Ray Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Been getting a large sink hole in every jar candle (after it's poured and starts cooling) when using 6006. Need to use a heat gun or hair dryer to fill it in. The hole is pretty good size and usually goes 3/4 of the way down the 16oz jar. Besides that issue and wet spots the wax seems to be working well. Got some CBL130 to try out and did not get the sink holes and the wet spots weren't as bad as the 6006. Only problem with the CBL130 is I don't think the throw is as good. Have any of you tried both these waxes and noticed this? Pro's and cons of the two waxes? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emilyspoppy Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 IGI-6006 and/or CBL-130 are my secondary container waxes and primary tart waxes. They are in my opinion interchangeable. My primary container wax is IGI-4630 and/or CBL-125. I'm convinced that they are also the same formula. I have spoken will Bill Binder, owner of Candlewic, a number of times about his waxes and without actually going as far as admitting they are the very same formula he has pretty much convinced me of that. He did tell me he buys large quantities of "primary" wax from IGI. The primary difference between the two companies wax blends is that CW's waxes can be more consistent than IGI's, IN MY OPINION. I always hold my breath whenever I get in a batch of IGI wax. I test it before going into production with it because I sometimes find the formula is "off". The primary issue is the amount of petrolatum in the wax. It's fixable, but a PITA to do so. I've never had variations in CW's waxes yet. Perhaps I've just been lucky, though. The last cases of CW waxes that I received are exactly the same as the samples that Bill Binder sent me years ago. My biggest concern with switching over to only using CWs waxes is the cost of the wax as delivered to me. I'll only buy it when CW runs a shipping discount sale. Enough said, I hope. When it comes to evaluating throw, I never rely on my own nose. I always seek out opinions from people I use as testers. That's a whole other issue, too. Again, enough said, I hope. I'm not trying to persuade you are anyone else on the board to change their waxes, but I am trying to assist you with your question. Both CBL-130 and IGI-6000 have a tendency to have sink holes in containers. especially containers that are a bit narrower than tall. This might be relieved some by changing your container style, making sure the wax cools more slowly or simply resign yourself to using a heat gun. I actually prefer an embossing gun. It has good heat with less airflow which means less splatter. Neither of the these waxes are true one-pour waxes despite claims, in my opinion. They do, however, hold a large amount of FO and throw well with most fragrances. The fact that the wax does contract some, holds fragrance well and throws strongly makes it a good candidate for tart melts. I know that quite a few members are gritting their teeth as they read this, but as I stated; I'm not trying to get anyone to switch the waxes they are using or blending on their own. Good luck! JMO/HTH Dave @ Charlotte Hall Country Candles & Soaps 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Thank you Dave. I appreciate your input. One thing I forgot to mention is I also noticed the CBL130 to be a little harder of a wax as compared to 6006. Perhaps this has something to do with an additive Candlewic adds to the wax...not sure.I've tried working with straight soy wax a couple years ago and it was a nightmare. Couldn't get a scent throw to save my life. This time around figured I would try a parasoy blend and hope for better results. So far it's all over the place. Throw is better but not what I would like it. If I want that strong throw I may have to just go with a paraffin wax. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emilyspoppy Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Wax choice can be highly subjective and personal. Each has it's own traits and benefits. MOST experienced (and HONEST - LOL) chandlers will concede, however, that pure soy waxes can be harder to coax a throw from than paraffin or para-soy blends. JUST MY OPINION, though! I've already stated enough OPINIONS myself to get myself in trouble here! (LOL) 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Hahaha, Everyone has their own way of doing things. Reading through this forum and reading everyones opinion can sometimes be more confusing than anything...but I have learned a lot of tricks and tips along the way. I always say, anyone can be my teacher. There is always something to learn from every person. Does the CBL125 look like 6006 and CBL130 when hardened in the jar? I am not using any dyes. I'm beginning to think paraffin might be the way to go for me. Just hate dealing with the soot issue, but it sounds like the wicking, pouring and scent throw issues are a LOT less than working with soy or any wax with soy in it. I like a string candle and I do believe most people in general like a strong candle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OldGlory Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Hi Ray! Dave has given your some excellent advice and insight. I thought I would add .I use 6006 and 464 for a client (I wholesale). We started with 464 in jars, but they frosted on the side of the jar and so we went to 6006. It's not perfect with wet spots and sink hole issues, but I adapted. For this client, I pour a 16 oz flint jar w/ straight sides and a wide opening, and a 9 oz flint jar which is pretty narrow. I would pour both side by side and get sink holes in the smaller one but not the larger one. It's because the smaller jar is cooling at a faster rate. I never had any luck melting the tops, the hole would reappear after it hardened. So I now heat the jars a bit before pouring, I keep them warm while they are setting, and I pour just below the point where it narrows. This solved the sink hole issue.Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Thanks Old Glory. Maybe mine are cooling too fast and causing the sink holes. At first I was not heating the jars and had wet spots. Started heating the jars and still had wet spots and a big hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OldGlory Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 I'd like to ask one more question. How full are you pouring them? Are your pouring past where the neck of the jar narrows? If so, drop the level below that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Yes, I am pouring past where the neck narrows. I have been doing this because of slight shrinkage. I will try pouring just up to where it starts to narrow. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Although I did not have the sink hole issue pouring past the neck when using the CBL130 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cindym Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 I use both these waxes, for me the sink hole issue with 6006 was huge, I always remedy it with a heat gun. I have not had sink hole issues with 130, I am now pouring 8 oz masons. What temp are you pouring at. I find that if I bunch the candles together it helps with slower cooling. I heat the wax to 180, pour at 160. I thought I was having a throw problem with 130 , as was mentioned above, absolutely have someone else test. Once I start pouring candles for the season, especially for fall with all the spices, my nose is shot. I find the throw with 130 to be fine, they do need a cure time however. 6006 has great throw but you have to be willing to do the work with the issues it presents. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 Cindym sounds like we have similar issues with 6006. I heat the 6006 to about 180-185, add the FO, stir for a couple minutes and pour. By this time the temp is about 160. I am using zinc wicks so maybe i'm not getting a hot enough burn and that is affecting the hot throw. I just ordered a sample 2lb slab of 4630 from peak to test that wax as well. If the smoking isn't bad and it's easier to work with I might switch over to that. We'll see. I like the look of the soy candle and I believe the finished product on 4630 looks like soy ( I could be wrong) I will stick with that if it works. At this early stage i'm not married to any particular wax! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cindym Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 I use zincs with 6006, I find that it burns hot. The other thing I forgot to mention is that the 130 can hold more fo than the 6006, the 6006 saturates pretty easily. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 I use zincs with 6006, I find that it burns hot. The other thing I forgot to mention is that the 130 can hold more fo than the 6006, the 6006 saturates pretty easily. Good to know that! Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vernie1 Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 I'm test burning 6006 as we speak and so far I haven't seen any wet spots although this wax seems to be proned to it lol. I keep my jars in the even on a 170 degrees which is the warm setting. I only remove them right before I mix my fragrance. The glasses will be very hot to touch but I use a oven mitten. So far this seems to help but slow cooling also helps. Ray have you tried covering your candles like in a cardboard box to help slow the cooling of the candles? HTH 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 I'm test burning 6006 as we speak and so far I haven't seen any wet spots although this wax seems to be proned to it lol. I keep my jars in the even on a 170 degrees which is the warm setting. I only remove them right before I mix my fragrance. The glasses will be very hot to touch but I use a oven mitten. So far this seems to help but slow cooling also helps. Ray have you tried covering your candles like in a cardboard box to help slow the cooling of the candles? HTHI have warmed them in the oven and that didn't seem to make a bit of difference. I will have to try the cardboard box idea and see if that helps! Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renaymarie Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 I find that when I wrap my jars with a dish towel as they cool, they don't get the sink holes. Probably works the same as the card board box would! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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