Thanks for the help everyone!