C-3 Wicking Question??

[TallPineCandles]

Ok, trying a new wax. C-3. So far it seems good but I am early in my testing as of yet. Here is my question. The wick guide I follow tells me to use a CD-22 on my jars and a ECO-14 on my tins when using this wax. After 2 hours of burning I don't think this is correct. (See Photos) Any suggestions?

 

And this is straight C-3...no F/O or Dye. Melted to 185, poured at 165. Cooled 48 hours before burning. The jar is a 8.5 oz straight side tumbler and has a CD-22 wick. The tin is a 8 oz Candle tin and has a ECO-14 wick.

 

I am going to gather I need to wick-up. But the question is "How Far"?

[TallPineCandles]

Ok everyone. Went ahead and wicked-up to an ECO-16 on both samples.

[TallTayl]

C3 requires much longer than 48 hours before you get a true sense of the wick needed. If you poked down into the middle around the wick it would probably still be the texture of canned frosting, or at least leave a bit of dampness on the poker. After a decent cure, it becomes more “dry” and grainy feeling as you dig into it. Anecdotally, The dryness seems to go hand in hand with improved HT. 
 

The issues I have had testing too early is tunneling, since the middle is so much easier to burn than the outer part which had hardened considerably more.  
 

once cured, you may need to wick up (or down) depending on the case lot you have on hand, and of course any other additives you happen to add like color or FO. 

[TallTayl]

Adding, 2 hours in I would not expect that melt pool to be any wider than it is.if you get to full melt pool on the first burn you are definitely overwicked on that wax.

 

likewise, when wicking up, make sure to heat gun the surface back to somewhat level or you will get a false reading on the new wick. Let the candle cool for at least 5 or so hours between burns so the wax has a bit of a chance to set back up.  24 hours would be better,  The bigger wick will melt more of the already somewhat deep softened  melt pool outward and flood the wick zone with wax making it appear that bigger wick is undersized. 

[TallPineCandles]

7 hours ago, TallTayl said:

make sure to heat gun the surface back to somewhat level or you will get a false reading on the new wick.

 

Daaaa!! I never thought for one second to level out the top!! Boy....I was more impressed with the fact I could change out the wick as I did...LOL. So now I am going to level out the top and let these set over night. 

 

One quick question TallTayl....How long do suggest I let my "unscented, dye free" candle cure before testing for the proper wick??

[TallPineCandles]

UPDATE: Ok, surface is now somewhat level (Image 2). I now see what you meant by the center being like canned frosting (Image 1).

 

 

[TallTayl]

10 hours ago, TallPineCandles said:

 

Daaaa!! I never thought for one second to level out the top!! Boy....I was more impressed with the fact I could change out the wick as I did...LOL. So now I am going to level out the top and let these set over night. 

 

One quick question TallTayl....How long do suggest I let my "unscented, dye free" candle cure before testing for the proper wick??

I am so happy you are mastering the wick tricks! Leveling the top was a definite improvement in the process.

 

kind of amazing how Soft the soy wax is in the middle of a fresh candle, isn’t it? Sure does explain that curing is not a myth. 
 

I noticed a remarkable hardness difference after 5 days. 2 weeks is even better. Every once in a while I do an exploratory surgery on candles to see what is going on inside, the differences you cannot see which really make wick selection important happen for a couple of weeks beyond that. The larger the candle, the longer it takes to hit that “final” point where the wick will be the wick for that candle. 
 

pretty sure I have C3 in enough quantity in my shop to do the second wax/wick comparisons. Freedom wax is first.  I just need to put it all together and get past my camera shyness to video everything.