lindsaycb Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 I'll be sad to say goodbye to my J223 (not really), but wow, I made just one candle with KY125 and it was so long & clean burning I was amazed. I didn't let the candle cure for a week, I'm just too impatient. BUT, I think I'm sold!Now me, I don't mind the tops...but should I be looking at adding beeswax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lindsaycb Posted January 4, 2006 Author Share Posted January 4, 2006 Oh and I had some more questions...do you let it cure before testing the wick? Or do you burn first to see if you have it wicked correctly, THEN later let it cure to see how the throw is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicky_CO Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 Well for me I wait for wick testing just like the scent throw mainly because I have had candles that the wick was good the next day but after the candle cured out the wick was not right. Soy as it ages get harder not like palm but it does get harder but and here is a big but the wicking can go either way some times it to big some times to small but it was close to perfect the day after making it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lindsaycb Posted January 4, 2006 Author Share Posted January 4, 2006 well crap...that's not what I wanted to hear. So I really need to wait a full week? Is that the standard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicky_CO Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 Truthfully I do my first test at 3 days then again at a week then again in 2 weeks. That usually give me a good range of what will happen in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniedb Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 Welcome to the dark side, mwuhahahahahahah! *sigh*Okay, so anyway....I may be the oddball, but I only wait about 24 hours after my candles cool to test...I almost always do a later run (after about a week of curing) to make sure they still burn correctly after sitting, but for basic wick/container stuff, I pour one day, light 'em up the next.B/w is totally a personal choice. I add it at 2-3% (depending on the weather), and I really like how it makes my tops look. Much smoother, and it also hardens the tops very nicely. That way, when people pop the tops to take a sniff, if they touch the wax, there's no fingerprint or chance that the tops will be disturbed. I think it makes it look much cleaner than if I use the EZ Soy alone, but some waxes have a great look without the b/w. B/w also has a higher mp than my soy, so it tends to extend the burn a little, it's a negligable amount, but I notice it. It's really all about personal taste. If you do test without b/w, then decide to add it later, you shouldn't have to change your wick, anything 3% and under shouldn't affect the wick size.Welcome to the world of veg wax again! I hope you find much success and are glad you're venturing into something new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maryann Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 I didn't read Danielle's post totally so hopefully I won't repeat anything. I didn't know that the wax got harder the longer it sat (I never heard of that either), is that only for certain blends? I use 100% soy w/ 2% bw. It does make your wax harder and helps w/ scent throw. I test the wicks as soon as I have a chance, sometimes 8 hrs, sometimes 8 days. For the throw the longer it sits the stronger it gets in soy so IMO its a personal thing when checking the wick... BUT now that Vicky says the wax gets harder the longer it sits I'm wondering .. because that'll change the wick testing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicky_CO Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 The change is not huge what I have notices is I get the perfect wicking but say six months later I burn a candle from that batch I made 6 months ago I will notice hang up or or it get to deep of a melt pool not like it was when I first made and burn the test. I randomly pick candles out of my store and burn them sometimes the candle was made 2 weeks ago sometime a few month ago. So I am seeing things a little different than when I was doing it out of my home and never had any more than 1 or 2 month worth of stock on hand. When I first notice it I started looking at reason why one of the things I notices was the older candles seem harder or would get that powdery puffy look. The powdery puffy and growing I attributed to FOs. So I made some unscented candle and let them sit checking them about every 2 week and compared them to ones I just made and yes they where slightly hard.The only time I think this will come in to play is when you wicking is just barely there say you are using a wick that just barely get a full melt pool might over time leave hang ups. If you are wicking on the hot side it could actually help your candles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shannon WY Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 I've noticed that same thing- the soy actually gets harder the longer it sits and sometimes the wicking needs to be changed. I made some soy candles scented with cinnamon bun, did my usual testing starting the day after I made them and thought the wick was perfect. I made up some jars and a friend of mine bought one. She mentioned that the wick was drowning out. I had a few of the candles from the same batch sitting around so decided to test one and found the same thing happening. It turns out I needed to wick up on that FO. So now I'm going through various jars burning one here and there just to be sure the wicking is right.:undecided Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lindsaycb Posted January 4, 2006 Author Share Posted January 4, 2006 Okay, this is so cool! Thanks everyone!Now do you notice a difference in cleaning out your jars with beeswax added in there?I was just floored how clean my jar was when I soaped it up. VIOLA, like nothing has ever been in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dixylight Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Okay, this is so cool! Thanks everyone!Now do you notice a difference in cleaning out your jars with beeswax added in there?I was just floored how clean my jar was when I soaped it up. VIOLA, like nothing has ever been in there.I use about 2% b/w and do need to use hotter water and a bit more soap because of the higher melt point of the b/w. Not a big deal tho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
momscandles Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 For me the heat gun was the best invention since sliced bread. If you use 100 % soy just zap the top and go on about your merry way.The soy is soo much easier to clean up after than parrafin. I use both so I am not bashing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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