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Best Low Moisture MP


chuck_35550

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I'm not a M&P expert by any standard, but I do fairly well in sales at our shop considering my limitations.

 

I believe that the most irksome, frustrating and difficult issue with Melt and Pour Soap manufacturing is the tendency to "sweat". I've bought, tested and evaluated virtually every base that I could find during a two year intense study of the product and it's manufacturing processes. I've played with additives, adjusted temperatures, fragrance loads, humidity control, wrapping techniques and even said prayers over batches while still in the liquid state. I'm convinced there is no easy (or even moderately difficult) solution to the consistent elimination of "glycerin dew". I have, however, learned some interesting things about the subject that have allowed me to remain in business. I no longer fear the dreaded sweats, even during the highly humid months the Mid-Atlantic region is famous for. I'll elaborate; 

 

1.) Start with the right base. There are a lot of bases out there that are designed to produce various results. Even the worse of them will make a usable bar of soap. The best of them, however, make a product that I believe can compete with a well made cold processed product. Please let's not debate the merits of the two here. Many if not most soapers will never be swayed by even the strongest argument, to change their opinions of which is better; CP, HP or M&P. A bigger issue, however, for the crafter interested in M&P is;

 

A.) Is "All Natural" a requirement or not? This is a big deal, but again, no argument please. I personally would love to be able to claim that all of my soap is "All Natural - Vegan and environmentally friendly and . . .!!!  I've personally abandoned this approach, though for several reasons. Again, not the issue of the topic, but it will make a difference  as to what base(s) you'll be using.

 

B.) Cost

 

C.) Supplier

 

D.) Style(s)

 

2.) Fragrance choice. M&P is affected by fragrance selection almost as much as CP only in slightly different ways. I've learned what FO's work the best for me and simply do not use those that don't regardless of their IFRA rating or how nice they smell. Some FO's simply make soap sweat. I doubt that my search for perfect soap fragrances will ever end.

 

3.) Method of heating/melting. Microwave/Crock Pot/Presto/Double Boiler. I like the microwave method, but I am very careful that the base is heated very slowly and not over-cooked. I cover the container to keep the moisture content in balance. This may be the biggest factor in making soap that sweats. Some suppliers claim so.

 

4.) Additives. No easy answer here so I'm going to avoid it, but consider that everything we put into the recipe affects the finished result. Many suppliers claim that no additives should be added. (NOT!) Be prudent and logical, though.

 

5.) Cooling and curing. I will never again place a mold full of M&P into refrigeration. If I have a mold that doesn't release easily, I pitch it.

 

6.) Wrapping. This is my biggest disappointment with making M&P, but alas I can (yet) find an alternative to promptly wrapping the finished bars. I use restaurant grade clear food wrap. The label I use does a nice job of concealing "the ugly side". There must be some slight osmosis taking place, though. Despite the tight seal, I can still smell the soap even months after wrapping. "It's a good thing", however. Martha Stewart would be proud, but it does make me wonder???

 

7.) Re-Melting. One of the selling points of M&P to crafters is the fact that M&P can be "recycled". I've learned that this might lead to sweating, though. I keep reformulated soap for personal use and gifting.

 

8.) Mixing brands. It has been suggested by at least one major supplier that mixing bases from different manufactures may lead to excessive sweating. (Brambleberry/Soap Queen)

 

OK, Here's the summation;

 

I use the Canadian produced bases that can be obtained from several suppliers. I get mine from Candlewic. I buy it when they have (regular) shipping discount promotions. This is the best price I've found without having to buy a truckload. It comes in two pound and five pound blocks. I use several styles, but I've found that the Coconut Oil base produces the best lather.

 

I add about 1TBS of stearic acid per pound to harden the bars. My second biggest disappointment with M&P is the softness of the bars.

 

My second choice would be the bases sold by Essentials By Catalina. Various reasons for this.

 

My least favorite was Crafters Choice which is sold by Wholesale Plus and Soaper's Choice and quite a few craft stores. I purchased over 300 pounds of "All Natural/Low Sweat" base from WSP during a sale promotion. It was by far the worst sweating base I have ever used. Others have said the same, while still others have claimed they had no issues with it. It gives me a headache just thinking about the misinformation, varying opinions, and variables of this craft.

 

I've made soap that I keep uncovered near the kitchen sink that is completely dew-free and soap that turned to jelly that was wrapped while still warm. I don't think there is a simple solution, but if you are careful and deliberate I believe you can "lick the dew". Well, I guess you know what I mean! (lol)

 

I actually didn't write this with the intention of directing it to Steve. I know he's a much more talented soaper than I am. This post was really meant to reach those lurkers and newbies to M&P in the hopes that it may at least give them something to ponder as they make their own journey into this fun, but sometimes frustrating world of smelly soaps. 

 

I hope that Candy Burgan (Candybee) jumps in here and posts if she hasn't already while I was composing. She truly is a M&P soap expert. She's moved on into the world of CP soap making, but she was a major inspiration and source of information to me as I was beginning my own venture into Melt and Pour.

 

Good luck

 

Dave

 

 

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Thanks for the reply. I too bought the clear and goat milk low sweat mp from wsp. Not good. I use gel colorants and they do a great job but over time turn dark or morph. I usually make a lot of football related soaps for the season but lately have found the bases to be so unstable that it can be embarrassing. I like to make the mp spheres for the tops of my cp soaps and have a silicone column heart mold that is way cool but again I hate to see them weeping in the finished product. I think the two mediums together are awesome when making jeweled soaps or layered soaps but first things first is to find that true low sweat clear or opaque base.

 

Steve

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I contacted WSP when I had my issues and was basically advised that I didn't know how to make M&P soap.

 

The "expert" who told me that had no reply when I told her that it was sweating in the box before I melted it except that I should let it "set-out for a while" to let it dry out and then scrape the dew off of the finished bars before wrapping them. I could sense that the customer rep was somewhat embarrassed. I don't think I was the only complainant she had dealt with over sweating no-sweat soap base. I actually felt a bit sorry for her. She wasn't rude so I gave her a "pass".

 

The claims in their advertising were that their detergent free/low sweat M&P was virtually identical to CP soap and did not need to be wrapped.  With knowledge that I had purchased whole cases of product she offered to accept returns (at my expense) of un-opened 2 pound packages.

 

I posted my opinions of the products on their website  in the customer review section. My comments were displayed, but they were edited. Nothing I wrote was rude or untrue, however.

 

I was more than slightly disappointed, but I moved on and I have bought from them again. No soap bases, though.

 

If you find a true no-sweat base how about letting us know. I've personally stopped searching. I don't know where else to look.

 

Best of luck!

 

Dave

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  • 2 weeks later...

I also live in Alabama and over the years the humidity has "killed" many a pretty bar of soap! I started using SFIC low sweat bases and so far, so good! I have a couple test bars I made that have been sitting on the counter for months without one sweat bead! I haven't tried the low sweat clear base, just the white.

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