Luanne Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Here's my first pour. 12 oz. status jar.7 oz. Peaches & Cream Fragrance1 drop Peach Liquid DyeFilled with wax until scale said 10 oz. (needs to be filled a pinch higher)Melted wax (GB464) to 185. Mixed fragrance and color in pouring pot, then added wax. Let cool to 135 and poured.Question #1. Why after about 1-2 minutes, did I get a cream colored rim along the bottom of the jar? (I hope the picture attached).Question #2. How can I cut down on liquid dye if I'm only doing 1 drop?The whole house smells like Peaches and Cream (a little too much). I would cut back on the fragrance, but I'll wait till the candle cures and see after that.Thanks.Luanne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaithfulScenter Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 I don't think you need to put any more in them, you don't want to fill it to the top. The color will look different when the wax sets, I think that may be what is going on with the bottom of the jar, the wax is lightens up quite a bit when it hardens, and soy always has lighter colors than paraffin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luanne Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 The color is quickly improving. I hope it keeps going a little more. There is still the issue of the bottom of the jar, but it's only a little over an hour since it was poured, so I'll see how it looks in the morning. Cure time??? A couple days, a week???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsbychris Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 A two week cure will give it it's best scent throw. But not everyone can wait that long. Congrats on your first pour!! Did you go to the class in Phillie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luanne Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 Chris - I did. I forgot how far Quakertown can be. (Sometimes I forget I don't live in Philly anymore.) Normally about 2 hour drive, give or take, turned into 3 with the traffic!! I think Doylestown is easier to get to. It took me since last Friday to bite the bullet and pour - lol. For somebody who never melted wax before (me), I thought it was a good beginning. I'll try to wait 2 weeks before I light it.Luanne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Did the wax go into the thick base at the bottom of jar? My status jars have a thick glass base at the bottom that is solid. Maybe I'm seeing something incorrectly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luanne Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 When I feel inside the jar, there is a wider opening (lip) then the jar narrows up, so I'm going to say yes, it is in the thick base at the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luanne Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 I just check different status jars I bought at Dollar Tree and they are solid inside - the lip is outside only. The one I used tonight is not a solid bottom, it has the inside lip opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 I'm thinking that's a defective jar. Did you buy all at the DT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luanne Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 The one in the picture is from Candles & Supplies in Quakertown, PA. The DT ones are solid on the inside. The C&S ones are not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 I'd contact them to see if that's a defect & get a replacement case if possible. Unless they make them that way, weird looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OldGlory Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Luanne, it looks fine to me. I think what you are seeing is the wax cooling faster at the base because of the glass around it. It takes a while for 464 to cool/harden and it lightens up as it cools. A LOT! Think of the color of the wax flakes and adding a bit of color to the flakes, and that is what it looks like when it is dry. It's only transparent while it's hot.Re: how do you get less than one drop of color? When I have a color that has to be light, I buy a separate bottle with an eye dropper, and add drops of soybean oil (grocery store soybean oil is fine) and color. I put in whatever ratio I want (dye:soybean oil) and that's how I get a consistent color from one batch to another. You don't want to make a lot of it because it will have a shelf life of 6 months or less, but I keep detailed records of the ratio I used so I can recreate it later. Some people will dip a toothpick into the dye and then stir it in to the melted way to get a lighter color, but I have found it inconsistent.Congrats on your first of many, many candles! There's a steep learning curve ahead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luanne Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 Thanks OldGlory. I'm pretty proud of my first pour. I took a picture this morning and the color is good. I can't get the picture to upload here at work. I'll do it from home. I did see some frosting around the sides and the wax is pulling away slightly on the sides. The top looks great, nice and smooth. Now the hard part is waiting for it to cure. Do I have to - lol? It sure is a learning curve. Hope my CD12 works the way it's supposed to.Luanne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Were you able to find out if C&S intended for the jars to be open in the base or whether the jars are defective? Which jar type do you like better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luanne Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 ChandlerWicks - I'm at work and haven't called them. Both my boxes from them are the same. One box had lids with the jars, the other didn't. Then they sent the wrong lids. They finally got that figured out and I'm waiting for them to arrive. Where do you get your jars? The color looked much better this morning - much more blended. I'll post a picture this afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 I bought 40 status jars for testers (last forever) at DT. 4 are from EAP Innovations also & none allowed wax to seep into base. Maybe they intended for the wax to go down into base. It might be neat looking if you could put a different color at the bottom! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luanne Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 Here's the latest picture. The color evened out great (picture doesn't do it justice). My only issue now is the wax pulling away from the side of the jar and the frosting, which I think are more like air bubbles from the wax pulling away. I'm going to try heating my jar for my next pour. Chandlerwicks - I think the jar is supposed to be that way - at least the ones from C&S, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Color is very pretty! Have fun with your testing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OldGlory Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 I have found that certain FOs will encourage frosting on the sides while others don't. Heating the jar will probably not help. And whatever you do, do NOT heat the sides after it's cooled or you will get frosting. Guess who learned that lesson the hard way, lol.Blasted learning curve! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeanie353 Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Hi Louanne and welcome to the addiction Your candle looks great.I took a double take on your jar though 'cause all the Status/Prestige I've bought also have a solid bottom. It brings to light something for those of us who use that type jar to be careful of if purchasing from a different supplier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luanne Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 Thanks Jeanie. I had no idea status jars could be different. I've now learned. Maybe that's why C&S has them on sale this weekend for 50% off. I'm also thinking that maybe that's why the wax is pulling away from the side - it was settling into the bottom. I may try pouring slightly cooler - instead of at 135, maybe 125 - 130. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaczor Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 ...And whatever you do, do NOT heat the sides after it's cooled or you will get frosting.Why we shouldn't heat the sides after cooled ?? We do it in that way, and it help us to achieve smooth look. Why it's wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeanie353 Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Thanks Jeanie. I had no idea status jars could be different. I've now learned. Maybe that's why C&S has them on sale this weekend for 50% off. I'm also thinking that maybe that's why the wax is pulling away from the side - it was settling into the bottom. I may try pouring slightly cooler - instead of at 135, maybe 125 - 130.Ya, I really don't know but thought the same as Chandler did. What is wrong with the jar? lol Prior to that, I didn't know they were different either.I can tell you Peak Prestige (that are like Status) and DT Status do have solid glass on that bottom ledge of the jar, and the wax does not go in there.Sure, play around with your pour temps to see if that helps. Pour temp can make a huge difference in how candles turn out, just not sure if that is what is going on by you or if it is the jar.I've done heat gunning on the jar sides, using 415 soy, without any frosting issues but can't help with 464. I have the gun about 4"-6" away from the jar and keep it moving. HTH and GL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OldGlory Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Kaczor, are you using 464 wax? We are talking specifically about this wax. Also, I use liquid dyes. Big difference in a glass jar if you are using this wax, liquid dyes, and heat gunning the sides. Luanne, I pour this wax cooler and I temper the wax. I allow the wax to cool to the point that it looks like a slushy, and it is generally pretty grainy. I use metal pour pots, and put the pour pot on a stove burner and heat slowly, stirring, until it is smooth again but still opaque (not the transparent quality of hot wax). Then I allow it to cool again. A number of people have suggested pouring at 140 or 145, but that doesn't give me the smoothness I'm trying to acheive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeanie353 Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Kaczor, are you using 464 wax? We are talking specifically about this wax.Hmmm...I would think 464 would be less prone to frosting due to the additives. I did use it at one time along with 444 but opted to go with 415 for better HT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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